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blueovalz last won the day on September 16 2009

blueovalz had the most liked content!

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About blueovalz

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    HybridZ Supporter
  • Birthday 10/04/1956

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  • Location
    Little Rock, Arkansas
  • Interests
    Tesla Coils and CanAm cars.

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  1. An adjustment screw at the top (through the upper portion of the adapter toward the shock) would be nice as a back-stop to the camber adjustment. Screw in, less camber; screw out, more, provided only the upper bolt holes are slotted. The corner weight will always ensure the screw stops prevent any slippage if the two bolts fail hold properly, and adjustment screw's threads will provide some degree of vernier adjustment. I like the idea. A question I have is how much additional shear will this add to the strut (shock) rod with the lateral displacement from a more ideal "in-line" compression/rebound force? In other words, the further the shock centerline is moved toward the housing pivot point (spindle pin centerline), the more rotational force that is introduced to the assembly when viewed from a fore/aft viewpoint. Ideally, the shock centerline should be where the compression/rebound forces are perfectly aligned (which is not even achieved with the OEM housing). Moving the strut centerline inboard decreases the balance of the rotational forces of the wheel "pushing" up on the outboard end of the housing, and the weight of the car pushing down in the outboard end of the housing, all of which are centered around the spindle pin (whose location relative to these two forces can be very important). With both forces on the same side or relatively close to each other compared to the spindle pin, this is somewhat aligned. The further they are separated, especially with the pin in close vicinity, the more rotational force (or lack of force alignment) that is introduced. Is it insignificant? Is it significant? Would this impact the wear-rate of the shock? I don't know, but this is one reason why manufacturers push the limit of clearance between the shock (or strut), and the wheel (or tire) to the very minimum.
  2. It's been years since I've posted here, but for the sake of someone else looking for a DIY project for a cheap V8 ITB set-up, check out the LS1 Tech page in which I fabricated a set-up using a highly modified aftermarket intake, some Chrysler LHS throttle bodies (Holley 48MM), and some home fabrication and welding. Using the Holly HP EFI system, the total cost of getting it up and running (mechanical and electronic) was about $2400 for everything. Again, a lot of home-made stuff, but nothing that a drill press, and common sense couldn't handle. The photos are a bit dated, but nothing has changed other than the system runs very well (took awhile for this old-school carb man to tune with a computer). http://ls1tech.com/forums/fueling-injection/1269857-poor-mans-ls1-itb-fab-up.html Also, my signature still works, so anybody interested in viewing the ITB set-up for a DIY'er, you can view the documentation photos (lower link), but look under the album called Manta ITBs instead of the Z-car albums Terry
  3. It was on there about three years ago, but I found a private buyer for the car later.


  4. I think I saw this car on ebay once, or one very similar

  5. These are the only ones I have, and think only one was from the orignal thread. Terry
  6. This is in my opinion (not impartial by any means) the best collection of Z's in one place. Not only Coffey's Z, but the Z-Wolf and the BlueOvalZ are at the very end of this row. It's a once a year "garage party" in Florida. Here are a couple from last year. And then, the Primadona Z was around somewhere in that location as well.
  7. This is similar work to what I had done to mine prior to putting it back on the street. In race trim, with race rubber and wheels, and the LS, I'd say 2150. I've heard of lighter, but cannot fathom how being my Z's exterior was 90% fiberglass, no side windows, fiberglass door skins only, Lexan rear window, and minimal wiring and lighting. I did have large brakes which added weight. My LS2 was 345 lbs on the pallet, and just at 400 lbs fully dressed.
  8. Koni inserts, new, never been mounted. Now with that said, I used one to deterimine how much of the tube must be removed to provide a proper fit with a shortened strut. Most folks know that these will fit any S30 tube diameter BUT the 240 will be a snug fit. So much so, I had to file the raised portion of the identification stampings on the bottom of the strut (see photo) in order to slide the insert into the tube. Again, this is the norm for a 240 tube. Excellent shape, new in fact. $550 for all four.
  9. I'm considering the MEFI system. I was told by a fairly knowledgeable person who travels all over the county tuning LS motors that it is a good stand-alone for my application (ITBs) because it is a true speed density ECU versus the OEM LS module.
  10. has not set their status

  11. Thanks for the support guys, it is very heartening. Berry provided some data to create the graph and explanation shown at the link below (post #18 of the string). http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/showthread.php?p=313150 Roger's explanation of the results is one that has failed to be addressed by anybody associated with this contest, yet such a drastic increase in such a short window is extremely impractical unless manipulation was involved. Overall, I feel bad for everyone that supported and voted for any and all of the 5 candidates because the lack of any security in the poll (choice of cheapest polling product) allowed manipulation by simply removing the cookies, and then voting...click...click...click...over and over again. All that effort and no validity. We tried to prompt discussion on the Reader's Choice blog of the voting situation, but surprisingly most responses addressed personal car issues with no concern over the perceived ballot stuffing. Yes, I am a bit naive in that my expectations of our automotive brethren is fairly high (re-setting those expectations now) in that I would assume the big picture is ultimately more important than whether 'my wheels deserve to be in the poll instead of the ricer wheels' type of comments made.
  12. Thanks guys. Jon, you are so right. I never set out to create a car that meets other's approval; it just sort of turned out that a lot of folks like the lines and work. Anyway, everyone's support is again greatly appreciated and humbling. Merry Christmas! Terry
  13. There should be very little fore/aft movement of the differential (inertia from braking or accerlation). The differential will twist on a longitutinal axis, and/or a lateral axis as the result of torque forces though, but this does not translate into fore/aft movement.
  14. Everythings fine. Just want to stop building for a while and enjoy, so I'm putting my all into this one until finished. Got the axles today, dry sump is headed this way, and both oil coolers arrived today as well. So I should be busy for a while.
  15. Jon, The build is located on the same site a the "BlueOvalZ photo documentation" link in my signature. Terry
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