RebekahsZ Posted August 26, 2012 Author Share Posted August 26, 2012 OK. The hammer, dremmel and cutoff saw continue to be my most valuable tools since I did this motor swap. Got busy and made an inspection/service/vetilation window in the bellhousing. Started with filthy fluid, starting this test with clean fluid after yesterday's work. Based on the advice of a T56 drag racer on LS1tech I decided to let the bellhousing breath a little. I removed the dust covers behind the starter and oil filter and cut (2) 2X3 holes in the bellhousing. Will it effect strength?-time will tell, nothing ventured nothing gained. The front hole lets me see the flywheel, pressure plate and clutch disc; the rear hole lets me see the throwout bearing and the hydraulic lines. First of all, no leaks. The pastic dust covers near the flywall side were filthy. I put just a pinch of the clutch dust in a bit of clean hydraulic fluid an perfectly reproduced the gunk I keep getting in my master cylinder reservoir. Look at the picture that shows one of those covers and the pieces of aluminum I cut out-the aluminum at the bottom of the bell was totally clean (you could eat off it). Found that weird. However, the throwout bearing sleeve (visible only when my daughter pressed the clutch pedal) was packed with clutch dust. There is a little recess at the base of the sleeve that may act as a funnel for the collection of the dust. If I wind up replacing my throwout bearing, I will modify it to remove the recess and let the dust blow elsewhere. Used compressed air and brake cleaner solvent to clean things as much as possible - my garage is a mess and I looked like a tar baby when I was finished. Swapped my 1" Tilton series 75 master for a 7/8" 74 series in order to gain the extra mounting bosses to attach a firewall brace to. That is next week's project. Took a lot of bleeding, using a combination of gravity, mighty vac and old-school bleeding to get a great feeling pedal. I did need to extend the adjustment rod out a long way. But it feels great. With the old series 75 1" master, the pedal stroke was very firm and at the bottom of the travel, the pedal was really easy to press. With the new master, the resistance is constant from top to bottom, just like my S10 pickup. Started car on jackstands and clutch fully engages with no rear wheel rotation. Next issue is about 3/8" of firewall flex, thought the smaller master bore might decrease that, but it didn't. I may eventually have to address the fact that the clevis hole in the clutch pedal has ovalized due to wear. Gonna due a little rear suspension work and try to test drive before the day is done. Then we'll see if I can keep clean fluid and stop having shift refusals. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RebekahsZ Posted August 27, 2012 Author Share Posted August 27, 2012 No driving yet, just moving around the driveway. Boy, the pedal throw is SO LONG after getting used to the short stroke that the 1" master cylinder allowed. Gonna drive it to work tomorrow. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RebekahsZ Posted August 29, 2012 Author Share Posted August 29, 2012 (edited) Drove car to work yesterday (6 miles round trip) and to fabricator last night; came back tonight (20 miles round trip). Fluid in master cylinder already turning black again. Firewall/master cylinder/inner fender brace completed; pedal feels 100% better, clutch is DEFINITELY disengaging in driveway. This was a great modification. However, on ride back from fabricator's shop poor clutch disengagement at high power is unimproved; drives great when loafing around. I have attached pictures of the darkened fluid in the master cylinder to contrast its color against the fluid I heated in a skillet: the problem isn't heat, it is clutch dust (the metalic aspect of the contaminant is really obvious tonight). Time to get inside the bellhousing (which one reply told me way back last week). I would go to an LS7 kit, but I want to get away from the GM throwout bearing. Best I can tell, my options for an alternate throwout bearing are: Tilton, Quartermaster, and McLeod. Tilton is out this time because they don't have a kit; I would have to be really smart about putting together all the other components of the system. That leaves Quartemaster and McLeod. Posting new thread to get suggestions from the forum. Want to get parts on order ASAP and will pay expedite shipping charges. Edited August 29, 2012 by RebekahsZ Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wfritts911 Posted August 30, 2012 Share Posted August 30, 2012 Hmm my clutch fluid doesn't get black that fast(If it even gets black, I never really paid to much attention to it, it does get dirty though). I will say the T56 is known for not being a good shifting transmission, they are tough as nails, but shift kinda shitty. I got my slave cylinder from Monster and it seems fine, clutch fluid gets dirty, but I don't think it really effects the operation of the clutch. Is your clutch line too close to your exhaust maybe? If its getting too hot it will definitely make your clutch disengage poorly. I'm not saying the heat is making your clutch fluid turn black, but if its getting to hot, it will have negative effects on your shifting ability. Thats a neat idea for the brace though, I haven't noticed any ill effects of mine, but I could see the firewall flexing. -Will Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RebekahsZ Posted August 30, 2012 Author Share Posted August 30, 2012 (edited) While I'm waiting on parts...What are the chances that changing tranny lubricant will improve up-shifting? I'm running Advance Auto Dextron III. Thinking about trying some GM synchromesh... Found this thread in a jaguar forum (see picture) sounds familiar-wondering now if this is what I'll find when I tear down: "Well, now I'm experiencing what seems like synchro bearing failure, and I'm wondering if that "clunk" wasn't just a precursor to what I'm dealing with now. The car has 92000 miles on it. The transmission will shift into every gear just fine while standing still. If I accelerate very gradually and shift at low rpms, the shifter will drop into place from gear to gear fairly quickly - just about normally - with just a little extra pressure from my shifting hand. As I increase the rpm of the shift points, I need to increase the pressure on the shifter or have a great deal more patience for the shifter to drop into place. That effect starts at about 3000 rpm. Much above 4000 rpm, it wont shift at all. Exuberant acceleration, like on a highway acceleration lane, "just ain't happenin'." Edited August 30, 2012 by RebekahsZ Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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