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wfritts911

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Everything posted by wfritts911

  1. Quick update as far as usage of the kit. DeMeanZ in Houston(Not sure if he is on here or not) put my kit through a 8.9 1/4" mile with a 1.3 sixty foot. In a 280Z powered by a twin turbo LS motor with a powerglide and trans brake. Not sure how many passes he has on it now, but he has worked his way down to 8s, so I'm sure its decent bit. He did end up going with the fancy stub axles from DSS, and he has 300M axles and quality CV joints, not the cheap EMPI ones listed in my parts list. He never tried the cheaper components though, so I can't say how well the stuff in my list holds up, but as far
  2. I still plan on making more kits. Hopefully pretty soon, been crazy busy as usual, 95 hour week last week. Bramagedained, huge props to you for the pictures and how to! Sorry for the issues with the spare tire well, my cars was cut out already when I got it, so I never realized it was so close.JustAFantaZ, I sent a PM back to you, you can convert to cobra brakes by cutting off the mounting ears for the caliper on your current upright, and just bolting on the cobra caliper bracket. It bolts on with the same bolts as the hub, so all you have to do is lose the wilwood caliper mounts. Thanks
  3. Can't remember off the top of my head, will have too look when I get home today. I think its something like 7 degrees. The only downside to adjusting the camber with my upright is you will push the wheel closer/farther away from the upright. This is generally ok, but can be troublesome if your wheels are pretty close to your coil-overs. trying to add negative camber could push the wheel/tire into the strut. -Will
  4. Well after a long overdue hibernation from me, I finally have the ball rolling on 10 more sets of these. Placed an order with a laser shop on Monday. I have made a new thread in the Vendor section to deal with the purchasing side of things and will leave this for the tech side of things. http://forums.hybridz.org/topic/121613-s30-ultimate-88-irs-swap-kit/ On another note, how is everything going? Anyone driving on their setups yet? I know Texis300 finally got his car going and has been putting some miles on his. Mike? What about you? I do apologize for the stripped bolt, I might tr
  5. At work so I'll make it short. If the F150 outer CV axles end up being a problem. You can get 930 Micro Stubs that you can bolt a porsche 930 CV joint to which fit the Intrepid hubs. And I'm sure those come in chromoly. I just didn't go that route cause the stubs are roughly $160 each plus 2 more 930 CV joints need bought. So it ends up being a couple hundred bucks higher than using the F150 stuff. But there are stronger/high quality parts than the F150 CV joints if those become an issue, but I don't forsee that happening. Here is the first link I found of the microstub. Sure you can get
  6. So how does your control arm length center to center of the heims/bushings compare to a stock arm? Because myself and Sean(Texis300) have both successfully ran the setup with stock A-arms and the axles in the list(16.25" long). Are the aftermarket controls arms shorter than the stock arms? This doesn't make sense to me as that would add positive camber to cars. I'm not understanding how aftermarket controls arms effect the axle length? If they are adjusted the same length as stock then it shouldn't matter if they are aftermarket or stock. Mike, is the camber adjustment where the strut bolts to
  7. I'm at work now so I can't get a full reply in, just wanted to let y'all know I see these replys and will have a better response either on lunch or after work. Something doesn't seem right unless aftermarket control arms are significantly shorter than stock arms(Which doesn't make sense to me). -Will
  8. Mike, they will come with the F150 CV axles you buy, at least they did with mine. I ordered the cheapest F150 axles that Rockauto sells and they came with the nuts...where did you get yours from? -Will
  9. Not taken as bitching Mike, you shouldn't have been the one to use a dial caliper to measure the holes, I should have checked them after powder coating but I didn't. It's my fault and a do appreciate you letting everyone else know hopefully before they ended up in the same situation. As far as the cobra calipers go, BLKMGK if you have a cobra caliper/bracket you are willing to send me, I will be more than happy to see what I can do. Or if you can get true Cobra calipers from parts stores I can pick one up, measure it, then return it. Shoot me a PM if you are interested or know if I can p
  10. Well just looked for photos and apparently I quit taking pictures after getting the snap ring off the inner CV joint. I thought I took a lot, but apparently the greasy hands made me quit after I got in too deep. The process goes like this: Take the complete F150 front CV axle and remove all (4) CV Boot clamps. You can just cut them off as they are pretty much impossible to remove and reuse. Take care not to cut the OUTER CV Boot(The end with splines). Go ahead and remove the INNER CV housing(The flanged part). It should slide all the way off once the boot comes off of it. This part is t
  11. Finally looked at your thread over here. PM/email me what the new spindle bolts cost you from AZC and I'll refund it for the troubles, the least I can do for making you waste 4+ hours fixing my mistake. Let me know if there is anything else I can do. -Will
  12. Mike has brought up that he ended up having to remove all of the powder coat on the Upright-Strut Tube connection. There is a good chance y'all will have to do the same. I knew it would be tight but didn't think it would be this tight. When I welded them up I didn't account for the powder coat thickness like I should have. If you have any questions/concerns regarding this issue shoot me a PM. Mike also let me know that he had to clean up the spindle bolt bore on the upright to remove the powder coating to get the bolt to go through. I didn't even think about the powder coat getting in th
  13. Mike/Sean, My brake setup that is on Sean's car works so good it seems to have stopped his build completely...Hard to say how it will hold up on the street/track since all they have seen is the shop floor hehe. -Will
  14. Good deal, sorry I didn't get better instructions to y'all before you got the kits. I have attached some PDF's that show the complicated parts and hope this gives those of you who haven't installed anything yet some direction. Let me know if anything else is still confusing. Two finals Thursday plus a truckload of other things which need done. Busy Busy Busy. Also because I feel like bragging a little bit, here is my latest "creation"...my 280Z lost its motor/trans to this car. Take special note of the orange sticker hehe. Finally got it running last week and still haven't ha
  15. Soon enough. Gotta finish finals man, then I'll churn out some more sets.
  16. I haven't re-read that thread, but I believe it is wrong. I ordered the gland nuts for this swapping thinking they would be the same as the stock 280Z tubes(M51x1.5) but that is not the case. The stock 280Z tubes are M52x1.5 . This swap uses M51x1.5 and couldn't go any bigger because these tubes are 2.125OD vs the 280Z's 2.170 OD. You will need new gland nuts Mike, sorry bud.
  17. Ok guys, I've been meaning to get something together as far as how everything goes together but haven't had a chance. Was going to do it tonight but my jump drive with all my models on it is up at work. So here goes this: The mustache bar is not symmetrical side to side and the mustache bar mounts have an angle cut in them. The mustache bar angles DOWN towards the front of the car. This is because the explorer rear cover has slanted bolt holes. The diff mount holes are biased CLOSER to the drivers side of the car. There are 1/2 thick aluminum spacers between the mustache bar and the dif
  18. Well it isn't going to rust like the carbon so I opted not to coat it. But I didn't realize sand blasting would give it the texture look like it did, it really needed media blasted of some sort instead of sand. But I think the texture look it got turned out looking pretty decent. Do you think it would have been better to just coat it? I was half and half on coating vs not coating. -Will
  19. Well I know a couple people have got the parts in as of now, and the rest will probably get them tomorrow. Pete280Z has expressed some issues with my packaging that led to the paint getting scratched up pretty good on most of the parts. Maybe his was a fluke, maybe I just have sorry packaging skills, but I just want to let everyone else know to check everything over good and let me know if there are any issues that you see. I'll be more than happy to fix any issues you have with any parts. So if y'all can just post up on here if all your parts look fine or if they were damaged during shipping.
  20. Everything has been shipped! Finally! Now I've got to run off to school to work on a group project, so pictures will have to wait a bit longer. Check your PMs guys. -Will
  21. Call Koni-NA direct. That's how I got them. Unfortunately they are an oddball size that they might have to get sent over from Holland, but they fit the strut tube well. That was the cheapest and easiest place to get them. Hope the lead time on those doesn't put anyone in a bind as I think its 2 weeks if you airmail them. I should have let y'all know sooner to make sure you got them ordered in the beginning. Shipping out boxes today finally, got killed with school last week. I PM'd a few of you because I never got shipping information so please reply to those PMs ASAP. I will post s
  22. Well everything was supposed to be done at the powder coater Wednesday but I ended up working late trying to finish up some last minute projects before thanksgiving so I wasn't able to pick everything up Wednesday. And now of course they were closed yesterday and today so I will be picking everything up Monday and hopefully shipping out Monday or Tuesday. Sorry for the delays guys, the holiday got in the way. -Will
  23. I will round my pictures up and post up a more detailed How To in the next couple days, but the short version. Remove Boots, Inner CV slides right out of the stub, nothing holds it in. Snap ring removes the actually rollers from the shaft. Remove both boots being careful not to damage the outer boot as it will be reused. Now you have the outer CV and the shaft. Use a cutoff wheel or stick it in a chop saw and cut the axle shaft as close to the CV as you can, being careful not to let the blade walk into the actual CV This allows you to spin the CV "star" around enough until the balls fal
  24. PM's are sent with totals for everyone. Now back to finishing up my homework... -Will
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