JSM Posted August 30, 2012 Share Posted August 30, 2012 (edited) So From everything I've read I think I like this diagram the best: http://www.4moores.com/280z/files/ls1wiringNEW.pdf Anyway, where is C102 at? Looking at this http://lt1swap.com/stock_ls1.jpg it's not listed. I used this link here http://lt1swap.com/99-02_vortec_pcm.htm and then plugs from the 2000 here http://lt1swap.com/ls1_wiring_harness/2000_connectors.htm to make this http://i636.photobucket.com/albums/uu85/jeffreysm/LS1_Wire2.jpg Now It might not be needed but what's confussing me now is 1020? What connector on the LS1 harness does that get power? I only found this by google: http://ls1tech.com/forums/ls1-domestic-forums/t-941701.html http://www.ls2.com/boggs/a4/autotransinlineharness.htm Also, why two Orange connectors? Both show 440 but with different pins. I'm assuming the one wire connects to both? Edited August 30, 2012 by JSM Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wfritts911 Posted August 30, 2012 Share Posted August 30, 2012 That wiring diagram you posted first is the one I used when I first wired my car up, it works well. C102 is the purple starter wire, It is a single wire connector. You don't have to use it, its just the wiring that would go from your ign switch to the starter solenoid to tell it when to start. I just ran my own wire from the stock Z starter wire to the starter. As for the multiple orange wires, there is only one that actually goes to a connector to get BAT power, there are however multiple ones running through the engine wiring harness, they are all pigtailed together somewhere in the heep of wires. Don't over think the wiring, its literally as simple as that diagram makes it out to be. Power to 6 wires(Only techinically need 5, one of those is for some emissions crap(Smog pump I think, or the Evap solenoid). Disable the vats, ground everything, and give 12v to the starter and it will start right up. -Will Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JSM Posted August 30, 2012 Author Share Posted August 30, 2012 (edited) -Will Thanks! Did you end up using all the guages from the PCM to control stock gauges? I was going to not use the PCM to control the fans or guages except for the tach. Edited August 30, 2012 by JSM Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JSM Posted August 30, 2012 Author Share Posted August 30, 2012 I just realized even though I read it that diagram is specific to the 98. Will, was your's a 98? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wfritts911 Posted August 30, 2012 Share Posted August 30, 2012 Neither the oil pressure or the water temp run through the PCM on the 98. I know the water temp goes to the PCM on the 99+, not sure about the oil pressure. I did use the PCM's output for the speedo and tach though, it was easier than gutting the wire out of the stock harness and running it straight from the speed sensor to the gauge. The LS1 outputs a 4 cyl tach signal so I just set my gauge to that and it works great. I eventually plan on wiring my fans into the PCM with a master on override switch so I can leave them going while the car is off, but for now they are just on a switch -Will Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ktm Posted August 31, 2012 Share Posted August 31, 2012 Neither the oil pressure or the water temp run through the PCM on the 98. I know the water temp goes to the PCM on the 99+, not sure about the oil pressure. I did use the PCM's output for the speedo and tach though, it was easier than gutting the wire out of the stock harness and running it straight from the speed sensor to the gauge. The LS1 outputs a 4 cyl tach signal so I just set my gauge to that and it works great. I eventually plan on wiring my fans into the PCM with a master on override switch so I can leave them going while the car is off, but for now they are just on a switch -Will I use the PCM to control my fan, speedo and tach. I use Speedhut gauges so they have their own sensors that run to the gauges. I do not know about the 99s, but I do recall on the 98s that you need a resistor at the alternator field wire to drop the voltage or else you'll fry it if you give it a full 12 volts. http://ls1tech.com/forums/conversions-hybrids/1408951-98-ls1-wiring-harness-alternator-exciter-wire-what-should-voltage.html Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wfritts911 Posted August 31, 2012 Share Posted August 31, 2012 Ya mine was a 98. And yes on the 98s the alternator wire goes to the chassis wiring harness, not the PCM like the 99+. If you don't wire in a resistor(The Z fasten seatbelt bulb also works if your in a pinch an hour from home on your maiden voyage back to college in your new LS1 swapped Z, ask me how I know). Ya thats the wiring diagram I used, so the 99s are probably a little different. -Will Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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