josh817 Posted October 16, 2012 Share Posted October 16, 2012 (edited) The pistons never came off of the rods and notches in the pistons are facing the front. Do the # marks on the rod caps go on the same side as the rod I presume. i.e. 123456 are stacked with each corresponding number when looking at the side of the complete rod and cap Yes sir, keep them to their corresponding rods. Mark them on your own if you have to in case if there are weird mix-matches of numbers. I remember building a motor that was previously opened, didn't pay attention to the fact that whoever had been in there before me marked the rods differently, and had them line bored (that's the only way you can get away with mix matching that I know of). I put her back together, 1 with 1, 2 with 2. Everything went together swell, she was turning over fine. Ran for a few miles with good oil pressure, super strong, and then it just locked up. It had spun a rod bearing to the point where one shell OVERLAPPED the other shell and just binded the entire thing and when I say bind I mean like.... Pulling away from a stop light and all of a sudden the wheel lock, doing 30MPH in 4th gear. Since I had no idea what numbers were with what when I took her apart, I didn't know how to fix the situation other than to get new rods. So anyway long story short, the way it came out is the way it should go back in. And if I remember correctly, the notches Lazeum speaks of will be both on the same side, as in, there is a notch on the rod, and a notch on the cap, when you put the two together, have them on the same side, not opposite sides. I'm actually worrying about my truck motor right now, with which side I had installed those oil squirters on the rods! I always forget or take it for granted that my machine shop pressed the pistons on so the front of the piston faces the proper direction on the rod! Makes me nervous now. I'm not sure what the symptoms of a backwards rod would be. According to Haynes: And if you were wondering what side is the "right" side of the motor like I was, this is from the "Modify Your Nissan/Datsun" book: It also made a good point to replace the rod bolts if you're using stock rods/bolts. ARP is pretty cheap insurance if you like revving her up. Edited October 16, 2012 by josh817 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
duragg Posted October 16, 2012 Share Posted October 16, 2012 As a self-proclaimed and proud dickbag I can assure you that I bent the nails installing those heartless f-ing side seals I forced them to comply with my vision of "engine done finally" Only leaks a little which is nice. I resent those side seals personally. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ben's Z Posted October 16, 2012 Author Share Posted October 16, 2012 Ah yes those nails. Having to pull all the cap to put my bearings in the right spots, they go in quite nicely the second time around! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
duragg Posted October 16, 2012 Share Posted October 16, 2012 I truly hated that part of my build and I will wait until the motor finally grenades before fixing properly. Did you use a new front pulley? MSA has a decent deal on one, but needs the ID honed a bit to fit properly. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ben's Z Posted October 17, 2012 Author Share Posted October 17, 2012 No I am taking the one off of my NA motor and using that. I truly hated that part of my build and I will wait until the motor finally grenades before fixing properly. Did you use a new front pulley? MSA has a decent deal on one, but needs the ID honed a bit to fit properly. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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