vg30 question (but non Z related)

[jeromio]

Well, here's my update.

 

I went there. I wanted to try and compose myself in the parking lot before I went in, but it's cold and snowing here and the beater Honda has no heat. So, I went in at about 10am, talked to the Service Manager. He got the actual mechanic.

 

The mechanic sticks to his story - although it clearly has huge holes in it and he's not clever enough to lie straight out. He admits to using that pry bar on the pully. What a dumbass! What the hell does he think those threaded holes on the pully are for? A CRANK PULLER!!! Ugh.

 

So, at least he admits to that. But, he maintains that once the bolt came out, the crank shaft flopped over. He says that the bolt ws what was holding the broken part together. Hrmmm, but then you say you used this prybar - what for if the whole assembly was "already broken"? Riiiiight. What about that sheetmetal timing cover that's all bent out from the inside?

 

Oh, great - the service manager just called quoting from a Ford Service bulletin about how the spec'd belt tension can cause the end of the crankshaft to break. That's good for their case. Bad for mine.

 

Anyway, on with my story.... I told the service manager that I did not believe the mechanic and that clearly I was not going to convince him of the facts (I'm still pretty calm at this point, amazingly. It helped that the mechanic lost it, yelled a bit and stormed out). So, I told him that it would be best if I spoke to the General Manager or whoever handles liability issues.

 

So, he goes away to get this "Guy in charge". Takes him like 10-15 minutes - obviously briefing him or whatever. So when this guy finally comes out, he is the slicked back, stereo-typical car salesman.

 

 

He "has total faith" in his service dept. It's my word against their's. He's not gonna pay $4500 to fix something that can't be shown to be his dealership's fault. He will go as far as to get me the parts at wholesale. Great, thanks for that.

 

After several pretty calm inquiries from me as to whether he is going to do anything to make this right, I mention that I didn't want to have to, but I will get a lawyer. I even mentioned that I had spoken to someone who worked for PDP who advised me to go to them first, that they would want to handle it and make things right with me, the customer. He goes back to saying that customers are a "high priority" to him, but that there's nothing that he can do beyond his generous offer of wholesale parts. He also said to go ahead and get a lawyer because there's nothing I can prove.

 

So I walked out.

 

Then just now this service manager guy calls with this service bulletin crap.

 

I still think that the facts are in my favor. If, for some reason, the crankshaft was already broken, then as soon as he removed that bolt, it woule've been obvious. The lower cover is not oil-tight - it's just a dust cover. It does not press against the crank or pullies. That thing would've flopped right over - which is what he describes. And yet, if it did flop right over, then why did he need to use a prybar?

 

They've been trying to defend the use of a prybar to remove a pully. I just don't see it. If I went thru the phone book I can't imagine any certified (or otherwise) mechanic answering the question "How does one remove a crankshaft pully?" with "Go at it with a 3 foot prybar"!

 

Now this is gonna be a harrowing, drawn out legal battle. I'm gonna call the TV station too - it's gotta be worth a try.

 

------------------

 

240Z.jeromio.com

[jeromio]

Damn. Double triple damn.

 

I just looked in that crappy Haynes manual. They have a picture illustrating the way to remove the crankshaft pully: "Use 2 prybars".

 

That us just not what I expected. That pretty much tears my whole case. I am screwed.

 

 

I would never imagine using a pry bar for that job. But apparently it must be an accepted practice. Unbelievable. Add this to that Ford service bulletin and there's no judge that won't side with these jerks.

 

Now I just get to stew in my anger and misery. Guess I'll call around to find a used minivan VG30 (The Maxima engine is different it turns out).

 

If you're near Durham, NC, avoid RPM Lincoln Mercury (Actually "Michael Jordan's RPM Lincoln Mercury") and their sister dealership across the street, RPM Nissan.

[Kevin Shasteen]

Jerimio,

 

Sounds like you did a great job negotiating for yourself. Dont give up as this was just round one.

 

Remember; I told you-the dealer will usually be hesitant to turn in a loss as anything their insurance pays out means possible premiums going up when renewal time approaches.

 

The purpose for meeting w/them was two fold.

1) To place them on notice-they cant be aware of their problem if they dont know a problem exists.

 

2)To judge their reaction; See them eye to eye & get a "GUT" feeling of who is telling the truth & who is not telling the truch.

 

I made a call to my old buddies at PDP: Sorry to tell you-RPM Lincoln nor any of the sister dealerships are insured w/PDP. This means they are with Universal Ins. or John Deere.

 

Now, What you have to remember is; even tho the Haynes Manual....and any other manual says to pry the crank hub off is immaterial.

 

Does the Haynes/Chilton manual also say-by the way when you pry this hub off you're goint to break the crankshaft snout? Of cours not.

 

So, how the crankshaft broke is immaterial; what matters is the crankshaft broke while it was under their care, custody & control (AKA:Bailment). Remember-under a bailment situation they have the duty to return you property in equal or better condition than when they voluntarily accepted it.

 

As I explained in my previous posting: If they elected to choose the "Direct Primary" clause in the coverages-then it doesnt matter if they broke it or didnt break it as "Direct Primary" is a coverage that accepts liability even if the dealer isnt liable. We aready know they are liable-its just a matter of getting past them & turning it into their insurance to find out exactly what coverages they have.

 

Believe me; of all the claims I handled, only a hand full of Dealers understood Insurance. The guys on the front line are merely stupid Centurians who think they have to defend the dealer until Death.

 

It would appear they are a customer oriented dealership; however, they have now pushed you to a little further extremes.

 

Get a picket sign that reads "All Customers Be Weary of RPM Lincolns Service Dept. They'll break your car & not accept Responsibility" or something like that; put that article in the paper. As you're picketing tell any driver that stops by your story. That will get the dealers attention.

 

Remember; if the Mfg designs a shoddy manner of removal of that crank hub-that's not your fault nor is it really the dealers fault, however, the dealer works on your car & when it breaks under their Care, Custody, Control-then they are liable & they have a responsibility to fix any failures they cause while the vehicle is in their Care, Custody, Control.

 

Keep us advised what takes place; this is where it gets interesting. Once you break thru the "Front Line" of defense-then things will pan out.

 

What you can do regarding an atty: is explain the story to an atty of your choice. Tell the atty you dont wish to retain them at this time but you would like to have said atty write a letter to that dealer. Have the atty write the letter in a way that demands this matter be turned over to their insurance carrier & expect a return call from said carrier w/in 10 days or a suit will follow.

 

Now the 10 days thing is actually a sham (the insurance co. & other atty's know this but the dealer doesnt know this). That should get the ball rolling.

 

Once the insurance calls the atty-the atty can redirect the calls to you. You're only out $50 for the letter & now you have the insurance's co's name. add, ph# & claim#.

 

Kevin,

[Oltmann]

quote:

---

Originally posted by jeromio:

Damn. Double triple damn.

 

I just looked in that crappy Haynes manual. They have a picture illustrating the way to remove the crankshaft pully: "Use 2 prybars".

B]

---

 

That's bullshit. There is nothing to pry against! You can either pry against the bottom timing cover which will bend every time, or you can pry against the oil pan and if you damage that you have to pull the engine!

 

You KNOW he did it wrong because he damaged the cover, maybe there is a way to pry it off but he did not use it.

 

You need to talk to the someone from their insurance company like Kevin said. It is in the dealerships interest to scare you away, it is in the insurers interest to keep you from litigating.

[Kevin Shasteen]

Jerimio,

 

Just to give you a little hope; maybe a light at the end of the tunnel (No, its not a train about to mow you over).

 

One claim I handled which just came to mind. I had this dealer that replaced an output shaft seal on a Dodge 3/4 ton 4x4 transfer case. The tech replaced the seal w/transfer case still in the truck. You may say...so what's wrong w/that.

 

When the tech pried (with a screwdriver) out the old seal he gouged the casing in which the new seal was placed. The customer went on his way not knowing he had a worse leak than before.

 

He was traveling on vacation & crossed a few states. His seal blows on him & the second Dodge dealer, in another state, notices the gouged metal housing encasing the seal.

 

The customer had the work done & drove on & turned the claim in to the first dealer only after he finished his vacation & returned home. Normally damaging or altering the crime scene is "Spoliation of Evidence" & warrants a denial letter; even tho the customer kept the old parts, I wasnt there w/him when said rear casing of that transfer case was replaced nor was anyone from my insured...we didnt have to take care of this guy. But we did. Simply because when I got the claim-I called the dealer & took a statement from the tech-he admitted prying out the seal w/screwdriver while the transfer case was still in the truck. Thus the fact he didnt use the correct tool.

 

I offered to reimburse that customer for the repairs for the second time. He threatened to get an atty because he wanted a new transfer case & he wanted us to pay for both repairs. I told him that is his choice of getting an atty & we didnt owe for the original repairs; however, my offer to him or his atty remains the same & would not change.

 

Long story to say this; three months later the guy accepts my offer & I settle the claim; only because I acted in good faith. The insurance company is who you need to deal w/now...doesnt matter what the manual says-the crank broke under their Care, Custody, Control......they owe you that much at the minimum.

 

If you plan on seeing this thing thru-dont make any repairs to your vehicle & dont touch it any more than you already have.

 

When you do finally get thru to the insurance company-tell them you'ld like some consideration for the down time of that vehicle since the dealer jerked you around for so long & you had no alternate transportation; request $35 a day ever since your vehicle has been down.

 

Lastly & most importantly: Each time you make contact w/the dealer regardless if its on the phone or in person:

1) FOLLOW UP W/A LETTER TO THE DEALER BASICALLY SUMMING UP EVERYTHING YOU DID/THEY DID. THEN DEMAND THEY TURN THIS OVER TO THEIR INSURANCE CARRIER.

 

What this does is creates a record, A Public Record. So, in the long run if this does make it to a courtroom: The Judge will see that you acted properly the whole time while the Dealer acted very Improperly. (The Letter Follow-Up is Extremely Important).

 

Keep the letter to one page. Keep it simple & restate somethings that I talked about in the previous posts: AKA-About Care, Custody, Control; This is a Bailment Issue!" Ect.

 

Have that letter carbon copied, mail it to them Return Receipt Requested. Once they have this "Time Bomb" ticking in their hands; they will be forced to comply-they can no longer ignore you!

 

If no response w/in two or three days-then shoot off another letter. Wait a few days-then go get an atty & say Tag-sick'em atty.

 

The pen is mightier than the sword!

 

Keep us posted.

 

Kevin,

 

 

[This message has been edited by Kevin Shasteen (edited February 22, 2001).]

[Kevin Shasteen]

Jerimio,

 

I'm not trying to kick a dead horse here; but time is limited.

 

Your best bet is to write the dealer a letter yourself & mail it Return Receipt Requested. That letter should go like this:

I)Make sure your letter is Dated in between your name/add & the Dealers Name/Address.

 

1)Put your name/add/ph# in the upper right hand corner.

 

2)Put Just below that & in the Left Hand Corner:

a)Name of The Dealer

b)Address

c) Attention: (Name of Owner of Dealership)

d) RE: Defective Product/Workmanship

 

3) Dear (Mr/Mrs Owner of Dealers Name)

 

4)Body of Letter:

 

1st Paragraph) This letter holds a two fold purpose. One, is to summarize my extreme disappointment in my most recent visit & two, to place RPM Nissan/Lincoln/Mercury on Notice as your mechanic, (State His Name), damaged my car beyond its ability to run and drive.

 

2nd Paragraph) Futher, because your technician, (State His Name Again), attempted to hide this destruction of my property; I have been extremely indecisive on getting an atty.

 

3rd Pasragraph) I feel we are all adults and should attempt to resolve this matter appropriately; as you know if I am forced to get an atty your expenses increase proportionately.

 

4th Paragraph) Be advised, the damages to my vehicle occurred out of a Bailment issue and arose while my vehicle was in and under the Care, Custody & Control of RPM Nissan/Lincoln/Mercury (which ever dealer it was). The vehicle is at my premises and remains in the same state as your tow truck left it in; your insurance carrier may inspect it upon my approval.

 

5th Paragraph) Please forward this letter to your carrier that handles your Garagekeepers Insurance for proper handling of this matter.

 

6th Paragraph) If I do not from your carrier within a few days I will be forced to seek other more costly measures.

 

Sign it appropriately.

Shoot them off another letter in two days reminding them that you have not heard from their carrier & this is their last warning.

 

hope this helped some more,

 

Kevin,

 

 

 

 

[This message has been edited by Kevin Shasteen (edited February 22, 2001).]

[jeromio]

Well, I called the lawyer Thursday. He said to get an impartial mechanic to back up my claim. He recommended a guy that happened to be pretty close to my house, so I drove over and showed him my pictures.

 

He seemed like a pretty genuine, knowledgeable guy (wish I'dve taken the car to him in the first place). He took quite a bit of time with me and went over his manuals and his AllData CDs. Anyway, he said that harmonic balancers and crankshaft pulleys usually come right off and maybe need a little attention from a pair of screwdrivers. He agreed that the guy shouldn't have bent the dust cover, but he said that typically he only uses a pulley puller when the pulley is really stubborn.

 

He also didn't think it was possible to break the crankshaft by prying against the pully.

 

So anyway, it's looking like:

 

- I'm the only person in the world who thinks that you should always use a puller to remove a pulley.

 

- I'm probably not going to find anyone who thinks this RPM mechanic broke my crankshaft.

 

- I'm SOL, out the $200 I paid RPM and now I have to buy and install a very expensive engine.

[Kevin Shasteen]

Jerimio,

 

I agree w/you about the Puller -vs- Prybar; That Is A Valid Argument!

 

I dont know how to make you understand, (From an insurance stand point). Believe me when I say this. It doesnt matter what the technical manual says! The Issue here is CARE-CUSTODY-CONTRL!

 

Even if the dealer did not intend to break your crank-The Fact Remains That It Did Break While Under Their Care-Custody-Control: Therefore-Fault is not determined by "Intention" but is IMPLIED because of the "Location" at the time of its breaking!

 

A quick lesson on CARE-CUSTODY-CONTROL.

 

The phrase CARE-CUSTODY-CONTROL is a legal term & has specific ramifications in a legal forum. "Care" as the dealer is suppose to reasonably protect your vehicle; "CUSTODY" in that they have "Gaurdianship" over your vehicle; "CONTROL" in that what-where-when-who sees, touches, operates, repairs or damages your vehicle is "Supervised" by them. Hope that explains the Care-Custody-Control thing as it is extremely important. Intent in this case is immaterial. Intent would only be a factor in a "Liability" Claim (Liability Claim means a Collision between you & another car also called a Third Party Complain). Your claim occurred in their premisses, under their care & under their control...its a First Party Claim & "Intent" is immaterial!

 

Please let me digress. The company I worked for "0nly" insured New/Used Dealers nation wide! I have handled so many product liability claims that they were actually boring to me! I have also talked to claimants atty's who didnt really understand "Care-Custody-Control" issues from a Garagekeepers standpoint.

 

Yes, you consulted an atty! If all that atty can tell you is for you to consult another mechanic.....Then that atty doesnt understand Care-Custody-Control! Most atty's concentrate on "BI" claims (Bodily Injury) because most atty's are not mechanically oriented and there's no addt'l damages awarded from an Auto/Mechanical claim like yours! Atty's are greedy so they go after the big dollar claims "BI" thus their nick names of "Ambulence Chasers".

 

Please just write the letter; what are you out other than your time, a piece of paper, a stamp & the Return Receipt Request charges (if there are any)?

 

Remember; Care-Custody-Control on most cases does not consider INTENTION all it cares about is the final outcome: Who had Care-Custody-Control when the incedent took place?

 

The fact that your timing cover is bent should lend credence to favor your complaint & justify your story in that the mechanic was excessively forcing the hub off!

 

Secondly; once you get thru to their insurance-You need to keep the mindset that you intend on taking this to small claims court & make sure you tell the insurance adjuster that you plan on having your trial heard in front of a "jury".

 

Believe me; every insurance claim is handled from the standpoint of "What will my claim look like if it makes it to a jury" that's why insurance companies operate in good faith. They know if a jury has to endure a trial whereby a BIG MEAN NASTY DEALERSHIP mistreated a "Nice-Hardworking-Taxpayer" that the jury will in most cases find fault w/the dealership & rule in your favor!

 

Please, just write the letter! Dont worry about what the atty said! I've talked circles around most atty's dealing with Care Custody Control issues that I know from experience that most atty's are not mechanical & dont know what they are doing regarding auto mechanical claims!

 

And when you write the letter; take it to your local courthouse & get it entered into public record...this creates a "DOCKET#" & that docket# gets stamped on your letter; That will scare the pants off the dealer & they will in turn either turn it over to their insurance company or to their corporate atty! And, if they dont have a corporate atty-they'll have to justify getting one to answer your complaint or if they dont get an atty then they will be forced to turn the letter over to their insurance company. Either way; you've made your stand & the dealer now knows your are not a push over!

 

REMEMBER; Whomever you speak to, The Issue is not "Did The Tech Brake My Car on Purpose" the issues is THE FACT that MY Crank Was not Broken nor My Timing Cover Bent When I took My Car Into The Dealership! They did that damage while my car was in their Care-Custody-Control & they owe you for that damage!

 

Stay On Point & Dont Chase Rabbits (Tangits). Always stay on point, no matter what they say: keep reiterating your point & dont deal w/their tangits (chasing rabbits).

 

Hope you write the letter!

 

Kevin

 

PS: Even if you dont win & the case does go to small claims court; you have forced the dealer to get an atty and show up for trial (That Is Time/Money From His Pocket). This expense alone will exceed the cost of your engine. If you make it thru to the insurance carrier...they will always keep this in mind. The insurance carrier would rather settle w/you than take their chances in court in front of a jury!

 

[This message has been edited by Kevin Shasteen (edited February 26, 2001).]

[jeromio]

OKay - you're very convincing.

 

I'm having my wife call around (BBB, etc.) to get the name of the principle owner. She's then gonna "fill in the blanks" on your letter and mail it in. We'll send it registered and then call tomorrow afternoon.

 

As far as the public record thing goes, we just take a copy of the letter to the courthouse - they'll know what to do with it?

 

My lawyer did admit to not knowing anything about this kind of case - he's sort of a general practice guy. He recommended going to the mechanic because he thought it would be helpful to put in his letter. I really thought the mechanic was gonna back me up. Anyway, he also recommended another lawyer who has had dealings with lemon law and other product liability stuff. We haven't called him yet, but probably will at least to see what he says.

 

Really, at this point I'm thinking that I'd at least like to get my $200 back. Maybe I'll write Michael Jordan a letter - I wonder how much of an actual ownership stake he has in the place.

[Kevin Shasteen]

Jerimio,

 

Thankyou for agreeing to write the letter. I hope you dont feel I'm being pushy about this. However, when I was handling claims & upon calling the claimant; I always got the same response from them as I've witnessed from you...in that the Dealer gave the runa'round & hassled them from day one. I do feel for you in that respect. I hate deception, deceipt & lies & as bad as a this may be for you......There are actually some good dealers out there; just hard to find!

 

For starters, when you address the Letter; address it: "Attention: "Name of the General Mananger C/O Michael Jordon. Also, I would insist that you mail it Return Receipt Requested. When you mail it Registered there is no proof that the dealer got the letter & they can just trash it. Their Atty knows this & if the General Manager is a Spineless Crook...then he knows this also!

 

Glad you decided to write the letter; Keep us updated....and read my final comments on the "VG30" thread.

 

Also, do not even hint to anyone that you have done work on the Van. If the question comes up on how do you know so much about mechanics-tell them you are a Shade Tree Mech & understand general auto mechanics-but since your problem was an electrical one-you decided to take your car to the dealer!

 

READ THIS, READ THIS, READ THIS!!

 

If, at any time-you're being questioned by anyone who has contacts w/or represents the dealer, ALWAYS, & I mean ALWAYS keep your answers as short as possible. Its when you begin rambling (maybe from nerves) or are not sure about the answer & begin rambling from that; that we get ourselves in trouble. Always keep your answers short & sweet. If they dont like your answer-Then you can ask them to refrase the question as you feel your response has fully answered their previous question! Stay tuff/not rude-just tuff & steadfast.

 

Good luck-keep us advised.

 

Kevin

 

 

 

[This message has been edited by Kevin Shasteen (edited February 26, 2001).]

[Kevin Shasteen]

Jerimio,

 

Now is the time to shoot that second letter off. If you havent mailed the first letter then go ahead & type the second letter at the same time you're doing the first letter. That way, when it is time to send the second letter; all you have to do is drop it in the mail.

 

Again, I would insist on mailing both letters Return Receipt Requested as only mailing it Registered.....DOES NOT CREATE A RECORD AS TO WHEN SAID LETTERS WERE RECEIVED! If the upper management of that dealer is less than credible...They Know This & Wont Respond!

 

When typing the second letter-use the same format as the first letter. The only change will be the body of the letter. In the second letter advise the dealer you have not heard from them & this time "TELL THEM" what your intentions are if you do not hear from them.

 

This is what you can say:

 

(1st Paragraph)

This letter is a reminder that I still have not heard from your carrier regarding my initial letter dated XXX(date of 1st letter) as a copy is attached for your review.

 

(2nd Paragraph)

As I hope is obvious, by now you should be most aware that I am formally making my complaint known against XXX(Name of Dealer) for damaging my car.

 

(3rd Paragraph)

It is obvious XXX(Name of Dealer) doesnt hold their employees responsible for damaging XXX(Name of Dealer's) customer's property. I hereby respectfully demand you forward this letter to the carrier that handles your Garagekeepers insurance for a proper & unbias investigation.

 

If I do not hear from your carrier I will be forced to file suit in small claims court where I will demand "Trial by Jury" & the outcome will not favor the public relations of XXX(Name of Dealer).

 

Further, it would be ashame that a simple auto claim now has to be looked upon as a Legal Defense claim; when it could've been avoided in the very beginning.

 

You have 2 days upon receiving this letter before I take action. I look forward to the prudent and reasonable resolution of this matter.

 

Sincerely,

XXX XXXXX

 

(Its kind of wordy-try to get the whole thing on to one page)

 

Jerimio remember; if the dealer doesnt respond by forwarding said letter to their carrier....(Your Decision) you need to file suit in small claims court. Your objective isnt to win (Of course we want to win) but your objective is too 'now' cost the dealer Time/Money & by forcing his employee's to show up for trial....you are seriously causing a back log at the dealer as their service line is backing up & the dealer has to pay the mechanic even while the mech is not at work but at trial!

 

At court; you get to play Perry Mason; if you argue in court by yourself-before showing up...think of all the questions you'ld like to ask the Mechanic; Remember-It doesnt matter how/why the crank broke; all that matters is that it broke at the dealers shop. This is where you get to put the mechanic under a microscope & needle him w/the obvious "Are you a licensed Tech, What are the Licenses You hold, Did you pry on the hub" Did you use excessive force" "Does the manual mention braking the crank or bending the Timing Cover while prying". When questioning the General Manager-Go Overkill W/The Care Custody Control & get the General Manager and the Service Writer to admit they willingly, knowingly & voluntatingly accepted Care Custody Control of you vehicle. When you are being questioned always look at the jury in the when speaking....sounds like fun!

 

Hope you get action from the dealer.

 

Kevin,

 

 

 

[This message has been edited by Kevin Shasteen (edited February 28, 2001).]

[jeromio]

This topic clearly has nothing to do with 6 Cylinder engines anymore.....

 

Anyway, I have in front of me the papers for filing suit against the dealership. It's actually pretty lightweight - just 2 basic forms. One for the bureaucrats and one that goes to the defendant. Costs $50 in NC - $40 for court fees and $10 for them to serve the summons.

 

I'm aiming high - we got a quote from the Nissan arm of the same dealership for cost of repairs and we have our rental car receipts. It totals like $6000!! But, even if I can just get a few hundred I'll be better off than I am now.

 

I'm also going to call the lame local TV news "Troubleshooter" thing. The feature tonight was someone bought a hottub that doesn't bubble enough or something. My story's gotta be better than that.

[Guest MegaShaft_2000]

quote:

---

Originally posted by jeromio:

Oh, great - the service manager just called quoting from a Ford Service bulletin about how the spec'd belt tension can cause the end of the crankshaft to break. That's good for their case. Bad for mine.

---

 

I don't know if you would want to get into this much detail about it, but there IS a way to tell if the crankshaft broke from the prybar or the pulley tension being too tight.

 

If it broke from the pulley, the stress would be applied from all directions on the crank since it is spinning while the pressure is being applied to the side. It would eventually break due to metal fatigue, and the fracture should be pretty clean and straight, with the end being pretty much squared off at a right angle.

 

If it broke from being pried off, the stress would be applied from one side, and the break may not be so clean. It would probably not be squared at a right angle, the break might go diagonally across the crank, parallel to the direction that he was prying it.

 

I can only guess so much without seeing it for myself, I could be totally wrong.

 

But if I were you I'd take the crank and examine the damage and try to see if you can "reconstruct" what happened.

[Guest MegaShaft_2000]

Oh yeah, if it had a VG30 in it and you have to replace the engine anyway, maybe you should look into getting a 84-89 VG30ET engine from a 300ZX Turbo and putting it in your van.

 

Then you'd have a true hybrid van... a Turbo Quest!