Oltmann

Shaq vs. Weeman

Do you want to keep the stock guage? If not you can probably use one of the electronic speedometers on the market. Most of us LT1 guys are using a 5" Autometer speedo. It will work under the following parameters: • Pulse rate generated proportional to vehicle speed. • Output within the voltage ranges listed below: 4.0 to 16 V peak (Square Wave), 3 wire 2.0 to 120 V peak to peak (Sine Wave), 2 wire It would be nice if you had access to an oscilloscope to verify the output is within these parameters, however I'd bet it will work.

I don't know anything specifically about those, but I'd be nervous about buying block huggers from an auction. Not all block huggers are created equally, and if they don't fit, you (probably) can't return them.

I'll be there, doing my Frankenstein impersonation as usual. Spencer

1995 is the best year because it has a sealed optispark distributor (more reliable) and OBDI. If you find a good deal on a 96, it will take $200-400 extra to either swap to OBDI or buy the correct tuning software. The wiring is almost identical from OBDI-OBDII, the only difference being the extra wires for the rear O2 sensors.

2.2KOhm.

Waytek has corrugated loom up to 2" ID. I like the looks of this stuff though: http://order.waytekwire.com/CGI-BIN/LANSAWEB?WEBEVENT+L070D4F260FC9033EAB95781+M37+ENG

Then it might be considered fair use.http://publishing.wsu.edu/copyright/fairuse/

Copyrights last for 95 years from publication for corporations, or the authors lifetime plus 70 years for individuals. You will have to obtain permission from the copyright holder until the copyright has lapsed. Thanks to the Sonny Bono Copyright Term Extension Act of 1998. Seriously. Yes, that's the guy who crashed into the tree.

Yeah, because no matter how little oil you put in, half of it will come shooting out on your jeans when you put the insert in. ...or so I've heard.

You don't have to swap harnesses to switch from OBDII to OBDI. The harness for OBDII is the same pin for pin as the OBDI harness, with the addition 4 wires for the rear O2 sensors. All the sensors are the same, with the exception of the knock sensor which produces a higher value. This can be rectified by either swapping to the older sensor, or wiring a 2K resistor between pin 22 on the blue connector and ground. All you really need is an OBDI PCM. You can find OBDII programming software now, but it is more expensive (probably by more than it will cost to swap to OBDI) and the monitoring/logging software doesn't work as well. Because of this, I would advise you to swap to OBDI

The new Skyline is the same as the Infiniti G35: http://press.nissan-global.com/NEW_SKYLINE_COUPE/EN/pressrelease.html Repugnant.

The governor has limited power to set policy in the state. His principle right is to stop the implementation of bad policy through the veto. So I don't see why you are so concerned about Arnold not having a detailed plan that he probably wouldn't be able to implement anyway. This recall was simply the fastest way to send a message to the legislators and to halt them in their tracks.

From the intro in JTR: "This manual shows how to set the engine back so that the distributor is within an inch of the firewall (compared to the 3-4 inches of most V8 Z's) ... Positioning the engine 4 inches further back than the typical conversion..." So 4"-1"=4". That's how.

You seem to be missing a few of these..................................................................................................

Good point, but the L99 came as the base engine in the 93-96 Caprice.

The stock PCM cannot do better than 7k RPM even with programming.

That motor is called an L99, althought it looks externally the same as an LT1. I've heard people talk about building a 302 that way, but I've never seen anyone actually do it. Probably because it doesn't make much sense.

"Do what the manual says." Platinum and iridium and the rest of the exotic metals used in spark plugs these days have a higher impedence than copper. That means that you have to apply more voltage to achieve the same amount of spark energy. Modern ignition systems, multicoil systems in particular, are designed to overcome the impedence of these metals. Older systems may not be able to do it though, and you should really use copper. You will have to replace them more frequently, but it isn't hard to do on an L6.

There have been several long threads about this subject, so I will take a shot at synthesizing them here. The "bumpsteer mod" should really be called the "camber gain and also possibly but not nessecarily in a good way bumpsteer mod." Moving the control arm attachment point up will correct camber gain in lowered cars (which is good) and it might decrease bumpsteer, but it might increase it too, depending on the history/configuration of the front suspension. The only way to find out is to measure it which is painstaking. Correctly setting up bumpsteer is fairly difficult, which is why some racers don't bother. edit: By "it" I mean bumpsteer.

Let's see, this guy McMaster has been working on this thing for over 60 years and has dumped $10 million in it. He sure seems determined to prove that it doesn't work! I surely hope Al Gore and Ed Begley, Jr. invest all their money on this.

My favorites are Mobil 1 Supersyn 0w-40 and Castrol Syntec 0w-30. The Mobil is a light 40 weight and the Syntec is a heavy 30 weight so these can be used almost interchangeably. If you get the Syntec make sure it says "Made in Germany" as there are two different kinds. You can get these two from Autozone for about $5 a qt. In fact, Autozone may be the only place to find these. If you want to save some money, occasionally Walmart carries Mobil 1 5qt jugs for $15-20. They don't sell the 0w-40 this way, but a 30 weight is good too. I would stay away from the other Syntec grades though.