Guest Zpeed Posted July 21, 2001 Share Posted July 21, 2001 i forgot the name of the 240z intake, but i heard that if you use the N36 u get like a 10hp increase, probably lease, but if you do get a increase,i got my N36 just laying around so i mite as well pop that on, is there much modification, or do i just switch the thottly parts over onto the N36 from the 240z or do i need to use the whole N36 manifold including the throttle, becuase the N36 has alot more stuff on it compared to the 240z, Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
spotfitz Posted July 22, 2001 Share Posted July 22, 2001 There was word of an increase with the N36 compared to the N33, E33 or E36(all the earlier intakes. Using an early balance tube should remove any problems that you will encounter with throttle linkage and remove alot of unneccessary crap. I have an E33 on my '74 260 right now(if I remember right, I ground the # off before coating) and I had to use 240 throttle linkage to make it work. It will be the same story with the linkage when I go back to the N36 I still have, using the uncluttered balance tube. You might want to port match while you have things apart to possibly get all the extra ponies you can from the intake. Hope it helps. http://www.geocities.com/spotfitz/intake_header1.jpg You may have to copy/paste. I either screw it up everytime or geocities suck, or both Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest empracing Posted July 22, 2001 Share Posted July 22, 2001 i thort i heard someware that the late manifold/early carbs was the good combo and theres a differant carb isolator thats better but i cant for the life of me rember where i had that info mine had the late gear and went like crazy with the flat top/turbo head f54 combo but i couldent keep needles up to the buggers anyone else had these probs? also why is it that the zx motor wont rev well if they did the same thing to them that my motor had i swear there would be less turbos around man that thing hammered Rock on inliners! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Zpeed Posted July 22, 2001 Share Posted July 22, 2001 i think the problem u have is maybe with the needles, get some SM needles, i havn't had the problem cause i still running the L26 with the round top carbs, but i heard that u do get problems with the early carbs with the L28, but there was a massive difference when i changed over the flat top carbs to the round tops... it really started to purr alot nicer.... someone else might know more, spotfitz, i like the headers and love the intake how its been cromed... nice, looks really nice.. i've got alot of time before i'll be changin to my L28 i wanna build, so i just want to learn more, see what things work etc... haha [ July 22, 2001: Message edited by: Zpeed ] Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jimzdat Posted July 22, 2001 Share Posted July 22, 2001 Unless you've made mods to the enigine (cam, valves, etc) there is no advantage to the SM needles-they are more for modded motors--on a stock L28, the original needles will work just fine, the hardest part is actually getting the things adjusted right in the first place. I am currently running an L28 in my 260 2+2, with 3-screw SU's (bodies have been redone by ZTherapy-new shafts with roller bearings-no more vacuum leaks at the shaft!)and am maintaining 20MPG, and it pulls nice and strong all day without a hitch. As far as the intake is concerned, I think it was the combo of early carbs and 260 mainfold that gave you a power gain, but I don't recall how significant the gain was. (As a disclaimer, most of my knowledge of SU carbs is compliments of Scott Bruning-there may be more info I have missed, or misquoted, on his site-www.ztherapy.com Drop him an email, or give him a call-he'll have an answer for you. As an added note, his new SU videotape is an excellent tool for anyone trying to work on SUs) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest rick458 Posted April 17, 2004 Share Posted April 17, 2004 what all can I remove from my stock 74 260Z egr intake to remove the throttle holdopen solenoid function and EGR. or would it make better sense to replace the intake and exhaust manifolds the throttle hold open really disturbs me but I dont want to be backfiring constantly at lift off either Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johnc Posted April 17, 2004 Share Posted April 17, 2004 The myth surfaces again... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest rick458 Posted April 17, 2004 Share Posted April 17, 2004 What is the Myth I'm a newbie Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest bastaad525 Posted April 18, 2004 Share Posted April 18, 2004 Well I will speak from personal experience. I wouldn't say that they make 10 extra hp, but there is one REAL, BIG benefit of the N36. When I first put together my N/A motor with stock SU's and the stock 240 manifold, I noticed that my cylinders would run noticeably uneven. It's been a while so I may have this switched around, but if I remember right, the number 2 and 5 cylinders would look just right, whereas all the other cylinders would run too rich. When I swapped over to the N36 manifolds this problem cleared up completely. I believe Norm has had the same experience with these manifolds, and maybe a few others. The only mod I had to do to run them was swap over the balance tube, and to run a different thickness spacer between the manifolds and the carbs. I wish I had dyoed before and after... unfortunately I did not, but the motor definately felt smoother with the N36's. The SM needles are okay... they provide a lot more fuel at high RPM than the stock needles do. A lot of people running stock L28's with the stock 240 needles complain that they seem fuel starved after about 5000rpm. The SM's fix that. If you look at them side by side with the stockers, you will see the SM's are quite a bit shorter, like 2mm, so are 'wide open' on the fuel sooner. They also are more dramatically sloped, so they increase fuel delivery faster overall vs. the 240 needles. Problem is, this ends up with rich running in strange places, and much as I tried, even on the dyno, I could not tune it all out. I ended up settling for too rich of an idle and low end, but just right mid to high revs and perfect at WOT. This made good power on the dyno but unfortunately killed my gas mileage... my average was 13mpg's on the streets. Freeway driving was a much more friendly 20mpgs. I had always wanted to try the stock 240 needles for myself. The BEST bet for needles is to call Rebello and work with them to get some custom needles ground. I believe they also have some needle sets preground for general applications, that work better than the SM's or the 240 needles for stock or near stock L28's. There prices were VERY reasonable especially considering the amount of performance likely to be gained or at least driveability. I would suggest to ANYONE who is running an L28 with SU's to give them a call and talk about this with them. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johnc Posted April 18, 2004 Share Posted April 18, 2004 A long time ago in an engine shop far, far, away, there were... Dyno Tests! Some (maybe only one) engine builders discovered that for a particular head/piston/intake/SU/header/exhaust combination on a race engine that the N36 intake manifold produced a small increase in measurable horsepower at some rpm number. Since those secretive dark days, the myth has grown to include all head/piston/intake/SU/header/exhaust combinations and a specific horsepower number has been added to the myth. Suprisingly, other engine builders back in those dark, secretive days discovered that for their particular head/piston/intake/SU/header/exhaust combination the E88 intake manifolds produces a little bit more horsepower at some rpm number. And even more suprising, some engine builders discovered that for their particular head/piston/intake/SU/header/exhaust either intake manifold (and a few others) had no affect on measured horsepower. Moral of the story: there's no magic bullet. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest norm[T12SDSUD] Posted April 18, 2004 Share Posted April 18, 2004 As bastaad stated. I noticed that all 6 cylinders ran evenly after the N36 upgrade.Before the change my #3 and #4 spark plugs would run quite a bit richer. The manifold is different internally and it is slightly shorter. I also noticed an increase in 1/8 mile mph that would indicate about a 5 HP advantage, BUT the gain could have been due to a possibly better intake gasket match. later,norm Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest rick458 Posted April 18, 2004 Share Posted April 18, 2004 Was the N36 intake the stock intake of the 260Z? because mine has Ninty-Leven vacuum ports water passages EGR, that darn solenoid etc I dont see how it could outflow anything But I'm new at this Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest bastaad525 Posted April 18, 2004 Share Posted April 18, 2004 yeah but all that stuff is attached to the balance tube, not the manifolds themselves. You dont want to use the 260 balance tube. Replace it with the 240 tube. Well in your 260 actually you want to leave everything the way it is Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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