Guest Anonymous Posted October 11, 2001 Share Posted October 11, 2001 ok, you talked me into a turbo, bt i don't know much about them, i think autos are better right? they don't let the boost drop inbetween shifts? also can i just take a stock 75-79 motor(N42/N47 head and 8.3:1 CR) and bolt on the turbo ad use the turbo ECU? or do i need the F54, i know the P heads have a better combustion chamber that help with the pinging but is that really important for something that will only see the 1/4 track(and racing Nathan's 75 when he gets it built)? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scottie-GNZ Posted October 12, 2001 Share Posted October 12, 2001 Uh-Oh, does this mean I get all the blame if it does not work out? "Autos are better for a turbo" is too generic a statement. IMO, autos are better for a high-HP turbo in a drag racing application. If you enjoy rowing your own, then you definitely want to stick with a manual. If you do go with a manual and also drag race, you will just have to work a little harder to develop a clean, quick launch technique. ZR8ED is going through that now and Scotty-Miz can also testify to that. Yes, you can turbo an NA but I think you want to at least have the turbo head. You are going to need the injs, fuel pump, exhaust manifold, turbo, J-pipe, downpipe, AFM , ECM, harness, various sensors and more that I am forgetting. Your best bet is finding a donor car that will provide you all the pieces and also an R-200, CVs for the future, and if it is an 82-83, upgraded front brakes (with 84 vented rotors) and rear disc brakes. A lot of folks looking to make the same swap go looking for a turbo engine and could have as much luck looking for a complete donor car, especially one that has simply rusted away. If you are really on the cheap, then make sure the engine is in good condition and just swap everything and have an exhaust made up. If your budget can allow it and you have minor engine assembly skills, then you could freshen up the engine with a valve job, new rings and bearing and save some $$$ by doing the final assembly. The next step up, a la Scotty, would be to get an I/C and an adjustable FPR or bigger injs for more fuel to support more boost. Now you are at the point where you start saying "damn, 12s isn't fast enough" Trust me, you will. There are so many folks who have successfully done this swap so there is no need for concern about technical support. Check out DRAX's and other websites for some great information. [ October 11, 2001: Message edited by: Scottie-GNZ ] Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest MegaShaft_2000 Posted October 29, 2001 Share Posted October 29, 2001 quote: Originally posted by justin280zx: ok, you talked me into a turbo, bt i don't know much about them, i think autos are better right? they don't let the boost drop inbetween shifts I can't speak for all turbo cars, but I know the 300ZX TT is faster in auto, and I hear the Supra and Grand National are as well. Once you turn the boost up, you don't want to have to rebuild all that boost in between each shift. For the 300ZXTT, in stock form the auto is faster up to about 100mph, and as you modify the car more and increase the boost, the auto tranny gets even more of an advantage. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tim240z Posted October 31, 2001 Share Posted October 31, 2001 Here's some GN turbo heads on e-bay Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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