CrayZ Posted April 9, 2013 Share Posted April 9, 2013 Is there a difference between the 240,260,280z fuel tank sending units? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
z240 Posted April 9, 2013 Share Posted April 9, 2013 (edited) There are three varieties. 240's have a simple two wire connector, 260/280 up to 7/76 has a third wire as there is an "empty" sensor thing on the arm as well, then there is the late 280 sender that goes in the top of the tank , as the 8/76 and later cars have quite a different tank. The 240 and early 280 sensors mount in the tank the same way, and other than the electrical connectors are interchangable for the fuel level function. Just have to "alter" the wiring to suit. The 240/early 280 tanks are slightly different volumes and shapes, so there may be small differences in float arm length or electrical resistance full/empty, but they are small. We seen posts here or on czcc that suggest new senders don't have the same bends on the arms, (or any!) as the stockers, and if you don't make them the same, you level reading will be off. Can't think of anything else. Hope this helps Edited April 9, 2013 by z240 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CrayZ Posted April 9, 2013 Author Share Posted April 9, 2013 (edited) I have a 77 so is my best bet to stick with a 280 unit? Also does anyone know if the stock sending unit will work with autometer guages? Edited April 9, 2013 by CrayZ Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CrayZ Posted April 9, 2013 Author Share Posted April 9, 2013 I just called the Z store and they are tellin me that the 280 sending units are not available anymore. He suggested I use a universal unit. Anyone run into this issue with aftermarket guages? Any "quick" fixes? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
duragg Posted April 10, 2013 Share Posted April 10, 2013 Can you find a used 77 sender? I followed another Hybridz thread to calibrate my 73 sender to my Equus (GM?) gauge with a 350ish ohm resistor. There is a website where you can calculate what is needed: http://www.1728.org/resistrs.htm Example, I think my Z is a 90ohm empty signal and I needed to add a 360ohm resistor to make the final signal at the gauge the 73ohm it wanted to see to read zero. Going from memory, just an example. Tj Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CrayZ Posted April 10, 2013 Author Share Posted April 10, 2013 The autometer guage I have I there now was working with the current sender. I'm hoping I can just find a replacement and call it square. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CrayZ Posted April 10, 2013 Author Share Posted April 10, 2013 The autometer guage I have In there now was working with the current sender. I'm hoping I can just find a replacement and call it square. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
duragg Posted April 10, 2013 Share Posted April 10, 2013 There is a TON of 280z and ZX for sale and part-out in Phoenix. Check Craigslist here. Tj Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CrayZ Posted April 11, 2013 Author Share Posted April 11, 2013 thanks Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CrayZ Posted April 11, 2013 Author Share Posted April 11, 2013 http://www.zcarsource.com/content/p/9/pid/52788/catid/7625/Fuel_Tank_Sending_Unit_77_78_Core_Charge_refurbished Just found this.. looks like the easiest fix Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RebekahsZ Posted April 11, 2013 Share Posted April 11, 2013 I had unreliable sender function for a year, until I cleaned up the connections between the chassis harness and the sender. Works perfectly now. I'm sure you already tried that....just sharing my experience if it helps. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CrayZ Posted April 11, 2013 Author Share Posted April 11, 2013 I had unreliable sender function for a year, until I cleaned up the connections between the chassis harness and the sender. Works perfectly now. I'm sure you already tried that....just sharing my experience if it helps. I rewound the wire when I first hooked up the guage but haven't tried cleaning the connections yet. The car will be down for a couple of months for major mods and repairs so ill give that a try before I send it off. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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