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Anyone Build on a Factory Hydraulic Roller Block?


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My goal is a quick and easy to drive street 350 for my 260Z. Still need a good kick in the butt when mash the accelerator. I got everything ready for the machine shop. The short block is a 350 2 bolt main out of a 250hp auto Vette. My plan is to keep the rotating assembly stock with a hone for the bores and a polish of the crank. I have ARP rod bolts and main studs for reassembly. The valve train is all Comp with a Magnum Hyd. roller grind .500 lift with 270 deg duration and a Comp roller timing set.

 

I have a pair of Brodix IK 180 heads with Comp roller rockers. I plan to mod a set of Sanderson 1-5/8 dia. long tube headers to fit the Z. Undecided on intake but thinking of a dual plane with a Holley of about 750 CFM and a vaccuum secondary. Your thoughts on this? anybody build something similar?

TIA

chris

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I've built similar with a performer RPM intake. It was super strong in a 3rd gen camaro so a 260 should scream. Has the block been decked? I'm unsure what your experience is with SBC but I would check to see how far the pistons are down in the bore at tdc. It can really affect compression ratio.

Edited by skirkland1980
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Any transmission info?  Rear end ratio?

I'm building a WC T5 with the reinforcement parts from http://www.thegearbox.org/T5.html  Not planning a drag car though it could occasionally see the strip. Dunno about rear end, 3.54? open R200 or whatever came in a 77 280Z. I do plan to add a limited slip down the road. Already spent too much money.........

 

Yes, Skirkland1980, I plan to have the block decked, 10ish or so compression, I did get the 64cc chamber.

chris

Edited by NCchris
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The better the quality of the engine, the greater it will cost.  First clean the block, check it and the crank for defects.  With 180cc intake 64 cc combustion chamber cylinder heads, this has become the limiting factor.  Strongly suggest decking the block such that the pistons are level to .005 inch in the hole.  With the careful choice of pistons, try your best to get the maximum amount of squish out of the pistons and cylinder heads.  With a cast crank there will be stretch in the rotating/recip assembly.  Strongly suggest using longer Scat "I" beam con rods, shorter dished (lighter weight) SRP Professional Pistons then internally balance the crank with neutral balance damper and flywheel.

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