lt.dangle34 Posted July 15, 2013 Share Posted July 15, 2013 Anybody using a painless harness for their chevy v8 carbed swap? Is it worth it or should I just cut all the unused wires out of the factory harness? Which painless kit are u using? Not much zx info when I searched. The jtr book doesnt really help with a zx, any diagrams or write ups on this I am missing? Thanks 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mike kZ Posted July 17, 2013 Share Posted July 17, 2013 Maybe you could contact this guy: http://forums.hybridz.org/topic/57266-yes-a-chevy-350-fits-in-a-280zx/?hl=wiring&do=findComment&comment=537235 Here is some other info on ZX swaps: http://forums.hybridz.org/topic/65038-280-zxsbc-v8-economy-conversion/?hl=wiring&do=findComment&comment=608522 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
78Z/250GTO Posted July 28, 2013 Share Posted July 28, 2013 I am in the process of installing a painless harness in my 78Z V-8 build. I am using the 14 circuit generic hot rod harness. For the unschooled like myself it is very confusing and scary.Very slow and tedious but am making progress. all the wires are labled with printing my old eyes with bifocals and magnifing glass still have trouble seeing. shop lights don't make it and must have daylight but I am cooking along.. I.ll post progress if anyone is interested ............JIm Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
2subiesinyard Posted September 3, 2013 Share Posted September 3, 2013 I am in the process of installing a painless harness in my 78Z V-8 build. I am using the 14 circuit generic hot rod harness. For the unschooled like myself it is very confusing and scary.Very slow and tedious but am making progress. all the wires are labled with printing my old eyes with bifocals and magnifing glass still have trouble seeing. shop lights don't make it and must have daylight but I am cooking along.. I.ll post progress if anyone is interested ............JIm I'm probably going the same route with my 74 this winter. The factory harness has been so butchered by multiple past owners its just unreal. I figure a brand new harness from Painless is the way to go. The only thing that worries me is the hook up to the factory head light, turn signal and starter switches. Any input would be greatly appeciated. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
78Z/250GTO Posted September 15, 2013 Share Posted September 15, 2013 since my build is a 250GTO The Z dash is reskined with a GTO dash. I'm not using the Z headlight or wiper switches. I'm using dash switches. The heater blower switch, after 5 weekends of frustration finally went against the wall, I haven"t arrived at the turn signal highbeams level yet but I have an old Spitfire switch and floor highbeam switch just in case.I'll let you know if I am able to use the Z switch and how to hook it up.....very slow progress Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lt.dangle34 Posted September 22, 2013 Author Share Posted September 22, 2013 Yes the heater, h/l switch, and turn signals are my concern, everything else should be straight forward. I did buy a factory Datsun shop manual off ebay, the wiring diagrams are awesome, should help. And I got it for $25 shipped Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
78Z/250GTO Posted October 5, 2013 Share Posted October 5, 2013 I sold my Z heater blower which was all rebuilt. I used the money to buy a Vintage Air bi-level heater/defroster from Summit 249.00. A small price to pay to prevent all the frustration I felt trying to make the stock unit work. Had I done this before, the 5 weeks blowing my brains out, would have saved much time and effort. The Vintage Air unit comes very complete and easy to install .I only had to make some brackets to hold it about 6inches away from the fire-wall ,It's very compact and fitment was no problem Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
2subiesinyard Posted December 27, 2013 Share Posted December 27, 2013 I sold my Z heater blower which was all rebuilt. I used the money to buy a Vintage Air bi-level heater/defroster from Summit 249.00. A small price to pay to prevent all the frustration I felt trying to make the stock unit work. Had I done this before, the 5 weeks blowing my brains out, would have saved much time and effort. The Vintage Air unit comes very complete and easy to install .I only had to make some brackets to hold it about 6inches away from the fire-wall ,It's very compact and fitment was no problem I need one of these as well. The car came with the heat box and all controls missing....just gone. I just don't understand why you would do this???? Did you take any pictures of the installation? I have gotten a factory shop manual off fleabay with all of the wiring diagrams. This thing is going to be invaluable. After looking at the diagrams I think I should be ok for all of the wiring on the column. It won't be easy by no means, but I have some electrical background (USN Gunners Mate) and I'm replacing almost everything (wire wise). The rear harness I'll leave alone from the plug under the drivers seat going aft , as this is unmolested and works. I'll put all new bulbs in the back, ensure everything turns on, so later if I have to troubleshoot, I'll start up forward. The dash, engine compt, interior and all the forward lighting will be brand new. For the acc that Need to turn on, like added fogs or rear defroster, I was thinking of getting a switch panel. Make my life easier I think. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fastzcars Posted January 16, 2014 Share Posted January 16, 2014 I've done about 3 wiring jobs since i finished my z about 5 years ago, so i have a little bit on knowledge on the z. I to used a hotrod universal 21 circuit wiring harness very similar to the "painless" harness except it was about half the price. I'm going from memory here, but the steering collum wiring from the z was the most difficult part. The stock light switch actually grounds the circuit to the headlights, there is a constant POSITIVE 12 volts to one side the head lights. I installed 2 relays to take the load off the switch. Other than that everything else was just following the wiring's location written on the wires themselves. My first full wiring job was my Z and that took me 2 weeks of on and off time.The last job I did was for a 69 chevelle that took me 2 full days. I know it looks intimidating , but just separate the workload down to smaller sections. Work one circuit at a time and you'll get through it. I hope that helps!!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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