ktm Posted January 6, 2014 Share Posted January 6, 2014 This one would be good for the larger amperage one http://www.iboats.com/Blue-Sea-Maxi-Fuse-Block/dm/cart_id.739373031--session_id.612863346--view_id.38416 This would suffice for the smaller amperage ones http://www.waytekwire.com/item/46011/MAXI-FUSE-BLOCK-HOLDER/ I've been reading these threads and a lot of the maxi blocks people have been putting on here are rated for 100 amps or less , that's the rating for the WHOLE block, not each circuit. 70+40+40+40 > 100. That's probably why people are having trouble with them loosening and things of that nature. They are using them for more than they are designed to carry. I would hate to see anyone burn their car to the ground because they didn't check specs. I went a different route with my setup. I have two 2-fuse maxifuse blocks that each get battery power independently from each other through the disconnect switch which is wire with power not a ground. One block provides power to my fuel pump and stereo, the other block provides power to a supplemental block for the LSx PCM, injectors, coils, etc. and a Painless 12-circuit block that is for the rest of the car. You are right in that people are overloading their circuits which is why I went with a spread approach. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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