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ISPKI

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About ISPKI

  • Rank
    Always Here
  • Birthday 12/22/1986

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  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    CT
  • Interests
    Cars, guns, computers, arc welding, high tech welding, metal fabrication, machining.

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    Iansbusinessv1@yahoo.com

Recent Profile Visitors

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  1. Yeah I need to get another bottle for my 140A mig, or a bottle of argon so I can run the Tig side of my multiprocess welder. I did just run out of gas so now may be the time. Thing is, 95% of what I am welding is thin body sheet metal with piss poor joint fit up. This kind of welding should really only be spot welded anyways so as to reduce warping as much as possible. I should take some shots of the engine bay side of the fender panel, those were much better fitting and cleaner...and I wasnt welding up which always helps.
  2. Driver's side patch panels are exceptionally disgusting. I dont have the right tools to get into the corners so cleaning the rust out before welding was extremely difficult. Hopefully going to have the side of the frame cleaned up by the end of tomorrow.
  3. https://www.millerwelds.com/resources/weld-setting-calculators/mig-solid-core-welding-calculator Miller's suggested settings are 220A-250A at 220-270 ipm. I dont know that I could ever run my ipm that low without having the weld sound like a pulse weld. I will give it a shot later tonight though.
  4. Took a break from trying to clean out the old frame rail and what not and went ahead and started fabricating Brian Laine's engine cross member. My angle channel is a little heavier than his, .250" thick, using 2"x2"x1/8" wall thickness square tubing. The motor mount straps are 5/16"x3" plate which I cut and welded rather than try to fold them to size in our 50 ton press. I have not done a ton of welding with my eastwood 250i at 24+ volts. It seems to me that the .045" wire is not really capable of standing up to amperage levels over 200. Even with wire feed over 400IPM, it still felt like the wire was exploding during the weld, resulting in alot of spatter.
  5. So I ground off the old motor mounts, spun the car around so I could get at the driver side which looked far more solid than the passenger side. I may not even have to replace the floor under the seat rails! However, I noticed a smooth section inside the wheel well on the side of the frame. Tapped on it with a hammer and it felt very soft, tapped a little more an it start popping out, grabbed onto it with some pliers aaand, its a pair of aluminum sheets rivetted over an 8 inch hole in the side of the frame! woohoo. Why did people think that was an appropriate repair?
  6. General rule for stick out is no more than half your ceramic cup diameter. They make monster cups and clear cups to help. Also - Trailing shields can make a massive difference. https://www.arc-zone.com/Monster-Nozzles https://www.arc-zone.com/2-Series-TIG-Flooding-Cup-Kits We implement a wide range of custom shielding gas tools like these that can be invaluable when welding certain materials. Another extremely critical aspect of TiG welding materials such as 316SS or aluminum sheets (or any situation where you are achieving 100% penetration from one side of the member) is shielding the root of the weld joint. 316SS is known to propogate root cracking and developing hydrogen embrittlement over time when the root is not shielded. Google "alpha casing" and you can see the issues this can cause.
  7. Especially if you are looking at making some decent HP out of a RB or smallblock v8, you will do well by having the added weight of a 280z for daily driving. All that power amounts to nothing if you cant keep your tires on the pavement. Even with the added weight of a 280z, it will still be considerably lighter than nearly every other car on the road.
  8. Miller Dynastys are excellent Tig machines. We have several 200DX models in our production aerospace GTAW Lab, alongside some older Maxstar 152s, some 140amp miller mig machines, a very expensive .1A-100A weldlogic lathe welder, and a 580A XMT 456. Our head GTAW welder has been able to weld all kinds of oddball materials and weld joint configurations with them, even .020" thick sintered aluminum mesh.
  9. No pictures for this update. Last night, I welded in the rear seat cross member. Making the main tube out of 1.5" square tube, .083ish wall thickness I believe. Kind of heavy compared to factory but it should be nice and secure. I am now trying to figure out how to turn the shell around so I can get working on the driver side floor. My shoppe may be just large enough to turn it 90 degrees and do the work with it sideways...if I move some cabinets around a bit. Interesting side question, does any one know how much these cars weigh with an empty engine bay and stripped interior? I need to yank the old drive shaft out before I move it around.
  10. I went with the Eastwood MP250i, 250 amp multi process welder. It cannot natively weld aluminum and it lacks high frequency starting but it mig welds like an animal. Can run on either 110 or 220. They sell this setup for about 1100, however, I have read that the torches and pedal are of very poor quality. I noticed that when you add it to your cart on eastwood's website, it adds the machine as one item, and all of the support equipment as a 2nd item. I went ahead and deleted the support equipment from my cart and bought only the machine which cost 600$ by itself (support equipment was ~550) on sale. I then used the extra $ to build my own 00 gauge ground cable with a lenco clamp, picked up a used Tweco Spray master Mig torch rated for 350amps (air cooled) for ~100$ and already had a WP-9 TiG torch with pedal. I had to make up my own connectors for these torches because Eastwood uses some kind of oddball cannon plug but it works reasonably well. Another note with regards to Eastwood; I purchased this because their customer support is supposed to be excellent but I found that they have a severe lack of knowledge when it comes to their welders. I repeatedly asked them for the pinout connections on the cannon plug for the welding torch and they refused to give it to me, claiming that it is proprietary knowledge. This is a pile of BS, as the professional welding manufacturers (Lincoln, Miller, ESAB) print their entire wiring schematic on the inside cover of their machines. Also - This is not a small, portable machine at all. It is very robust and well built and very heavy for an inverter power supply. We have a number of Miller Dynasty, Maxstars, Intellitigs, and XMTs at my work, and this Eastwood is built just as heavy duty as those machines. It handles considerably higher power than a Dynasty 200DX can handle (200amps at 100% duty cycle vs the Dynasty's 120amps at 100%). There is a device called an "ArcPig" that can be wired into your welder that will give it both High Frequency start and I believe will allow a DC machine to weld aluminum, albeit fairly slowly. https://axiontool.com/products/no-touch-arc-strikes-arc-pig-hf-inline-starter-stabilizer?gclid=EAIaIQobChMIv8DhrL-t5QIVlIzICh1qeQuSEAQYAyABEgI2RPD_BwE
  11. Just finished the passenger side this weekend. I dont have pictures of the floor support frame but I plug welded thru the frame into the underside of the floor. Used a floor jack and some blocks to keep the frame in intimate contact with the floor the whole time. Floor support is welded to the rear and the front frames. Welded in the patch panel for the firewall and fabricated the fender well patch around where the battery used to be. Certainly wont pass for factory but it is more solid than it has been in 10+ years. I tried to fab the curving piece out of a single panel but I just couldnt get it to both curve and twist the way I needed it to so after a couple failed attempts, I just gave up and welded it in. About 4x more weld joints than I wanted but I can finally spin the car around and get cracking on the driver side. Fortunately that side just needs the floor pan.
  12. Yeah, I really need to pick up a 2nd and 3rd tank for my setup, or a splitter valve. I have a 140A Hobart that is setup for .023" and a 250A MP eastwood setup for .045" but I have to swap the gas lines and power cables around whenever I want to switch between the two. For most of the sheet metal work, I am running at 15V with a decent wire feed speed on the MP250. Definitely achieves clean penetration (using root flux where possible, or aluminum backing plates to keep the root clean) but builds the spots fast and I have to let the pool cool down between spot welds or I will punch through.
  13. I was wondering if anyone has done a 5.0 swap and used the factory Ford EFI system to run the engine. I have a 5.0 out of an 01 mountaineer with the updated OBD2 EFI system. I have all of the electrical out of the donor vehicle, all harnesses, passive anti theft, airbags, literally everything. I would like to use the EFI system but I expect to have issues with anti theft and/or interlock from not having the automatic transmission anymore. I have read a bit on the Moates Quarterhorse chip and was wondering if anyone had any experience with it or another method of getting around the lack of an AT.
  14. It cannot be stressed enough to suggest that you practice on some scrap metal on the bench first. Practice alot, I mean, lay down feet of practice welds before even touching your car. Sheet metal warps extremely easily if you put too much heat into it. Play around with your settings, practice trying to keep the two members aligned flush, practice not warping your panels as you go. Good body welders have enormous amounts of experience and skill, it is not something that you pick up quickly but you could do a pretty OK job if you make sure to take your time, get the fit perfect, and double check everything every step of the way. You will most likely have more issues blowing holes through your weld joint than you will having lack of fusion. I like to use body magnets to help hold panels together. Make liberal use of clamps and bars all around your patch panel to try and keep it flush. Dont try and make it perfect, it wont happen, just try and focus on getting the whole thing to look "good enough" so that you can easily clean it up when you are done. I have seen people use cold air guns to rapidly chill the weld zone between spot welds that sped up the process and minimized warping.
  15. I keep forgetting to take pictures of my progress but the floor pan is fully welded in! It was getting pretty ugly over where I cut out the section to weld in the cross bar support piece. I also spot welded in the floor frame rail, just need to connect it to the engine bay frame rail.
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