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  1. 4130 doesnt require a specialty welder, it requires the correct filler wire, technically it doesnt require heat treat either if welded in it's annealed state (although the benefits are greatly minimized aside from corrosion resistance if left in an annealed state). Most of my experience is in high tech welding where the embrittlement is a non issue. I would like to look into seeing if my company can provide this welding service but I doubt we could do it cheap enough for the market. We would probably be looking at around 240$ per set.
  2. Out of curiosity Dave, what type of "Mild Steel" are you referencing? I read a bit through those links you posted and they are talking about 1080 mild steel which last I checked is classified as a high carbon steel. Annealed 4130 would be superior in every way to a mild steel, albeit only marginally without a significant investment for heat treatment. The strength gains probably would not justify the added costs of even the base material since you could just beef up the mild steel slightly to meet the strength of the 4130. The primary concern I have with trying to weld super thick MS is that the joints would need to have extremely deep bevels in order to achieve full penetration. 1in thick 1018 is strong and all, but it is useless if you cant achieve CJP which would require at least a .375" deep U joint (I would go even deeper if using a 110v MiG). Regardless, the pirate 4x4 information is quite interesting. Especially the notes on stress and failure analysis. I happen to use the same program at my work to perform the same stress analysis for the various industries that my company does business in. InvincibleExtremes: If you were so interested, I could probably create your designs in the software that I have and run a series of stress tests on it using a range of different materials. If that is something that you would like to pursue, then shoot me a PM and we can talk about it.
  3. All good points there JPNDave. 4130 requires a welding process that is better controlled than what mild steels require, the payoff is that you can use less material and achieve a tougher, stronger and longer lasting part that can be made with less material. The less material benefit is something that should be seriously considered for this type of part, especially if the joints are going to be MiG welded. Using less material will allow you to consistently hit your penetration depth easier which could make it alot easier for most people to perform the finished welds on these parts. While it is recommended to preheat 4130 and post stress relieve it, we have not seen these practices as required when using conventional welding machines. These practices may be required depending on how the 4130 was formed or if it is being welded post heat treatment or in a pre-hard state. My company has never encountered stress cracking or embrittlement issues when welding 4130 in it's annealed state using conventional welding techniques. The carbon content is not quite high enough to necessitate the heat treatment post weld. 4140 and up is when we have started seeing the need for the pre and post heat. Any machine shop worth their salt isnt going to have an issue machining 4130. Mild steel can certainly be machined at higher feed rates, but 4130 is by no means difficult to machine. I had assumed the cost would be higher for 4130 as well but I looked at a few local suppliers and the prices were not much higher than 1018. That will likely change based on your location and supplier though.
  4. If you get this project going with enough interested parties, maybe you could offer it in different materials, for an increase in cost obviously. 4130 would be an ideal alloy, great for conventional welding, much higher strength and toughness than low carbon alloys, far better stability during the welding process and the high % of Nickel and Chromium resists corrosion in case customers do not want to incur the extra expense of coatings. Cost would be somewhat higher depending on your supplier, although McMasterCarr has similar size material for similar pricing to low carbon steels. If anyone needs the welding done, shoot me a PM.
  5. That is something that I was wondering as well, although I was looking into how to adapt the datsun hub assy to accept a cv spline shaft. That may be better for some of our applications, but this build seems more universally useful. What did you use to attached the bottom of the knuckle to the control arm? Is it just a threaded rod or is there more to it that isnt visible?
  6. What material are you fabricating it from? What are you looking at for the welding process?
  7. Oh, i didnt see where you posted that. I will likely build my own mount specific to my setup but im still interested in your process and how you are designing your custom knuckle.
  8. You said in your initial post that this setup could use the 2002 and up explorer 8.8 by simply using 31 splines instead of 34 on the end of the CV joint. Would it also work for older 8.8s out of explorers? I have an 01 out of a mountaineer that I believe is identical to the 02 explorer 8.8; 3.73 gear, LSD, 31 spline, disc brakes.
  9. Have you looked into having the axles cut and then welded rather than resplined? If they need to be shortened, it may be possible for a high tech welding shop to simply weld the two halves back together. Although, if it only costs 75$ ea to have them cut and splined then high tech welding may not make sense. Do you know if the shop that is cutting the splines is going to induction heat treat the splines as well? Not sure if this applies to all axle shafts but I have read that it is common for only the splines to be induction hardened.
  10. Last I had read, the 8.8 swap is almost just as much work as an R200 short nose, or maybe doing an IRS 8.8 is just as much work? I have a perfect 8.8 for the swap, 3.73 geared, limited slip with discs. I don't really care about keeping the IRS, so if it is in fact easier and cheaper to swap in the 8.8, then I can definitely use that.
  11. Oh, geez didn't notice that, thanks. I have done a bit of research on the rear differentials. G35s have quite a bit more power than a 5.0 puts out stock, rated for over 260hp and ft/lbs stock. The 5spd MTs and ATs seem to have an open differential unless they have the tire and wheel package. However, the Open differential has an electronic system that seems to brake the slipping wheel enough to allow you to burn both tires. The 6MT cars have V-LSD differentials that seem to be very stout, although I have read that hard tracking will heat up the viscous fluid and reduce it's effectiveness temporarily. There are quaife and OBX upgrades for these differentials. I believe these are the same differentials use in 350z and 370z cars which may explain the decent aftermarket following. Looking up the VLSDs on ebay, I was able to find a few for around 200$.
  12. Hey guys, with a lot of new cars out on the market, I was wondering if anyone has looked into new potential rear differential swaps. I have seen a number of Infiniti G35s come up for sale for parts for very low prices. These are 3.5L V6 that come in either RWD or AWD. The rear differentials seem to be fairly priced. Curious if anything has looked into modifying one of these to fit our S30 chassis vehicles. I am working on a 5.0 swap into my 77 280z that will require a much beefier rear end than my R180 open diff. Starting power goal will be around 250hp and 300ft/lbs at the wheels.
  13. Ah bummer. Has anyone ever looked into the rear differentials in Mazda's RX-8? They are helical torsen design and supposed to be fairly tough.
  14. I also read that Nissan Armada SUVs use an R230 as their front differential. Might be able to find one of those in a junkyard. What differential do post 2000 maximas use?
  15. Yeah the 1st gen EFI system in the mustangs were very unreliable. The only other big piece of this puzzle is the rearend, I still havent sourced one. I was looking at trying to find an r230 but they seem to be just as difficult to find as an LSD r200. I did find that Mercedes benz used r230 rears in a number of mid 2000s sedans, but i believe they are geared pretty low, around 2.75 or something. Not sure if that would be very good in my setup but they are filthy cheap on ebay.
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