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HybridZ

ISPKI

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About ISPKI

  • Rank
    Always Here
  • Birthday 12/22/1986

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    CT
  • Interests
    Cars, guns, computers, arc welding, high tech welding, metal fabrication, machining.

Contact Methods

  • Yahoo
    Iansbusinessv1@yahoo.com

Recent Profile Visitors

4732 profile views
  1. Hey all, My co worker got his hands on a to be junked subaru SVX for free. Was sitting in an abandoned shop building for a while that he acquired, hooligans came by and smashed out all the windows, interior got a ton of water in it, etc etc. Long story short, he is going to strip it for parts before junking it since these are fairly rare. I wanted to know if anyone has ever swapped the rear differential of an AWD SVX into a S30. I would be looking to swap it into my 77 280z which had been an AT car with an R180 open. It has been converted to a 5.0 5 spd and I am looking
  2. Do you happen to have a spare MT pedal assembly? Looking to convert my 3 speed AT to MT
  3. I am converting my 77 280z 3 speed auto over to a v8 5 speed MT and am looking for a pedal assembly to use. Not sure which years can work.
  4. I believe I may have mine from my 77 280z. I will check and get back to you.
  5. What are your plans for the 2jz?
  6. A few pictures of the work done to get these headers to fit my engine. This engine has the GT40P heads which have an odd spark plug angle. There was only one company making headers for these (ford) but they stopped making them years ago and the only ones I could find are many hundreds of dollars. Flow isnt going to be ideal but I have a new design I am working on that should be much more gradual. Also - Getting alot of tig welding practice in. I was finally getting the hang of it once I got to the collector flange.
  7. Hey all. So I have had my 1977 280z for around 7 years now. Drove it for a couple when I first bought it. Started having issues with the L-Jet system. Spent a while troubleshooting but the more I fixed the more I found items that needed fixing. Ended up moving into an apartment, then bought a house, sold the house, etc. barely worked on it for a few years. My now fiance and I bought a farm house with a big ole workshop (about 2500sqft, 3 bays, 1 dumptruck bay) and I got back into making my dream car just that. I decided now was the time to do it right. My Z had rotted floors, rotte
  8. Hey all, I am moving this project over to the member's project area since I am just about done with most of the major fabrication work and starting to work on electrical.
  9. Possibly interested in the R200 long nose. Are you willing to ship it to CT?
  10. Here it is. Little dusty from sitting in its box for the last few years. I couldn't find the harness connector unfortunately but the internal wires are red and green
  11. I am pretty sure I have a 79-83 non turbo 280ZX distributor that I had swapped into my 77 280z. Ended up selling the motor and no longer need the distributor. I am going to grab some pictures of it because I dont recall if it is a NON turbo 280zx distributor but from what I understood, that was the one used to swap into the S30 280z to eliminate the points ignition module correct? I "believe" it has a brand new magnet in it that has effectively zero running miles on it as I had replaced that and the stator years ago when I first got it (dont ask me for the source, I cant remember back tha
  12. Ya know mine in my 77 280z were actually not that bad!, I replaced a couple feet on the outside and about 10 inches on the top but the only area on the bottom that was rotted was right around where it met the firewall. The rest of the bottom appeared pretty OK all the way up to the engine crossmember. There is a divider piece inside the frame over in front of the firewall that was rotted out on mine which was extremely difficult to replace. Doing 1 panel at a time, taking your time and dont try to replace everything at once should keep that frame structurally sound, especially having the engin
  13. That is definitely repairable on the surface but be prepared to have to replace at least twice as much as what looks rotted. Fortunately, that rot is forward of the engine cross member so I doubt you will have any structural issues. The inside can be extremely difficult to access, damn near impossible in alot of cases. I did a ton of repair work between the firewall and the cross member and I actually ended up cutting out the bottom of the frame in a long segment to make sure I got most of the rust. After welding in fresh coated steal, I drilled a hole open in the frame and sprayed in rust ref
  14. Welp, I have hit a slight snag in the project. I fabricated the transmission crossmember and bolted that in. Everything is mounted up currently. I started running electrical stuff, fitting the harness, upper intake etc. My snag is when I tried to mount the upper intake, the rear bolt hole is hitting the hood latch at the firewall with almost an inch left to go on it. Also - This is a 2nd generation explorer motor with a taller, higher performance intake. The upper intake is a bit taller than the older EFI intakes and looks like it wont clear the hood. I will likely have to cowl th
  15. Well, ended up yanking the filter adapter out of the arm that was on the block, turned it down and it ended up working just fine. Picked up a bellhousing and fork for the T5 and got it bolted on and test fit into the car. Shifter comes thru the trans tunnel about an inch or two forward of the Automatic shifter location. I had studs in the top mounting holes of the bellhousing that were hitting the firewall so it will go back a little bit more once I get bolts in there.
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