Rob L Posted April 12, 2014 Share Posted April 12, 2014 Ok guys it's been a long 2 days and maybe not seeing things right ....just finished tearing out all the stock suspension and Refitting it with modern stuff ...I'm now on the rear brakes and am using arizona z car rear willwood setup ...it says you might have to space out the caliper to fit and to put the spaces inbetween the caliper and the mounting bracket ...... Well I have zero spacers inbetween the caliper and the bracket but the caliper still needs to come out a few more mills to get it center ....how would I accomplish this if I can't get the caliper to come out more since it's already up against the bracket and adding spacers would move it back not forward ?? Anyways please go easy on me if I'm missing something stupid...lol Thanks in advance Rob Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
G-E Posted April 12, 2014 Share Posted April 12, 2014 Put the spacers between the bracket and the spindle's ears? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rob L Posted April 12, 2014 Author Share Posted April 12, 2014 Thought of that ..,.just unsure if it's a wise way of doing it...it seems strange a bit that they would design brakes and want you to space it out like that ...just want to confirm that ...that is the proper way to do it . Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jt1 Posted April 12, 2014 Share Posted April 12, 2014 Tolerance stacking in the wheel bearings, strut, rotor, hat, and stub axle can cause the calipers to be a bit off center. Usually a spacer isn't a big deal. jt Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rob L Posted April 12, 2014 Author Share Posted April 12, 2014 Ok so spacing inbetween the bracket and hub ears is the way to do .....just seemed strange to me lol Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RebekahsZ Posted April 13, 2014 Share Posted April 13, 2014 Make sure you have torqued your stub axle before deciding something is wrong. My caliper was really tight on the rotor. Then I tightened stub to 200# and the rotor spun freely. I didn't need any spacers-it was bolt on for me. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rob L Posted April 13, 2014 Author Share Posted April 13, 2014 ^^^^ thanks for that excellent piece of advice ....I haven't tightened mine yet .... I take it everybody just torques it too inbetween 180-200 and doesn't bother with the hub preload ? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RebekahsZ Posted April 13, 2014 Share Posted April 13, 2014 I've had good luck with 200# for over 20 years. On thing you can count on: I've made every mistake on my car that you can imagine. And I've usually found the solution on this site with help from someone else. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rob L Posted April 13, 2014 Author Share Posted April 13, 2014 Yes I agree this site is outstanding for resource.....plus the guys on here are great....and always quick to respond . Noticing the same thing as you I will button something up and realize oh shoot I had to connect that first and vice versus ...all part of working on cars ...but if I can stop from making too many of those mistakes that would be great too ....the next thing I do maybe I will hit you up with a pm and you can tell which way not too do it lol. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jt1 Posted April 14, 2014 Share Posted April 14, 2014 It doesn't matter if the caliper is perfectly centered if the pads drop in OK. I would tighten everything up and see where it works out, then make a decision. You can always grind the pads a bit if you don't want to shim anything. For a while I had a set of front wheels brgs that required grinding the inner pad. PITA but worked fine. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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