Meatwad Posted July 12, 2014 Share Posted July 12, 2014 (edited) So I have many questions with these struts. I know 8611 series are double adjustable and 8610's are single. Some of you guys are running 8610-1149 while some of you are running 8610-1437. I also noticed some are running 8611-1157 and some others are running 8611-1159. Are the only differences the dimensions of the strut? Could I run any of these on my car? What exactly needs to be modified to get these to fit in a 1977 280z? I haven't found much information on them except that people claim that they're running koni yellows. Which model number from each series (8610 or 8611) should I be running in the front and rear of the car? Edited July 12, 2014 by Meatwad Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johnc Posted July 13, 2014 Share Posted July 13, 2014 Your choice should based on whether you want adjustable rebound damping only or adjustable rebound and compression. I've done shock dyno testing on the three 8610 and three 8611 versions and, IMHO, the 8610-1437 and the 8611-1259 have the closest to ideal valving for a 2,000 to 2,500 lb. s30 chassis with spring rates from 250 to 400 lb. in. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Meatwad Posted July 13, 2014 Author Share Posted July 13, 2014 Are the front and rear struts the same part number on these cars? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johnc Posted July 14, 2014 Share Posted July 14, 2014 The front and rear shocks are the same part number. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RebekahsZ Posted July 14, 2014 Share Posted July 14, 2014 Take a look at the work required to actually adjust the compression adjuster in the 8611s. The contortions required to make that adjustment is what caused me to opt for the 8610s. If installing konis, be careful if using an impact wrench to tighten the big nut on the top-it is easy to also inadvertantly tighten the adjuster to the point of breakage. If I ever have mine apart again (please-no!), I want to have flats machined at the very top of the strut rod so that I can use a wrench below the camber plate to allow me to tighten the big nut without using an impact wrench. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
duragg Posted December 11, 2014 Share Posted December 11, 2014 Pulled my Tokico Illuminas out tonight. They served me well. Koni 8611-1259 double adjustables arrive tomorrow and will drill the bottom hole, clearance the tubes and get all buttoned back up. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johnc Posted December 11, 2014 Share Posted December 11, 2014 You can adjust the fronts in about 1/2 hour by disconnecting one anti-roll bar end link, removing the steering arm bolts, pulling the strut off the steering arm, make the adjustment through a hole you drilled in the bottom of the strut tube, and reassembling. The rears are even easier, you just need a short flat blade screwdriver to make the adjustment through a hole you made in the bottom of the strut tube. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
duragg Posted December 12, 2014 Share Posted December 12, 2014 just need the 2 bolts removed from the bumpSteer spacers? Or... 1 nut for strut top, loosen gland nut and remove the shock. About the same either way? And in theory the alignment and corner balance should not be disturbed. But I saw you posted previously to start the bump adjustment at +3 from full soft. I am running 550 front springs for the next event then reevaluate. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johnc Posted December 12, 2014 Share Posted December 12, 2014 Huh? You're talking about removing the camber plate, spring, bump stop, gland nut, and shock on both sides. That's not the same as removing the four bolts holding both steering arms and one bolt holding a sway bar end link. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
duragg Posted December 12, 2014 Share Posted December 12, 2014 Well no, but close. One nut atop the shock and the whole suspension drops down out of the spherical bearing and you can maneuver it down and pointing away from the car . Spring and stuff just lifts off, remove gland nut and slide out shock. To me it's similar work to the 2 19mm bolts at the knuckle arms (az-Zcar billet). Like you mentioned elsewhere its maybe 30m job including jacking the car. Starting compression setting suggestion? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johnc Posted December 12, 2014 Share Posted December 12, 2014 Same as I recommended before. Compression damping is more about vehicle weight, weight distribution, unsprung weight, tire grip,etc. then spring rate. A simple example of working with compression and rebound damping is softening front rebound and rear compression will allow a quicker weight transfer to the rear giving better rear grip out of a corner - you can get on the throttle more. If turn-in is an issue you do the opposite, soften rear rebound and front compression. If the car gets on the bump stops (front or rear) and you don't want that to happen, increase compression on that end. If the car stays on the bump stops, reduce rebound on that end. Always remember that shock damping controls the rate at which something happens (load transfer, unsprung weight movement, sprung weight movement). Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
duragg Posted December 12, 2014 Share Posted December 12, 2014 (edited) The difference in feeling just manually manipulating the Illumina vs the 8611 is "shocking".Can wait to drive at the first race in January.Old Illuminas were tight in the housing. Had to run a flap wheel inside the tube for a while to make room for new shocks.Hole a bit off center.. Edited December 12, 2014 by duragg Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johnc Posted December 12, 2014 Share Posted December 12, 2014 You can make that bottom hole bigger. You don't want the adjuster to bottom out in the housing. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
duragg Posted December 12, 2014 Share Posted December 12, 2014 (edited) I went back and made it bigger but that strut had a huge weld blob on the bottom. The adjuster fits clear and spins freely now. Having the Gland nut ID turned down to just accept the top of the KONIs so they will be self centered. Cutting a spacer for the back shocks once that is done to fix height. Then button 'er back up. Tj Edited December 12, 2014 by duragg Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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