Guest Anonymous Posted December 30, 2002 Share Posted December 30, 2002 I read somewhere that this is the trick replacement. Anyone have the part# or any info ? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scottie-GNZ Posted December 30, 2002 Share Posted December 30, 2002 Summit part# GRI-1-25202-X "Chevy, 24x19". Be aware that it has no mounting tabs and drain petcock, so it is not a simple drop-in, but I have been using it for over 2 yrs and it is great. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Anonymous Posted December 30, 2002 Share Posted December 30, 2002 could you like drill and tap a petcock at the bottom of thr radiator ? and is there no mounting kit ? i guess fabing up some stuff wouldnt be too bad Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest JAMIE T Posted December 31, 2002 Share Posted December 31, 2002 If you want to put a petcock on the rad, get someone to TIG weld a threaded bung in place. The tanks are only 1/8" sheet metal. It shouldn't cost too much to do the job. I would do it for $20 bucks, and it would look like it was born there. The same can be done for the mounting flanges. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Anonymous Posted December 31, 2002 Share Posted December 31, 2002 Yes Jamie.. a petcock could be added which would be an apreciated modification later on, but the 24X19 Griffin has an angled (inward) lower radiator outlet that is hard to find a hose for and an inline petcock may lessen this problem for a "JTR offset SBC".The present lower radiator hose requires a stiff spring to keep it from collapsing and an inline pet **** may take out the kink. In my pictures you can see the inline hose radiator filler makes quite a "trick" tailored upper hose with "no kinks". I was worried about vibration to the aluminum radiator by a dirct welded flanges. My steel mounts on top and bottom do not touch the radiator in anyway and are cushioned by the rubber strips. I saw in "High Performance Chevy" that an aluminum radiator was modified to your suggestions. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gene_w Posted December 31, 2002 Share Posted December 31, 2002 Originally posted by Tomahawk Z:[QBThis is (24X19) the biggest Griffin that you can get in the early Z[/QB] Hey, now...that's not exactly true. I've got a 26x19 Griffin(Ford in/outlets) in my '75 and it fits beautifully. I am assuming that the side tanks are the same on both the Ford and Chevy radiators; I don't see why they would be different. It does interfere with the stock L6 equipment (AFM and carbon canister), but that won't be a problem once I install the 302. For now, I've unbolted the AFM to give the 1/4" clearance I needed there and moved the carbon canister temporarily by tieing it back to some other bracket on the side. I haven't got any pictures of my install yet, but the 26" radiator fits perfectly between the frame rails with approx. 1/16" clearance on each side. Nice and snug with a thin rubber pad slipped in there. Lower mount is made of part of a bed frame and two highly modified Z motor mounts (hey, it was all free and you can't say I'm not resourceful!). Upper mount is a "custom" designed (with a bench vise and hammer) 1/8"x1.5" aluminum bracket that bolts on with one bolt in the center and hooks over the top of the radiator with a rubber insulator. I am very happy with the install and found that that extra couple inches made any sort of shrouding unnecessary, as the radiator completely fills the opening in the front support. I drive my Z every day and believe that having this larger radiator will help tremendously in slow traffic once I swap in the larger engine. Gene Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Anonymous Posted December 31, 2002 Share Posted December 31, 2002 Anyone "shoehorn a "26X19 SBC Griffin into the first generation Z?? A "Ford" Griffin 26 X 19 radiator apparently works to your application but the distance between my 280Z frame rails is right at 25 3/8 inch taking into consideration there are differences in these cars. Granted the 24X19 Chev radiator is only 23 1/2 at the narrowest width but where it blossoms out at the full 24 inches is at the lower portion which goes between the frame rails and according to Giffin at the time of order from Summit, the 26 inch Griffin was also the widest at the bottom of the radiator. Also my 24X19 inch Griffin radiator also fit lower than the JTR specifications of the lower radiator mount as described in the manual Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gene_w Posted December 31, 2002 Share Posted December 31, 2002 Originally posted by Tomahawk Z:...but the distance between my 280Z frame rails is right at 25 3/8 inch taking into consideration there are differences in these cars. Granted the 24X19 Chev radiator is only 23 1/2 at the narrowest width but where it blossoms out at the full 24 inches is at the lower portion which goes between the frame rails... Boy, I guess there are some differences in these cars! I measured and test-fit my 26" radiator in both an early '74 260 and my '75 280, and it was perfect in both. Both cars measured just over 26" between the frame rails. I guess I was wrong in ASSuming they were all the same. And yes, my radiator is at the widest at the lower part where it sits between the frame rails. And I don't think I would call it "shoehorned" in, as it seems to be a perfect 'drop-in' fit and the use of a couple thin rubber pads allows me more freedom in my lower mounts. The lower mount simply had to hold the radiator up without the worry of centering it as well. I guess in the end, you provided the best answer to the original post. I got off track and now see that he was asking about an L28et, which if he's using the stock EFI, the 26" will not fit without unbolting the AFM and pushing it to the side a bit. This is not a good idea for long-term use. Mine is only like this temporarily. Gene Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gene_w Posted December 31, 2002 Share Posted December 31, 2002 One more thing I forgot is that the Ford in/outlet locations are all wrong for the L6 and require lots of extra plumbing and puts the lower outlet right into the A/C compressor. Mine is currently a mess with long flex-hoses running all around. Once the 302 goes in, radiator plumbing will be a dream and everything will be in the right place. The Chevy in/outlet locations are better suited to the L6 engine. Gene Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Anonymous Posted December 31, 2002 Share Posted December 31, 2002 It would be nice if someone sucessfully shoehorned a SBC 26X19 Griffin aluminum radiator in a an early Z.. Apparently the 26X19 fits the 280 ZX Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Anonymous Posted December 31, 2002 Share Posted December 31, 2002 web page I have a few Yahoo photos (#5 and 7) of my 24X19 Griffin installation and upper mount I made with a strip of rubber beteen radiator and one bolt mount. I also made some shrouds out of fiberglass to block off the holes on each side of the oem radiator support. I used a radiator hose inline filler cap from Jegs in addition to the Griffin radiator cap which is inaccessible with the Tomahawk hood in place. I will eventually locate an inline lower radiator hose "petcock" . Very difficult to fit a fan shroud for a mechanical fan to the Griffin of this size --go with a Taurus electric fan.This is (24X19) the biggest Griffin that you can get in the early Z Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Corzette Posted December 31, 2002 Share Posted December 31, 2002 Well I did make my 26X19 Griffin fit but I wouldnt recommend it to anyone. I had the tabs welded on as well as the bottom pet **** . I had to tap in the lower sides a bit on each side to make it fit, but lucky for me everything works well...Ill post pics later at my site once I get the thing out of paint... CZ Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest 73TPIZ Posted December 31, 2002 Share Posted December 31, 2002 Same here as CZ, except I massaged the framerails a 1/4" on each side and used silicone to keep my 26x19 snug as a bug. Wouldn't recommend that, but it was my own personal way. the size does eliminate the need for filler pieces around the rad as it fits the opening perfectly. the silicone may keep it from vibrating more than a rubber strip would, but it will be interesting when i go to remove it for the engine bay painting. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest JAMIE T Posted January 1, 2003 Share Posted January 1, 2003 I think Mikelly has a 26" Griffen in his 260Z. I'm pretty sure of it. We have talked about it a couple of times. Tomahawk, I would always insulate the rad, never solid mount it. I was just talking about mounts that could be cushioned, like with some sway bar bushings(becuase they are cheap), I have done that before. I have mounted engines the same way. LOL. Also, about the rad hoses, I plane on usign mandrel bends to make mine, then just use rubber for the connections. That eliminates crushed hoses, plus, it will pretty much last forever(especially after its powdercoated) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Anonymous Posted January 1, 2003 Share Posted January 1, 2003 I was cosidering widening and boxing the front frame rails to accomodate the 26 inch radiator but bought the radiator when I had the money and before the engine was in. I didn't know where to widen and how much or where to locate the radiator.The radiator had to be dropped lower than expected but actually as close as possible to the radiator cross support panel without rubbing. The 26 inch radiator would be a better choice for hose selection and shroud..... if one is used to weilding a sawzall and weld a vertical bead. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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