Guest zfan Posted April 9, 2001 Share Posted April 9, 2001 Im currently using 60 amp Hatachi alt. Has anyone converted to gm one wire high amp unit. My relay is on the firewall and GM is a built in model. Anyone with experience or info on doing the swap would be appreciated. Mike Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mike kZ Posted April 10, 2001 Share Posted April 10, 2001 For a one wire Alt, all you need is 12v from the battery. If this is for an L6 you will need to modify the brackets. ------------------ http://members.tripod.com/~SnowSurfer/mikekz1.html Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Anonymous Posted April 10, 2001 Share Posted April 10, 2001 Alot (maybe most, can't speak for them) of the converted V8 z's are running the 1 wire altenator. As I recall (and wired mine per JTR's book) its the one original thick white/red wire that went to the original alternator gets connected to the big post on the GM alternator (put a 14 ga. fusable link in this wire to keep from frying things should something bad happen). Then on the side of the altenator is two small spade terminals. one of them (it was the one farthest from the main battery output on the alternator on mine, GM made different versions so check that part out) is the voltage sensing wire which I believe actually energizes the deal so it can begin charging (which is why bump starting a dead battery is fruitless). This small wire goes directly to the positive battery terminal. The other terminal (if your running a 280z, otherwise ignore using it) can be connected to the blue wire that went to the voltage regulator to operate the charge warning light. You can get rid of your fenderwell mounted regulator as none of that is used anymore. If I mistated anything someone jump in, I don't claim to be a electrical expert (like at all..), matter of fact, for me it was the most worrysome part of the swap, although it was actually pretty easy once I looked at it and had it running... Good luck with it, Lone [This message has been edited by lonehdrider (edited April 10, 2001).] Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest zfan Posted April 14, 2001 Share Posted April 14, 2001 Picked up a GM 105 amp altenator from Summit. Its a one wire type, 70 amps at 2200 rpm. If this does not work well then shoot me! Rick (Fast Frog) Nice talking to you the other day. Thanks for your imput. Mike Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BLKMGK Posted April 15, 2001 Share Posted April 15, 2001 Just a side note - I'm chasing a driver's side alternator bracket from a 'Vette that's SUPPOSED to work with a short water pump. It's $15 (!!) from GM I'm told and made of aluminum. Don't have it in my hot hands but a friend claims to have used one on three cars and is going to get it for me Will update when I actually getit... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest kc6wfs Posted April 15, 2001 Share Posted April 15, 2001 BLKMGK, I have a short waterpump and also have my alt on the drivers side. What I did was use B+M's brackets I had laying around. You can see it on my web page pics. Dave ------------------ www.geocities.com/kc6wfs/240z.html www.NitroPhotos.com Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest zfan Posted April 18, 2001 Share Posted April 18, 2001 Ok guys I got the gm 105 amp altenator, one wire type. Im also currently using a Ford remote selenoid. The tech told me to run a 8 gauge wire from the alt. to the hot side of the selenoid and just bypass the stock red and white wire origally posted to the alt. Problem is gauge doesnt appear to work is this becouse original red/white wire goes to fuse box? I also disconnected the regulator all together. Car starts but doent want to idle and when I loosened distributor and set timing the timing would jump as the idle surged back and forththus going from lets say plus or minus 10 degrees in the idle surges. Tightened down distributor at 14 degrees and car doesnt want to run especially if I turn on electric fan etc.. also shouldnt the red/white wire be connected to the hot post on the new alt, not hot side of selenoid and if so where do you connect two wires from old alt. I think the tech was wrong but wanted to get imput from members before changing everything again. Thanks for any help you can give!! Mike Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Anonymous Posted April 18, 2001 Share Posted April 18, 2001 See my post above for hookup. I believe the white-red does need to be hooked up, it goes to the fuse box as you said, at least thats how it worked in the JTR scheme. The other two wires that came from the original alternator can be trimmed back and are not used. The gauge isn't working because the juice comes in from the white red wire thru the gauge then into the fuse panel. I'd hook it up just like the original alternator without the two smaller wires, and as I posted above, put one wire from the positive battery to the voltage sensing line on the GM alternator and you should be good to go. Remember that the alternator needs to see 2000 rpms or there abouts to begin charging, once its gets to that RPM once, it'll charge at idle, a slight annoyance perhaps, but not a big problem (afterall, who drives they're Z under 2000 rpms?) Good luck with it, Lone [This message has been edited by lonehdrider (edited April 18, 2001).] Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest jcp240z Posted April 18, 2001 Share Posted April 18, 2001 For a true 1-wire alternator you need to hook up the original white/red wire or else you stand the chance of frying your amp meter. You'll also need to run a 8 gage from the alt to the battery to act as a voltage sensing line. If you don't then the system will keep 14volts at the alternator but it may not be that at the battery due to resistance in the old wiring. This will effectively bypass the amp meter. What is an easier install because you don't have to worry about harness resistance and undercharging is a GM 3 wire alt like lonehdrider described. As long as you connect your loads to the alt side of the amp meter you should have no problem (unless your cranking your 1000W stereo with the motor off) [This message has been edited by jcp240z (edited April 18, 2001).] Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Modern Motorsports Ltd Posted April 18, 2001 Share Posted April 18, 2001 quote: Originally posted by BLKMGK: Just a side note - I'm chasing a driver's side alternator bracket from a 'Vette that's SUPPOSED to work with a short water pump. It's $15 (!!) from GM I'm told and made of aluminum. .. Jim, I got that one on my bench. Ran it for a year or two upside down as I like my alt. low. Well right side up but put alt. underneath instead of above, I needed a 3/16's or so spacer under it to fit my pulley's/swp setup. that's an 82 'vette alt. bracket AIR, 80/81 were iron or pre 80's were iron/don't recall, anyhow yeah it's a nice piece/make sure it's not cracked or weld it up if it is. Mine's still taped on my bench with bolts/spacer but I wouldn't sell if for $15 as it cost me a chunk more than that. I'm still a huge fan of this transdapt mount that has my alt beside my balancer/have to wait till schools done to start getting pics rolling of that/brakes/wheels/etc etc... ------------------ Of all the things I've lost, I miss my mind the most. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BLKMGK Posted April 19, 2001 Share Posted April 19, 2001 Ross, down low works fine? SWP? Driver's side right? That would be sweet, we'll see what my friend turns up. This will be a new piece BTW. I'd like room up top for the A/C down the road. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pparaska Posted April 19, 2001 Share Posted April 19, 2001 Jim, Ross has a ZX, not a Z, so things are different for fitting alternators. You should run an 8 gage from the alternator output to the battery cable side of the solenoid - with a 12 gage fusible link at the alternator. Also hook the white/red wire up as it serves the fusebox and the amp gage. If you're worried about pulling too much current from the stock wiring and that white/red wire, then just don't grab any power from the dash harness or what comes from it to the front of the car. Use fusible links and fuses from the output of the alternator or at the battery cable connection on the Ford solenoid to power high current items like the cooling fan, headlights, ignition, electric choke, etc. Relays, Relays, Relays . As for the Amp gage, I suggest removing it and bolting the wires to it together with a brass screw and nut. They go bad anyway and disable the car. ------------------ Pete Paraska - 73 540Z - Marathon Z Project pparaska@home.com Pete's V8 Datsun 240Z Pages Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest zfan Posted April 19, 2001 Share Posted April 19, 2001 Thanks everyone for your help. I called powermaster and they said the altenator has a built in sensor thus why they call it one wire. For my Z, He said to run the stock red/white wire to the back of gold post on alt. and on the same terminal run an 8 gauge wire to the hot side of the Ford remote selenoid making sure at least 8 gauge wire is used from starter to selenoid as well. This he says will take care of all. there are no other terminals etc on this type altenator only a ford sensor feed. Thanks Mike Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Anonymous Posted April 19, 2001 Share Posted April 19, 2001 Hmmm, wonder if they bridged the voltage sensor wire to the big terminal inside the alternator. Interesting. Good to hear you got it sorted out. Lone ------------------ http://datsun240v8z.virtualave.net/index.html Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest zfan Posted April 20, 2001 Share Posted April 20, 2001 Ok guys, Im back again and getting frustrated with this pos. Hooked up original red/white wire and 8 gauge wire to main post on altenator. 8 gauge wire goes to hot side of remote selenoid. Car ran ok, had to set timing with timing light at 20 degrees to get it to run ok. But atleast it would idle now. Found out it actually does have a sensor prong on altenator,I was given wrong info. But according to powermaster rep I get it to sense need to charge by the 8 gauge direct wire to hot side of selenoid. I drove car around the block with taurus fan on high and amp gauge still drops below centerline on gauge,meaning not enough juice is getting to charge battery if im not mistaken? Checked wire to remote selenoid(hotside) that goes to starter and it is maybe 10/12 gauge wire. Could this be part of the problem, not enough wire to carry sufficient charge to battery when under load? Also Pete you mentioned running the fan and pump etc.. hot wires to the hot post on the altenator thus decreasing load on the original wiring,fuse box etc.. Im also going to replace fuse box with 12 circuit painless fuse box as soon as I figure this mess out. One pain in the a--! at a time though. Also on my set up the battery is in the trunk in a taylor battery box with 1 gauge lines to starter. Do not see any problems there. Battery was tested and said to be in good shape. Anyone got any other good ideas. Getting kind of old and getting desperate! Mike Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pparaska Posted April 20, 2001 Share Posted April 20, 2001 Sounds to me like you have the taurus fan wired to the stock wiring and not straight off the battery connection on the Ford solenoid or the alternator. So when that high current fan turns on, you see the drain on the stock wiring via the Amp gage. What you're not seeing is the probably large current that the alternator is sending to the Ford Solenoid terminal and the battery via the battery cable. Another thing worth mentioning is to make sure the alternator is grounded well to the engine and the engine is grounded well to the frame. On that note, I took no chances and ran a 2 gage (probably should have gone to 0 or 00 gage) welding cable from the relocated battery's negative post to the engine block near the starter. From there I ran an 8 gage ground strap wire to the chassis and a separate 8 gage wire to the alternator case pivot mounting bolt. ALso from that same point I connected the OE ground wire (10 gage black) and ran another 8 gage wire forward to the headlight and fan relays near the radiator. My theory was that the negative side of the circuit is just as important as the positive and a spot welded steel unibody might not be the best conductor over long distances. ------------------ Pete Paraska - 73 540Z - Marathon Z Project pparaska@home.com Pete's V8 Datsun 240Z Pages Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.