makaofox Posted March 16, 2015 Share Posted March 16, 2015 Previously I had a R180 welded diff in my 76 Datsun. Since soon I will be doing a 2jz swap, I wanted to get the rear end dialed in prior to doing the swap. Purchased wolf creek cv axles, r200 Diff (welded), modified driveshaft, rt diff mount with poly bushing, techno toy tuning r200 mustache bar and some stage 8 fasteners. Basically its been hell since I started the swap, but mainly my differential has been giving me one heck of a ride. So I had a z31 R200 non-lsd welded. Now I go to put in my stub axles the passenger side goes in fine (I checked I put the correct length with the corresponding side). However, the driver side (short side) is giving me the issues. From the start I tried to put it in and it was very loose, just keeps popping out without effort. So I checked the other side and it had a circlip which clipped in and keeps the axle in. The driver side however has 3 grooves and I wasn't able to get the circlip in. Then one day I beat it a few times and it went in and was in there solid without the clip. So I though ok maybe it was really in there? Nope! Installed it and now the stubbie comes out and it drove but I knew something was odd. So jacked it up tonight and saw the axle was going in and out. So issue number 1 what the heck is going on with my stub axle. Why isn't it going in and clipping it? Now I ordered 4 new clips but how do I install them, when I try and put it in the groove and tap the axle in it moves out of place. Now before I tried putting it on the stub itself and getting it in there but that didn't work out too well at all. Im almost certain this diff and stub go together. So any help would be great! Issue number 2, uninstalling my wolf creek axles to get the stub axle off to examine it and I cant! the adapter to axle WONT LET GO! I have unbolted the 6 bolts and the adapter is just not letting the axle go. So any ideas? I tried a hammer and screw driver but not a ton of room and im not trying to destroy the metal. Now I have greased it and im thinking the grease is using itself like a suction and not letting go of the adapter. This is a real pain and I DONT want to drop the entire subframe again just to see whats wrong with my stub when I can remove it once the adapter lets go of the axle. Any help would be appreciated!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
trackzpeed Posted March 16, 2015 Share Posted March 16, 2015 Have you tried a slide hammer on the adapter? That's how I pull my wheel side stub axels.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
makaofox Posted March 16, 2015 Author Share Posted March 16, 2015 Well the stub axle slides in and out freely its not correctly seated in the diff. That's part of the circlip issue. But the adapter that connects the axle to the stub axle is held by 6 bolts. I removed the 6 bolts and it would release. A slide hammer wouldn't work because the stub already comes out half way so it wont be effective, plus lack of room. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
makaofox Posted March 20, 2015 Author Share Posted March 20, 2015 Well removed everything and took the adapters off. The grease was holding onto them for dear life. Required a lot of work to take them off. Also ended up getting a diff from a local. Its an R200 3.54 welded which blows because I like the 3.7. So if you buy wolf creek axles and pack the grease try to clean up as much as you can on the lip! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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