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HeadGasket Questions


Ron240zxt

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Hello all,

Need to get rid of the SCE gasket, Leaks like a old tolet. Figure this to be the problem of my pressure build up in the raditor and the nice white smoke blowing out of exhaust if I free rev it.

 

Question is i have 88mm over bore Forged pistons With factory P90 head,ARP Headstuds What Gasket do you recommend? Looking at running upto 20psi. Planning for the future state that is. 2thumbs.gif

 

Thanks for the replys

Ron

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Guest Ian turbo240

I have had very good luck with the HK$ gasket. Although it is expensive, it did not leak any fluids. I used some Permatex Copper spray-on gasket sealer during assembly. Now that I have torn the engine down, the sealer is easy to remove for the next use. From what I understand, the HK$ gasket is reusable? I hop this is true. Maybe someone can clarify?

 

Ian

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The problem probably isn't the type of head gasket, it's that you allowed preigntion to take place. My philosphy is that the head gasket is like a fuse, it's the first to blow and tell you something is wrong. It's alot cheaper than those pistons you have got in there, check fuel & timing before you get big holes in those nice pistons.

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No I want to see holes in pistons. ;)

 

The HKS one is rumored to be reusable, why don't you try it and see.

 

He could also have a slight warpage too. I decked my block and had my head true'd, and have not managed to blow anything, and I had some awful bouts with detonation getting it tuned. Of course I lift, but still....

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SCE - you mean the copper gasket people, right?

 

Do I take this to mean that SCE has a copper head gasket for the L-series? I did not know that.

 

If this is a solid copper gasket, I'd be really surprised if it blew due to detonation - it ought to be pretty strong. I'd be more inclined to think that the problem could be more in the area of the mating surfaces not being perfectly flat - the metal gaskets are much less forgiving about that. Did you have the head and block checked for straightness? Were both surfaces (head and block) perfectly clean before you installed the gasket?

 

The copper gasket ought to be reusable, too (you should confirm this with SCE first) - you might try reinstalling it with clean mating surfaces and the afore-mentioned copper gasket sealer applied to both sides.

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Originally posted by Lockjaw:

I like the good old factory nissan gasket. That is what I am using, and it is holding 23 psi.

This brings up a good point - my personal feeling is that most head gasket problems are due to improper head torquing and installation problems, rather than the gasket being weak. Lockjaw's post pretty much supports this notion.

 

You should be using at a minimum the turbo head bolts (preferably ARP studs), torqued in the proper sequence to the manufacturer's recommended setting, and only after the engine has been sitting overnight (stone cold). Also, I always re-torque after heat-cycling the engine when the gasket is new. I generally do this three or four times. When I retorque, I always back off the fastener about a quarter turn before re-tightening.

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