Lockjaw

Can you give me a ballpark on pricing? I don't want to go crazy, but I would like to improve the flow. Rebello will do mostly work on the exhaust port, I have discussed things with them. I have a mild cam, slightly warmer then stock. You would have to pay attention to be able to hear it, but if you were beside my car when idling, you would probably hear it from the 3 in exhaust under the car.

Please weigh in on who ported your turbo head, and what was done. I did a web search and found Lone Wolf Performance, and their prices seem pretty reasonable, anyone used them? What sort of improvements did you see over a stock head? Thanks

You need to get your Gtech checked. I would like to weigh in on this subject. My friends and I took a p79 and milled it 110 thousandths, and ran a nice big crower in it, and it required a little octane boost with 93 octane gas. Now I don't know about the CC's of this head versus the Maxima head, but I would bet on needing some good timing control to keep detonation at bay. The bottom line is running that head on a flat top engine is not the thing to do for someone who is not very versed in Z engines, and tuning them. Run a p79 or p90 milled about 75 or the N42 and be safe.

You should loosen the cam towers and tap them with a mallet and tighten until the cam turns. I presume the rocker arms are not on the head right? Then position the sprocket, insert the bolt, and slowly tighten it, and if you have the dowel pin and the hole in the sprocket lined up, and haven't popped the tensioner, it should go right on.

If the FPR is from a 280Zx it should be ok. You don't say wether it is lower or higher then stock. It should be about 30 psi at idle, if you disconnect the vaccuum source, it should be about 36psi. If it varies a little, thats not a big deal, but I would want to make sure the PSI increases when you are under boost.

The dyno tells a different story, my power dropped off substantially after 6k with a stock cam, I have a hotter then stock one now, and can turn the engine to 7k, which is where JWT set the limiter with the stock cam, but it did not feel especially powerful. With the hotter cam it pulls there easily, but Until I fix it, I cannot dyno it to see. I would seriously encourage to maximize your power in the 3k to 6k range, and shift "around" 6.5k for best results. Revving the snot out of the engine doesn't make it last any longer. Look at the dyno results people have posted, these engines don't make big power up to 7k easily.

I have a Kamereri.

Sport 450 from JWT, has the stage 4 turbine, 60 trim TO4E compressor, stock manifold, 3 inch exhaust.

I hope you have good luck with Turbonetics, I wouldn't use them personally. I am currious, where did all the metal go from the wheel to housing contact? You may want to check out the intercooler and see if you can backflush it or something.

Is that the cam with a split profile, like 460 lift and 260/270 duration? If so that cam was always pretty finiky about what kind of head I used, and it really liked a shaved E88, which had combustion chambers like an E31. I ran it with an open chamber E88, and it ran pretty poorly, even with a flat top 280 bottom end. I also ran it in a p79 milled 80 thous. and it ran prety good there. If your cam is larger, I think you will want some compression to make it run to its potential. I liked the MSA cam that is 274 duration and 480 lift or whatever, its milder then the one I listed above. It always ran good in any engine/head combo I ever tried, and with a nice high compression 2.6, it would turn 7500 rpms with my triples and header. I got froggy one time and put the first cam in my turbo engine, man it sounded good, but it wouldn't fall out of a tree. You can always snatch your head off and mill it some, probably be a good idea to check with Norm and see how much he thinks would be safe for you.

I use the bosch platinum with 2 electrodes, since its way easier to index, and they seem to work well. Make sure the heat range is right, I would run a 7 in the NGK, in a turbo. Anyway, I was making 19 psi on the stock 300zx coil with no misfires. Making more boost then that on the old turbo, with race fuel.

I am not surprised about the housing causing you to go a little slower on the launch, my increasing to a stage V from a stage lll made a DRAMATIC difference. Where I used to be able to blow off street tires at will in first or second, well that doesn't happen as much with the larger wheel. However, if I break the tires loose, its all over the limiter, and the power from midrange on up is superior. You have to find the sweet spot, for me, it seems launching around 3500 and just dropping the clutch seems to get me moving before the serious boost hits, and the car leaves and runs 1.90 60 foots on drag radials, with full air pressure. I never did try to run it dropped before I blew the HG. Also the CF clutch is a POS. I am going to get an ACT eventually. I am unmotivated right now.

Get a bigger turbo, intercooler, and better injection. Yes a stock turbo can make 280 hp, but not efficiently. I made 307 corrected, about 299 or so uncorrected on my old set-up, and expect more with the new. Also, you need a 3 in mandrel bent exhaust with a straight thru muffler, I am telling you, nothing short of NOS makes as much of a difference, and it is the building block for every other mod you will do. I dropped almost 9/10ths of a second in the 1/4 and picked up 7mph just changing from my sappy whatever exhaust to a 3 inch. I think I ran a 13.5@105, added exhaust, and got down to 12.8's at 112, ended up running 12.65's with DR's, and then swapped turbo's, and ran faster on pump them I ran on race before. Good luck. Oh and dropping everything into a 240 will shed about 600+ pounds, which makes a HUGE difference.

Pimp??? Maybe he just doesn't spend money on anything else.

I have the nissan one, and it is not as user friendly as perhaps one you could adjust while its on the engine, but then I always wondered what would happen if those set screws or whatever loosened up? I think that the gear is useful for toying around with cam timing, depending on the size of your cam. I heard a rumor you could pick up some gains by retarding the stock cam about 4 degree's, but would have to check the source and see. Where it is more beneficial is in an engine with slack in the timing chain, but I guess I don't have to worry with that either, thanks to the kameri kit I have.

Wow! For the life of me' date=' I can't get better than a 1.89 60' with my BFG drag radials.[/quote'] Thats about what I get, but I don't let alot of air out of them.

You should run an F11 emulsion tube, I found a performance gain running those. DOn't remember but I think the F2 is the really rich one, with no restriction in fuel flow, and if so, not right for your application. On my 40 DCOE set up, with 33 mm chokes, I was running 155 mains, and 190 or so aircorrector. If it stubles off idle, go up a size on the pump jet. Here is the "general" rule of thumb. Your choke size times 4 for a starting point on the main jet, and you main jet plus 40 for the air corrector. This should get you in the ball park. Now for the fun statement. IMO, it mattes not what you have done to the engine, the carb is a fixed diameter, and only flows so much air, no matter what you have done to the engine. Once jetted properly, you should be able to move the carbs from your engine to about any L6 without issues. I could move mine from a 2.4 to a 2.8, with no adjustments, other then perhaps idle jet tweeking. Man I envy you, nothing sounds finer then an L6 with side drafts.

The proper way to do it with any MAF set-up is to recirculate. As the other people mentioned, a speed density system does not require it. My JWT set-up, which uses a MAF had a very pronouced flat spot when you shifted gears, it was very rich, and the car was way more fun to drive once I recirculated the BOV. And while some people like it to make noise, trust me, it makes plenty of noise recirculating, trust me, you can hear it, and so could the cops I BOV'd 3 times getting on the interstate last year, without speeding. Got to love a T5 and 3.90's. Man were they ever looking.

I don't buy an electrical issue keeping the turbo from spooling. What you need to do first is verify the valve on the swing valve assembly is still there, and covering the hole in the turbine housing. Sometimes they fall off, and it won't make boost. Then make sure the swing valve is working, ie the valve actually covers the hole completely, and that the motion of it is proper. Then make sure the wastegate actuator rod is putting tension on the swing valve when its all connected. Check the vacuum lines going to the WG actuator, and make sure none are cracked. You may want to bend the actuator bracket buy pushing up towards the firewall, which will add pressure on the WG actuator, and allow you to make more boost. Be careful though, this is like brylcreem, a little bit goes a LONG way. Finally what are you using for a boost guage? Make sure its a good one. Then make sure the dumb little pressure relief valve sitting on top of the intake is not popped open, or remove it and replace it will a plug.

If you are worried, put a mechanical gauge on it and check it. Most likely your sender is going bad, they don't last forever.

You can get them from any piston maker, ie Ross, JE, Arias, ect, you just need to send them one of yours so they get the measurements right. You will likely have to get the small ends of your rods bushed for floating pistons pins, and should let the piston maker send you the pins BEFORE getting that done. There is alot of info out there concerning forged pistons, the search fucntion, if its working, should really help.

3 inch mandrel bent exhaust with a straight thru muffler.

A cam change is not a bad idea. The stock NA cams don't run as well as the stock turbo cams, from my experience. There are 3 stock turbo grinds, J which is 81 -82 turbo manual, B which is 81-82 turbo auto, and M which is 83 turbo manual or auto and including hydraulic. I have personally never seen a J, they seem to be sort of rare I guess, but have run a B and an M, and I like the B grind. My B pulls pretty strong up to about 6000 or so. I switched to a mild crower, 218 degree's duration @ .050 and .428 lift on 110 LCA, and it will bump the limiter pretty hard in the first couple of gears, although JWT has made that a fairly graceful affair. I haven't dyno'd the car though, so I don't really know what the differences are, although I can say I haven't noticed a loss in bottom end or response, and there is more in the midrange and upper RPMS. If you don't have one already a 3 inch mandrel exhaust is your best bang for the buck mod. As for your hybrid depending on what compressor wheel you have, it may need more boost to really perform. I know my turbo that had the H3 compressor wheel did not really start making me happy until the boost was up around 14 or so psi. The 60 trim I have now is much better at lower settings, and really comes alive when its up around 16 or so. Since you did not specify what your specs were, I don't know what else to tell you there. Several manufacturers make cams, just depends what you want to spend. You can get one like mine from Comp cams, their 260H, Web cams has a nice turbo one that James is running, some of the guys are running Isky's, I think it all boils down to personal taste. You can also spend some money and get one from JWT (its supposed to be something) or Sunbelt, probably the same technology as JWT. Some of the guys running the new sunbelt cams have been raving about them. Personally I like my cam, its bigger then stock, just enough to make the car sound healthy, but unless you are a Z car guy, you probably wouldn't notice. It idles nicely at 750 with just a slight lope, although I doubt it added a lot of extra power. I suspect maybe 10 to 15. Be interesting to see the dyno when I get it all back together. Good luck.

if you want to get froggy, I have always wanted to run a 240 crank in an 89mm bore 2.8 liter block, and turbo it.

Actually, once I install it, I should be able to answer the question of removing the head while leaving the chain it. I was thinking perhaps you could actually do that. The parts are beautiful too. Its hard to not appreciate the workmaship and quality that went into the manufacture of them. Plus you know, the few of us that have them, well we are exclusive. I also saw the benefit of the set-up was controlling the chain for these higher output turbo engines. Mine goes from off boost to on, and into the rev limiter in first gear very quickly, this pulley set-up should really help there. I suspect it would help more for people making more power then me too. I would also expect them to vigorously persue anyone copying their design. Its obvious from looking at the pieces that it is a very well thought out and engineered kit. When I say it looks to good to put in an engine, you have to appreciate the quality of design that makes it up. Its awesome looking. To bad it doesn't sit outside where someone can see it.