zgeezer Posted March 2, 2016 Share Posted March 2, 2016 The pivot points support the windshield wipers. They are located at each end of your windshield wiper transmission. Often, they are frozen or have considerable drag. They are easy to disassemble, derust, and regrease. The pivot is a steel shaft supported by two steel bushings set into the pot-metal housing that is tapped for 3 small bolts. Most pivots have lost their pivot point cap, which was designed to keep the steel to steel contract between the bushings and the shaft dry. You can disassemble and re-grease the pivot points without removing them from the flat rods that make up the windshield wiper transmission. Here's how: 1. Remove the wipers from the pivot points. 2. Remove the entire transmission assembly from the car. 3. Inspect the pivot point. You should see the shaft starts with a threaded portion leading to a splined shoulder and then a collar that is seated on a steel bushing. These parts usually are well rusted. 4. The collar is, in fact, a wire "C" clip. A rounded wire, not a typical flat "c" clip. If your pivot point has heavy rust or a layer of build up, you might not recognize the wire clip as a clip. It is seated in a recess cut into the shaft. 5. Spread this clip with a very small pointed hook. I used the smallest flat screwdriver I could find. Once the wire clip is spread it is easy to work it out of the recess and up the shaft. These are very easy to lose and I've never seen them for sale. Remove the clip and place it in a magnetic bowl or cup. 6. Screw a nut over the threaded portion of the pivot shaft. I used the cap nut that secures the wiper blade assembly to the pivot. 7. With the threads protected by the nut or cap nut, gently tap with a lead or other "soft" hammer. 8. Bear in mind that the body of the pivot is made of "pot metal". It can be broken when you drive the shaft out. Don't use a BFH.. 9. I supported the flat side of the pivot point on a small open vise. 10 If the shaft does not move after receiving a few taps of the small soft hammer, then soak it over night in a container of light oil. I used a pint of A/T fluid, but I think any commercial penetrating oil will work. 11. After removal, clean both the shaft and two steel bushings. I held the shaft in a small vice and scrubbed it with a piece of 1500 grit wet/dry sandpaper soaked in light oil. I cleaned the bushings by wrapping the same piece of 1500 grit wet/dry sandpaper soaked in light oil around a .32 caliber brass bore brush. The bushings were cleaned in the same fashion as cleaning the bore of a .22 or .32 caliber firearm. 12. Once the shaft and the bushings are clean, smooth, and dry, I packed the pivot housing bore with a heavy bearing grease used to pack wheel bearings of boat trailers. This grease is designed to repel water. [Actually, I think all grease repels water to a lesser or greater degree.]. I think you could use any quality heavy grease. 13 Drop the greased shaft into the greased pivot housing, place the cleaned and greased wire "c" clip over the shaft and work it down the shaft until it seats in the recess cut into the shaft. I used a deep well socket, I believe a 10 or 12 mm socket, to push the wire "c" clip squarely down the shaft. 14. The last step is to push onto the pivot point shaft, a plastic/rubber cap that is designed to slow or prevent water intrusion . These are available for a couple of bucks off the internet. Google 240z wiper pivot seals. Sorry for the lack of photos. G Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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