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LT1 not fitting -- firewall touching egr valve & oil pre


Guest Anonymous

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Guest Anonymous

I've got a 95 corvette lt1 and it don't wanna go in.

I can relocate the oil pressure senders with an elbow, but what to do about an EGR valve that hits the firewall??? Anyone have this problem, and what was the solution? If not, any suggestions? I'm about 3/4" from getting it to line up to the motor mounts when it hits the f/w.

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Guest Anonymous

Get rid of the egr valve. Make a block off plate to the shape of the valve and get rid of associated hardware. Street and performance also sells a block off plate for this . I did this on my 93 lt-1 with out computer realted issues. Its obd 1 though. Ibelieve your is obd 2. I'm sure a reporgram could be done to eliminate any error code from the missing egr. Also you can relocate the sender to just above the oil filter and plug the place it's at now. Good luck. Mark

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Guest Anonymous

emissions rules in MO require me to use EGR.

ugh.

I even have to use an AIR pump for the converter.

no shit.

Anyway, can someone explain the EGR valve to me? Is it possible to relocate it? What is the silver tube going from the intake manifold to the back of the valve? Is it a plunger of some sort or is it just a vacuum line? My Corvette manuals are of little help.

And it's OBD-I so I will be using LT1Edit -- mainly to tweak the a/f curve for the supercharger.

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Guest Anonymous

Wheres it located on the engine? Any chance of just notching the firewall for it? I know theres concern of the structurality of the car if the firewall is distubed, but a small section cut and a parameter of steel to frame the hole shouldn't cause much problem. If you've ever punched a hole in the z's firewall, you'd be dismayed to find that it is very thin, maybe 18 ga (or maybe less).

 

There is of course also the oldest known solution to mankind... A BFH (large hammer)!!!!! But then thats a bit unsightly if its somewhere that you can see it, the metal would be easy to stretch some clearance into though, even with a little body hammer.

 

Just some idea's if you really have to run it, and can't relocate it.

 

Regards,

 

Lone

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I believe in my reading about the LT1 engine that the EGR is an integral part of the air/fuel/timing mix that allows a signigicant improvement in gas mileage by allowing leaner A/F ratio and more spark timing for low speed operation.

 

Of course, most of us don't have much concern about gas mileage, or we'd keep the original engine, but if I were not going to do much in the way of modifying the engine for more power (just slap in the LT1 w/stock management and call it quits) I'd try to keep the EGR...

 

icon_smile.gif

Brad

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Guest super280z

i'd suggest making the block off plates like was mentioned above sure you're gonna have to get LT1 edit anyway unless you get a burned pcm. how did you plan to disable the VATS? im sure that you allready know that the motor will not work unless you do this. but since you wanted to use this specific powerplant, it's gonna take some money. (hotrodding's great aint it!) try to make a friend in the inspection sticker biz and make the plates. or, get after that firewall with a big hammer like lone said. good luck

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Guest Anonymous

I'm usually pretty stubborn. I will be using LT1Edit to remove VATS and mod the a/f curve for the supercharger. I COULD remove the EGR and home I would still pass emissions, but I want to keep it and play by the rules for now. I'll be test fitting the engine again this weekend, and will make my decision on how to fix it by then. My options seem to be:

Modify the firewall

or

Attempt to move the engine forward a little more (maybe)

or

Attempt to relocate the EGR valve.

 

I like being creative so if I can't fix it by moving the engine up a little, I'm going to try and fab a mount to relocate the EGR. If that doesn't go over too well, then I'm going to modify the firewall.

 

Thanks for the ideas guys.

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Guest Anonymous

I posted a message in paint and body to reply to this and try to get some discussion in the assembly of a car, steps taken, paint first or last etc.

 

Regards,

 

Lone

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Glad it worked out! icon_smile.gif

 

I will be doing one of these swaps myself if I ever learn to weld well enough to replace a qtr panel and patch the fenders and remove the driprails.

 

Then it will be paint, wiring, brake/fuel lines, interior and FINALLY engine....

 

I'm just a glutton for punishment - I've always wanted to do a ground-up - always done engines, suspensions, brakes, bodywork (no welding) on the cars I've had in the past, and helped by brother restore a '66 Datsun 1600 (Short Windshield).

 

I'm gonna experience fun, pain, anxiety over every decision, but most of all SATISFACTION - especially the first time I crank it up!

 

icon_smile.gif

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  • 3 weeks later...
Guest Anonymous

Give that man a BEER .I'll send you a pic of mine installed egr blockoff etc .If you would like just ask .I stuck mine way back got out the old baby sledge and BEAT that tunnel. twak.gif back coolant lines are about 3/4" from fire wall .Also I don't think you could cut the firewall there If you want too keep your wiper motor icon_biggrin.gif Also Earls makes the hard line hookups I know you need for fuel lines.Order from summit or jegs don't direct order from Earls .They will charge you 30.00 shipping on a part that doesn't weigh an ounce.{American Express took care of that mistake}z-engine.jpg

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