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Painless wiring/fuse block


Guest zfan

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Has anyone replaced the crappy stock fuse block? I just purchased the painless 12 circuit fuse block from Summit and will install later this week.

 

Has anyone had any experience with this set up or have you replaced the stock block. The stock block does not allow for much additions not to mention old glass fuses suck. Anyway any hints or things to watch out for would be appreciated as Im no elecrical whizz! Thanks Mike

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I have the 18-circuit harness and mounted the fuse block on the wall near the drivers foot rest, next to the clutch pedal. I wanted to install it in the stock location but it was too big.

I don't know if the plastic wedge fuses are better than the glass tubes performance wise, but you will have more options in adding more wires with the PW block.

Owen

 

 

 

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http://www.homestead.com/s30z/index.html

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Guest Anonymous

quote:

Originally posted by Owen:

I have the 18-circuit harness and mounted the fuse block on the wall near the drivers foot rest, next to the clutch pedal. I wanted to install it in the stock location but it was too big.

I don't know if the plastic wedge fuses are better than the glass tubes performance wise, but you will have more options in adding more wires with the PW block.

Owen

 

Owen,

 

Might be a silly question buy how did it wire up? Does it replace the entire dash/engine wiring loom, or is it spliced into some remaining Datsun wiring? When I had my dash out I "tried" looking at my Datsun chassis shop manual wiring diagram and all I can say is, in order to use it, it definately would have needed to be blown up 1000%. Way, way, way down the road (or sooner if the stock loom fries) I might be looking into this. I've been thinking about a non-stock dash/console thats back a bit with maybe a polished tilt column/ignition switch (like the rods use). Anyway, any info would be appreciated.

 

Thanks,

 

Lone

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Lone,

The harness I have wires up just fine. I yanked out the old harness, leaving most of the components in place (dome light, door switches, rear defroster, etc) and then just laid out the new harness which is all labeled and color coded. The harness is for the headlites to taillites, no engine room harness except for alternator, etc. If you have EFI you need a separate harness.

You're right though, the old diagrams are impossible to read. I need to do some re-wiring for my wiper motor and stuff but I can't read the print! Im gonna scan my manual and enlarge the image in Photoshop.

I have the Ideal Z manual on cdrom but its PDF and kinda blurry too...

Owen

 

 

------------------

http://www.homestead.com/s30z/index.html

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