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Click,Click,Click


Guest harth

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Guest harth

I have a starting problem when the car is hot or cold, It sometimes clicks when trying to start it, It sounds like the starter engages but wont spin the motor,(It's not a low voltage click) I replaced the starter, did not help, went to a 900 cca battery and that did not help, I'm convinced its not a voltage problem because hot or cold it spins the motor very fast. Also the flywheel is brand new with the v8 install?? Any help would be great. Michael 280ZZ4

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Guest Anonymous

I had a similar problem with my conversion & did the same things you did. What I DIDN'T do was put a relay on the starter solenoid. While a direct feed was OK for the original 6 it just wasn't enuf with the 8.... Once I did that no more probs. To check it, try running a clean feed direct from the battery to the solenoid and see if the problem stops.

 

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http://www.ozemail.com.au/~zedskid

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I had the same sort of problem once, and it turned out to be a badly connected wire. It could be as simple as that, though you say you've replaced your starter, so you would probably have noticed. Are your battery terminals in good shape, and connected well to the lines to the starter?

 

 

 

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"Nothing is fool proof to a sufficiently talented fool."

 

Richard Lewis - 1972 240z, Powered by a Nissan 2.8L Turbo Inline 6.

Drax240's Turbo Site

Beginners Turbo FAQ & Answers

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Hmm, I had something similar, can't recall if I still had some clicking or not...the tiny module that surrounds my ignition key was worn and wiggling it would get it to start or shorting the exposed starter terminals. I've since collected some of those small 'D' size battery models. My experience was on my ZX, another time was on motor fireup after an engine swap and the engine grounding strap wasn't on yet.....

 

 

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Of all the things I've lost, I miss my mind the most.

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How do you know its not a "low voltage click"; did you put a volt meter on it while turning the ignition switch?

 

Most electrical problems are due to a bad groundwire somewhere in that circuit...the big problem comes when attempting to locate that "Bad Ground".

 

You have theses circuits/components to search:

1) Lock Cylinder/Ignition Switch

2) Starter/Solenoid

3) Wiring between the components

4) If you have a starter relay-then that is a probability as well.

5) Dead Battery/Battery that goes dead

6) Alternator whose voltage reg.stays open & allows the battery to go dead

 

My buddy & I were once working on an early 80's T/A & he had just rebuilt the motor; putting things back together & when it came time for start up....he'ld turn the key & the solenoid would click/but only once.

 

When he got under the car & put a volt meter on it-full voltage was indicated; yet while I turned the key...the solenoid clicked and the voltage dropped...nothing/ziltch.

 

Turned out the battery cable to the starter was loose even tho he "Knew" he had tightened it: bad connection...which is the same as a ground in the circuit: Check, Recheck & then recheck your rechecks of all the circuits involved; the problem is there-you just have to find it.

 

As Sherlock Holmes once said; after the obvious is dismissed as the problem then the un-obvious is the culprit...no matter how obsurd the un-obvious is/that is the culprit (Not exactly a direct quote-but you get the picture).

 

Kevin,

(Yea,Still an Inliner)

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about what you guys said about the relay, if you do a swap I STRONGLY suggest you use one! I put a chevy V6 in a datsun P/U and I noticed that the wires were getting ready to burn under the starter load. I used a starter relay from a old Dodge van. Only $10 for a new one from the local parts store.

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Definitely get a GOOD ground strap from the engine to the car, and from the battery to the car. Make sure the cable is in GOOD condition. I had a 200SX that had major electrical issues, all because the ground wire had somehow gotten battery acid in it was disrupting it's function!!!! Once that was taken care of, voila, no more issues! Try it; it's cheap, and it's good insurance anyway.

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Guest Anonymous

Yeah I had a similar incident when I swapped the engine. It would barely turn over and I put in a pretty high amp battery.

Really stupid fix, the negative cable at the battery used a cap screw to pinch the wire in there. A few twists with an allen wrench and vrrrooom. Or my dim right headlight.. (blown fuse...grr...) if I had used my dim headlight on my shoulders I would have checked that first... Doh.

 

Lone

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Hmm. I was working on a car lately that went click,click,click, and couldn't figure it out. The battery had a good charge, we were jumping it with a running car, the connection at the starter and positive post were tight, the positive battery cable was not warm (from too much resistance), and the 8 gage jumper cables got warm, even after a few seconds of holding the key to the click position.

 

Then nothing would work electrically. So I put the test leads of the voltmeter on the battery terminals and had the owner turn on the lights. Then I saw a spark in the crack between the negative cable end and the post. Checked the terminal and it was loose! Tightened the terminal and the car cranked like mad, without the jumper cables hooked up.

 

Yeah, check for the obvious stuff - all of it wink.gif.

 

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Pete Paraska - 73 540Z - Marathon Z Project

pparaska@home.com

Pete's V8 Datsun 240Z Pages

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