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proflo 3500 install started/gasgacinch? permatorque/printose


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Well I'm glad I got my EFI install started. About 3 wks late as I got sick/post degree completion etc. But on the mend and gotta get this wrapped up by Friday as I start my new job on Monday and don't want ANY big hiccups!

 

Intake/headers all removed (victor jr and performer 600 FS) and surfaces cleaned up...

 

Edelbrock manual says to use edelbrock gasgacinch on both intake and head surfaces and gasket surfaces....sounds like it might make any re and re in the future a huge pain in the ass?? Old gaskets I removed looked like they were well sealed and working fine..I was just going to use a few spots of felpro proline cobond (crazy glue for tacking gaskets in place basically) and then the typical loctite 598 ultrablack silicone for end seals (O2 sensor safe). As well edelbrock specified NO permatorque gaskets and to use printoseal1205 or equivalent.....quite sure I had permatorque on previously but I do have a set of 1205's here now for the install.....would the permatorque's (1204) have done any damage?. can't see any 'imprints' on the heads around any intake ports, coolant ports have a dirty ring around the collar even once cleaned/flat (razor blade smooth) so not too concerned but had to mention it...

 

I'm familiar with the 1204/1205 specs etc and looking for some realworld experiences with them and gasgacinch.....thanks!

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Guest Anonymous

I've used permagasket high tack on both surfaces, and RTV around the water ports, never had any leaks or problems on several engines I've done that way. I wasn't aware that O2 sensors were that fragile a thing and could be killed depending on what gasket compound you use? Injected motors.. hurumph...So many little things that are different...

 

Regards,

 

Lone

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I have both Gaskasinch and every color of Permatex RTV you can buy. It's all good stuff, but you were wise in making sure that what you use is "oxygen sensor safe" for EFI applications. Sometimes the MAF, MAS, etc. sensors can't take the fumes from the sealant. I agree with Lone that there's so much to worry about with EFI.

 

Congrats Ross, on graduating and on a new job--hope it works out well ($$$$$)!!!! icon_biggrin.gif

 

David

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I am willing to bet there are 280ZXs that still have the original O2 sensor from the factory icon_biggrin.gif. You guys are correct about O2 sensors being sensitive to certain chemicals. I would advise anyone who is going to rely on the O2 sensor for tuning/performance, etc, to budget 2 extra sensors a year and more if you use leaded gas. I can tell when mine is going bad and I probably use 4/yr. I am close to understanding the optimum EGT temp and soon will stop using the O2 sensor because I am running open loop.

 

I consider the extra sensors a necessity have had good luck with the Bosch units and I buy them (1-wire) from Auto Zone for $29.

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Well intake got installed day before yesterday....used the loctite gasket spray on both sides of gasket and on head surface....didn't want to spray on/into intake. And silicone on water ports and end seals.

 

Throttle cable and 700R4 TV cable linkage is a PITA, edelbrock's rec'd bracket 8036 is not functional as is to run both (it would do one or the other.....) so custom is once again required icon_rolleyes.gif . air cleaner and valve cover interfere with ideal linkage setup..lokar has a setup they wanted to sell me...futher q's revealed it's a 1" TB spacer to raise it up so linkage can clear easier! no room with my hood....Haven't decided yet if wiring harness will go thru firewall via OEM AC opening (was nice to see that/huge opening/grommet still their) or the old ECU harness opening....pass or drivers side.

 

Oh yeah.....took way tooo long to chase down a way to go from M12x1.5 tube fitting (straight thread/seals on a washer) to a 3/8's hose flair. OEM for this fuel pump was a banjo style bolt etc with small opening....and HEI dizzy has taken a lot of hours as I was sent his old one with stuff installed as a small cap dizzy....so he modified it all to fit his smallcap and I had to remove (his dizzy was corroed to hell) it all/unmodify and some fasteners were absent icon_mad.gif so time ticked away again..setting up Hall sensor was easy but timely as reassembly and check tolerances..dissasemble/alter/reassemble...overall having fun but timeline is tightening up.....decided to leave fuel line replacement till later or it would sacrifice my timeline (start new job on monday)

 

BUT the powdercoat it showed up with turns out to match my paint wickedly icon_biggrin.gif

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Well Dizzy is all finished. My almost new dizzy gave up it's capacitor/module and other doohickey so is up for grabs.

 

Spent countless hours extending some parts of the wiring harness so it would work...argg...time well spent though as my ECU is now bolted into my old factory location icon_biggrin.gif very nicely and pops thru the old OEM wiring harness firewall hole (which was beautifully same ID as edelbrock spec'd icon_wink.gif that was sweet). Now to finish wrapping up harness (just finished final test fit and it works!). I'd of thought being aftermarket they'd give you more extra length on it. Other hotrod install I know of lengthened his whole harness icon_eek.gif , the portions I did were enough to keep me occupied. My handheld 'programmer' leads are now long enough as well to actually reach the front of my dash. Main harness exits firewall and hangs a tight right immediately behind my booster and up across just above my brake lines with only two main branches (part of my alterations), one heads off straight across drivers valve cover line of sight from the firewall and 2nd across other valve cover (reaching injectors 2 and 4 was the main reason for lengthening).

 

Got good use out of my solder station I hadn't used in a while and put a good dent in my soldering supplies.

 

I'd never installed self tapping screws before and sure enjoyed it today for the first time. For the ECU I was able to use one stock bolthole and for the other I used my recently acquired transfer punch to nail the centrepoint (damn those are slick!) and drill the hole. Took less than a minute or two all told once my fingers learned how to twist 720 degrees to hold everything icon_rolleyes.gif .

 

Fuel pump fittings arrived and I decided how to mount it...it'll bolt right to my OEM plate (wirebrushed and painted the brackets and car underside area).

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