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240Z Turbo

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240Z Turbo last won the day on February 3

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    Charlotte, North Carolina

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  1. I've been making progress slowly but, surely. Got the inner rocker installed on the driver's side. Next order of business was to fit the floor pan. I left ~1" of overlap on the trans tunnel and then ground to bare metal, treated with a rust neutralizer, and painted with a weld through primer. I did have a portion of rust that had to be removed at a seam on the trans tunnel towards the firewall. Removed an ~3" section and replaced with fresh metal.
  2. Front rocker has been grafted in and I decided to keep as much of the original good metal as possible. I now need to prep the metal with the POR rust neutralizer and then coat with POR15 prior to putting on the inner rocker. This is the inner rocker mocked up for alignment, but prior to welding in place I cleco both the inner and outer rockers in place and hang the door again along with front fender to confirm gaps and alignment.
  3. If you want to upset your wife then work on your Z as much as I've been doing. I mounted the door today to see how much sag there was from removing the rocker and to my surprise the door gap looked good. I guess leaving the pan in place is key to keep things alinged. Started with patching in the lower dog leg. Not too concerned with grinding to perfection since it won't be seen. In the front I had to cut out some rust and also replace a piece on the side flange of the firewall where it connects to the inner rocker. Next step will be to patch in the new forward rocker.
  4. I was able to remove both rockers, but this time I left the floor pan in place. I'll have to see how the door gas look, but I don't think the car moved any like it did when the pans were removed. There was a substantial amount of runs on the inner rocker, which made its way to the inner fender, but only at the very bottom. However, I had to completely remove about 4" of the flange for attaching the outer rocker. The next step was to build it back up starting with the small patch on the inner fender and then replacing that 4" mounting strip. I getting pretty good at this patch panel work I might add. I wish KF Vintage made all of the parts need, but unfortunately I was force to buy some parts from Tabco. Seeing the quality and fit of the KF stuff, the tabco parts are junk. I had to make three relief cuts in the outer fender to get it to fit properly, which where then welded back up after I got the contour I wanted. I'm now ready to tie in the lower dog leg and patch the front rocker and I'm then ready to install the inner rocker.
  5. That was 0.065" filler rod so I don't think you need to go smaller, but you can. Amps are probably set to around 30-40 (not sure how many amps actually used) depending on the thickness of the metal and the surrounding mass, but as you know you're not melting the base metal when brazing. What I found best was to just practice on some flat metal to get the hang of it because when you TIG you naturally want to melt the base metal. With only a few practice passes I TIG brazed a custom oil pan for my EVO. The EVO pan is two super thin layers of metal pressed together and have a zinc coating between them. If you simply TIG weld it blows out when it hits the zinc so you have to TIG braze the joints where it connects to the stock oil pan.
  6. Fixing the areas where the spot weld tool was used is a tedious process. I have to TIG weld in each area and then slowly grind it to look as though it was never damaged. What I thought would take 4-5hrs will likely take about 8hrs.
  7. Needy is an understatement as I just ordered another $1800 in parts from KF Vintage. My fabrication skills are adequate for this car, but I picked one of the more challenging 240's as a first time restoration.
  8. Man this work is tedious and it doesn't feel like your making any progress after putting so many hours into it. Below is the fender nut that was recovered and the welded back to the backside of the hinge cover. I also had to repair the big gaping gash in the panel, which turned out well. So much fun to weld in these washers where I removed the spot weld! It looked like the car had been hit on the bottom edge of the rocker as you can see some creases at the bottom, which I welded and flattened.
  9. For some reason the upper mounting point for the fender just below the window pillar had been torn out leaving a big gaping hole. It looks as if the metal was punctured from the outside with a hammer and the nut that is welded on the backside was gone. When I removed the rocker panel the nut fell out so I saved it and cleaned it up with a wire wheel and chased the threads with a tap. I repaired the metal surrounding the hole with a hammer and dolly and will TIG weld the ripped metal and TIG weld back the nut. Below is a pic of everything prepped for welding.
  10. The process of repairing the door hinge cover will take about 5 hrs as I have to TIG weld in washers where the spot welds were removed in preparation for welding back to the car. The first thing I do is fuse the washers in place and then clean the surface to eliminate the zinc coating on the washer and prep the metal for welding. On the inner door edge you can't just weld in washers so I have to cut out the metal completely and weld in new metal and then drill new 3/16" holes for welding back to the car. It's tedious work, but it was worth pulling the cover to clean out and treat all the rust underneath.
  11. Deja Vu....I only thought the driver's side was better. The only thing better is it looks like the frame rail has a good rust free connection with the firewall. However, I have to replace all the same parts as I did on the passenger side, but doing it a second time is definitely much faster because I'm not guessing what to do. I'm going to remove the inner rocker with the floor pan in place this time to see if the car is more aligned. The back portion of the inner rocker is significantly more rusted vs the passenger side and the seat belt bracket that holds the nut is about 1/3 rusted so I'm going to have to figure out how to replace that because I don't see that it is offered anywhere. Of course I had to remove the hinge cover because it had a lot of surface rust and although a PIA to remove and replace, I think it's worth the extra work. The upper fender nut typically welded on the backside of the cover towards the top was gone and a big hole was torn into the metal. I'll post some pics later, but it will be a simple fix.
  12. I was bored so I decided to TIG braze a small section under the fender that has an exposed seam from the factory. I used silicone bronze, which doesn't require that you melt the parent metal, but hot enough to melt the silicone bronze and it fills the seam nicely. I forgot to take a pic of it after minor grinding, but it makes the seam perfectly smooth and with no ability for water to enter the seam. When I remove the fender and door again I'll snap a picture. The next task was to weld in the new lower b pillar that was rusted out and tie into the new outer rocker. After a few test fits followed by a bit of grinding, I was able to get the new lower b-pillar replacement mocked up. And the finished results. The door is actually pushed back further than it would normally be, but the gap is pretty close so I can manipulate that once I put on the fender and get the gaps perfect.
  13. I refocused on the floor pans to stitch weld the outer edges. There were a few areas that required me to pull the pan and trans tunnel together prior to welding through the 3/16" hole so I used some 1/8" bolts. When finished you just remove and MIG weld the hole. There is an area in the back of the pan towards the trans tunnel that had a feature in the pan that did not exist on my car. This weird hump would not allow me to properly fit the pan to the trans tunnel. I ended up cutting out that portion of the pan and reshaping it to the car. You can look at previous pics I posted to see that weird hump in the pan, which is how it came from KF Vintage. Not a big deal and took about 45 minutes to correct.
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