BLKMGK Posted July 21, 2001 Share Posted July 21, 2001 Decided I'd give my car a quick fire up to see if it was even in shape enough to start. Cranked fine, good oil pressure, fuel pump ran (I cvleared lines first and primed carb) but no fire! Pulled a plug wire, cranked her over, no spark. I checked the coil, it's getting 12 volts form the driver's side wire. The coil ground is hooked to the Accell distributor and I think that may be where the problem is. Looked over the distributor and saw nothing obviously wrong. Sensor's distance from the manget look okay and the circuit board under the cap was warm so it's getting juice with the key on at least... I've tried cranking it with the key and with a jumper on the solenoid - no spark. What should I be checking next? Can I check for voltage at the could while the car is cranking? Distributor is brand new and so is the coil. Resistance across the coil measures .7Ohm so it shouldn't be the problem - that's within what the Accell book said I should have. I'm using a Blaster 3 coil. Heeellllppp!!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Drax240z Posted July 22, 2001 Share Posted July 22, 2001 When you say sensors distance from the magnet 'looks ok' does that mean that its in spec? If its too far, no spark... as I am sure you are aware of. Had the same problem with a very erratic spark once, moved the sensor closer and there was a big improvement. Not much to the ignition system... Are you sure that you haven't got a dead coil in there? Have another that you can try for a second? Just because its new doesn't mean it works... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BLKMGK Posted July 22, 2001 Author Share Posted July 22, 2001 Well, if the gap is too big it was that way out of the box (grumble). I've not got a set of feeler gauges but perhaps I'll try sliding it a hair closer. This is really aggravating Does the coil know to fire by virtue of it getting grounded? If so I couldline up the distributer to a spark plug lead and manually ground the coil to see if it will fire. I think I'll double check a wire or two first but honestly I think they're all attached correctly. Really frustrating! I've got a second coil but it takes a different ignition plug on the lead. Resistance across the coil measured properly but I'll double check to be sure. If it was dead it would read as an open and not under an Ohm.... Grr! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
blueovalz Posted July 22, 2001 Share Posted July 22, 2001 I'm wondering if you couldn't take the ground wire off the distributor, and instead touch it to a chassis ground (on and off to energize and de-energize the primary of the coil) to see if the secondary side (high voltage side) developes a high voltage spark to a gound, each time you break the contact to ground with the ground wire. This would at least tell you the coil is good. I finally went with an electronic ignition recently, but tried to avoid it simply because you can't trouble shoot them as easily as the points type, the olde fart that I am. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BLKMGK Posted July 24, 2001 Author Share Posted July 24, 2001 Yup, I did that and it did indeed spark - works fine for toruble shooting. I THINK my problem now is timing. It shot gas out of the carb so I knew it was 180 out. Now it blows fireballs out the bottom and goes "bloop bloop bloop" i think it's simply a matter of twisting the distributor a bit but I'm not going to mess with it till it's got an exhaust system. A couple of times it made a bloop that sounded like a grenade had rolled under the car and blew a BIG fireball! Since the car is sitting on some old carpet I'd prefer that it NOT catch on fire and ruin months of work Hunting up a shop to do the work now and have a line on a couple close by and possibly a trailer. Unfortunatly I'll be out of town this weekend so it might have to wait till next week to actually run. I think once timing is done it'll be fine! Am down to two braided brake lines that SCCA is sending me, one water pump pulley, exhaust, and a fan belt. WooHoo!!!!!!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest dankinzle Posted July 24, 2001 Share Posted July 24, 2001 glad you got it figured. Timing had me by the toe for a while too. Pretty spectacular though Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scottie-GNZ Posted July 24, 2001 Share Posted July 24, 2001 Jim, if you are off a tooth or two, just twisting the distributor probably will not get it correct. I would start over by putting #1 on TDC and repostioning the distributor. I get #1 TDC but putting my finger over the plug hole and turning the engine from the crank while looking for the TDC mark AND watching the action of the rockers just to be sure. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mike kZ Posted July 24, 2001 Share Posted July 24, 2001 Ya, I would do what Scottie says, start over. Something sound like its off. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BLKMGK Posted July 24, 2001 Author Share Posted July 24, 2001 Well, I had it sort of firing through the carb. So, I flipped th esucker 180. then I got it lined up with TDC on the damper and checked the rotor - it was off by what looked like one tooth. I pulled the distributor and played hell getting it back in Finally it was in and I think it's on or pretty close. This is th epoint I was at when it was going bloop bloop bloop and spitting flame. I'm going to check plug gap next and maybe try to bring the piston up on #1 to be sure. I'm really not too worried about getting it started until something resembling exhaust is on it first I'll let everyone know how it goes! Thanks for the suggestions - it's close! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Modern Motorsports Ltd Posted July 25, 2001 Share Posted July 25, 2001 You did your first 'fire up' without having a timing gun on it? FIRST thing I do...timing gun all setup/fire extinguishers handy and wife turns the key as I hold the timing gun. When it wouldn't fire once I just twisted dizzy a little either way and it fired/then checked timing and corrected and then locked it in. Always get that nailed early if you can. I'd yank that carpet and put a gun on it and see what you're at. What ignition is this that you're checking a tooth on it? sounds like you have a carb but trigger wheel ignition?? If carb only just put it to No. 1 as best as you can and follow above. PS, I assume your engine is grounded well and all other grounds are taken care of properly. (bin der dun dat ) good luck [ July 24, 2001: Message edited by: Ross C ] Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BLKMGK Posted July 26, 2001 Author Share Posted July 26, 2001 Tried again tonight. Bloop bloop. Timing looks pretty close to be honest, I had a gun on it and th egun was firing. Timing might be a bit advanced. Exhaust next week then I tackle this in earnest. I'll probably have friends over and twist the distributor while cranking - that will usually work! Distributor is an Accell unit with a mag pickup inside - hence the teeth. My Chevy friend has a theory that I've discounted but... My vacuum canister is "on the wrong side". He claims that it should be on the driver's side but I've got it on the passenger side. This isn't sequential EFI, there's NO cam sensor. It shouldn't matter diddly where I've got the distributor twisted so long as #1 lines up with the right spot - yes?! He keeps bitchng about that but could I be wrong? At least it's blowing pretty consistant fireballs out the bottom now I'm checking plug gap next. I fudged and left it as it was out of the box and am now wondering if it's too tight (dummy). Have to buy a darned gapper, I've lost mine else it would've been "right". I need to pull a plug anyway for a peek.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kevin Shasteen Posted July 26, 2001 Share Posted July 26, 2001 It wont matter as long as each consecutive spark plug wire is plugged into the correct terminal on the cap in the correct firing order (1-8-4-3-6-5-7-2); and as long as you have plenty room to manually adjust the dist. by hand when the time comes to fine tune it. If its out by more than a tooth or two you may not be able to get it started; you may have to pull it & align it w/the vacuum canister on the other side....I wouldn't mess w/it for now-I'ld wait till you have it all together & are ready for the fine tuning. For now-all you should be concerned with is that you have spark to the dist. from the coil. From there-its down hill the rest of the way. When you say "Bloop Bloop" do you mean that as in a good "Bloop Bloop" as in it was trying to start or a bad "Bloop Bloop" as in it wouldnt start but was merely backfiring? Kevin, (Yea,Still an Inliner) [ July 25, 2001: Message edited by: Kevin Shasteen ] Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Anonymous Posted July 26, 2001 Share Posted July 26, 2001 Like Kevin says, it doesn't matter where the vacuum advance is. Mines on the passenger side, moving it forward advances, back retards. You can rotate it wherever you like as long as when its on top dead center on number 1 compression stroke, the rotor is pointing at a terminal on the cap that is number 1. This terminal can be any of the eight. If your getting fireballs I'll assume its getting adequate fuel. Its probably just a matter of cranking it while twisting it. Hey, Put the woman in the car and have her crank it while you twist it. I know it is kinda freaky seeing fire shooting out.. haha, I remember when I took mine for a ride with open headers, OMG, sounded great until you let off.. Raspy as hell. And it would breath fire too, scary looking stuff. Good luck with it Jim, your almost there buddy. Take care, Lone Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BLKMGK Posted July 26, 2001 Author Share Posted July 26, 2001 Bloop bloop is what accompanis th efireballs out th ebottom - it's lighting off the fuel. It just won't quite catch and run is all. starter still hangs once in awhile and doesn't "kick" right but it's mostly okay. I had the woman in the car once before but once in awhile it makes a REAL deep "bloop" and it sounds like a grenade going off - she was done after that (lol). I'm going to turn it over by hand and stick something into the cylinder to check for TDC. I've got room to advance but NOT retard the timing so I might have o move the distributor yet again. No biggie, I no longer fear doing that but getting the oil pump shaft lined up can be a bear sometimes. Glad to hear I was right about where the vacuum can is pointed. I was pretty sure I was right but I've been proven wron before. It's close, I'll get it closer and then get some friends over to help. Doing this all by myself is a real PITA. with friends and an exhaust I can crack open the throttle easily too. It might just need some air is all! As you might guess I've not had to start many brand new machined engines (ahem). I'm trying to be patient but man it's tough - I'm going to be bouncing off the walls this weekend if I end up out of town! Me wanna' go Vroom Vroom all night long! Bleed front brakes and measure for a fan belt tonight, no fun but it needs to be done. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest dankinzle Posted July 28, 2001 Share Posted July 28, 2001 hey don't fret, I had that same annoying bloop bloop sound and it was just the timing too. Instead of always pulling the entire disty to change the timing, i just rotated the wires going into the top until I got it to fire, and then I adjusted the dist accordingly. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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