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Will an L4 bolt into a 280ZX?


Guest TKR514

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Just curious...

Will a Nissan 4cyl bolt into the 280ZX directly? Use the existing ZX 5 speed and engine mounts? If I can get at least 135HP from a 4cyl, have less weight, and get better mileage too, is it a doable swap?

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The L4 block mounts are 7" rearward from those of the L6. That seems like a long for some sort of extender plate to span. You might be able to adapt a second crossmember placed 7" behind the Z crossmember.

 

It's not hard to adapt the L4 heads to the Z4 series blocks (Z22, Z24) to get more displacement but these are both taller than the L6 block (and use longer rods btw). DAW

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Guest Anonymous

The L4 should bolt right up to the L6 tranny. I have bolted a L4 tranny to a L6. Like DAW advises.. you will need to adapt new engine mounts for the L4 engine. I do not think the light weight and L 4 will make that much difference in performance since an L6 is basically an L 4 with two more cylinders and that extra hardware will not weigh over 150 pounds more.I would rather pour the money in an L6 which will always have more stock horse power than you can safely get out of a L4. I have owned a lot of (2000cc) L4's with weber carbs and they get about 4 more miles to the gallon than a L 6

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Guest Anonymous

Heard this discussed a few times as a way to sneek into another class,but never as a performance enhancer.Fuel milage I think would be about a wash to since fuel injection manofolds are not easy to come by anymore(last guy I saw selling one wanted 300bucks)and cutting down 6cl manifolds gets expensive unless you do it yourself.So you would end up with SUs or webers.Zcar SUs on a sss maniflod(not easy to find either) would work well on say a 2.4ltr stoker motor(LZ22 block + 2mm overbore along with a LZ24 crank with 1/2 inch off the counter weights).Check out http//home.att.net/~jason510/ for ideas on L4 strokers.One interesting thing this brings up is not only the weight you would loose from the motor swap but all the down sizing in components you could do at that point,just off the top of my head you could go to a subaru R-160 limited slip,lighter drive line and half shafts along with smaller wheels and tires(I've seen miatas do some pretty amazing things on 195 series tires)Now could you regain all the performance back through weight loss who knows but i think it would be a verry interesting experiment.

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You could take a Z22S truck block, bore it 0.080" to 89mm, combine with 89mm pistons of your choice on Z22E rods (car, 148.6mm), Z22 crank (92mm stroke), then turbocharge and make up f.i. manifold from L28E manifold segments. The primary limiting factor is the lack of turbo exhaust manifolds.

 

In my little 720 pick-up I have an L20B with L18 pistons (9.6:1), a W58 head, twin 240Z SUs, and a long-tube header and 5-spd, and it will pull a heavy trailer with no problem.

 

So I can see the swap in an early lightweight 240Z but it makes little sense in a 280ZX. DAW

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Guest Anonymous

For awhile, I got 24 to 28 miles per gallon in a 5 speeed L 20 B in a pick up. This was my best average out of many. My present 5 speed L 20 pick up gets about 20 mpg which is about the same as my 280 Z with automatic.The L20 B is a great little motor but has nowhere the "GUTS" of the big brother with 2 more cylinders..

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Hi Daw,

Sounds like your 720 is set-up similar to my 720. I actually took the NAPS-Z24, bored it out to 90.5mm, extensively ported the head, added an Isky cam, twin DCOE45 webers and Doug Thorley headers. I also ordered custom pistons for it and had the compression sitting at 9.5:1. This set-up worked extremely well and I was very pleased with the torque and overall power of the Z24, even though its not one of the better breathing motors. I spent a lot of time extracting as much power from that engine, as was pleased with the end result. I kept this set-up in my truck for about 2years and then sold the motor to a 510 owner and then dropped a FJ22 into the truck.

 

Regards - Yasin

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Yasin-The L4 head flows much better than the Z4 head as you're probably aware, but with the displacement of a Z24 shortblock under it the c.r. can easily get out of hand. The open-chamber U67 head is basically the only option as the SSS or W53/58 chambers are too small. Someone who had done this L4 head/Z24 shortblock hybrid told me he had to use a Mercedes Benz timing chain connector link to size the chain correctly.

 

BTW, re drivetrains and the L4, you cannot use the Z22/Z24 trans if you use the block for a hybrid engine due to the different tilt. You must use an L4 or L6 trans. DAW

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Guest Anonymous

Daw

change the rods to Z20e units and run milled down VG30 pistons(29mm pin height) for a nice rod/stroke ratio.This setup with custom 89mm pistons is rumored to be the basis for Rebello's long rod 2.3.Most of the 510 guys are really sold on the Z24 crank either in a L20 or LZ22 block,some even bore L20bs out 4mm over!(oil control problems and overheating are common).Just imagine what could be done if we could get factory 96mm cranks for a L6, 3.7ltr anyone?

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Guest Anonymous

Whoops missed the part about turbo. To much compresion with the parts mix I suggeted.Have you actually tried to section a L-28 manifold down to fit a L4? not very easy,I've got one on a head right now that I'm trying to figure out how to get around pie cutting it to line up the penulum.I think It would be easier to make one up from tubbing and just use the flange and injector bosses.Ive also stared at one of my spare L28et exaust manifolds for a very long time trying to figure out how to shorten it to.

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