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HKS EVC IV


Guest Anonymous

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Yeah, I've got an "opinion" icon_sad.gif I bought one of these puppies years ago and it was pretty expensive. After using it for about 6months the solenoid under the hood DIED! I've still got the box (somewhere) and the dead solenoid but I was none too thrilled about the money I ended up flushing. IF you can get it cheaply enough then go for it but if they want a pile of cash then consider what it might cost to fix. I was pretty disgusted with mine and the motor was being pulled anyway for a supercharged rather than turbo motor so I never pursued a repair. Find out what sort of support you'd get from HKS before jumping in too deeply. Lot's of other companies making similiar boxes now icon_smile.gif

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Guest Anonymous

Thanks guys. I'm looking at three models of boost control units: hks, trust (greddy) and blitz boost. I'm just a bit uncertain icon_confused.gif about features like "fuzzy-logic" which is supposed to "learn" your cars boost response curve..LOL!

And some of the controllers have a thing called "scramble" boost. I guess that this sets the boost at a preset max for a short period of time

icon_rolleyes.gif sounds like a good way to blow something up really quick.

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quote:

Originally posted by pparaska:

Most people in the DSM world spell that HK$.

 

The EVC is silly money for what can usually be done quite well with a good relief type Manual Boost Controller, IMO.

 

Pete I had the same opinion, until I did research on them, the electronic boost controllers is better in controlling boost creeps. Some manual boost controller are known to give boost creeps.

 

Smackz...

 

I don't know about now but back when the EVC came out with there fuzzy logic boost controller, I knew people who had it on there twin turbo RX7 & 300zxTT and didn't like it and switch back to the regular HKS EVC. Fuzzy logic does sound good on the instruction book icon_biggrin.gif I have a EVC IV.

 

[ November 06, 2001: Message edited by: R0N ]

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Fuzzy logic is a good idea. for instance if you've got a turbo setup that spikes, like my RX7 icon_sad.gif, you can have it learn this behaviour and when it sees the boost climbing quickly it will begin opening the wastegate sooner (assuming the spring will let it) to counteract the spike and diminish it. Same thing with slow boost, normally a wastegate will begin opening BEFORE max boost is reached - it's a dumb device after all. So, with the electronic controller it will hold the wastegate closed by not allowing it to see ANY boost until the preset boost level is nearly reached, then it allows boost through to begin opening the wastegate.

 

Scramble boost... Suppose your car can handle 20lbs of boost but breaks the tires loose in lower gears. Or suppose you can run that boost but don't normally want to do it. set the "normal" boost level to say 15lbs and the scamble to 20. As you get into higher gears and find the car next to you beginning to pull ahead you hit the scramble button on the steering wheel and like NOS you pull ahead as there's a controlled "spike" of boost.

 

Manual controllers can do NONE of those things. Manual controllers CAN bump max boost but they cannot do any of the advanced features. For that matter - some electronic controllers can raise boost level for particular RPM levels if you have traction issues. Low boost until a certain RPM and then ramp it up as the revs climb in order to retain traction. How would you do that with a manual valve?

 

In short - there are advantages to the electronic units but most folks simply don't need them. (shrug) I wanted it on the twin turbo V8 but I never got full benefit from it as the car was never tuned as well as it should've been (sigh).

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Guest Anonymous

Thank you once again for your response(s). I would imagine then that the similar characteristics of the electronic valve control units out number the differences. The Greddy Profec A, HKS EVCIV, and Blitz Dual SBC all have some kind of integrated circuit that controls the boost levels up to 2.0 bar or so. Much like shopping for a DVD or other consumer piece...I guess that it now comes to "bells and whistles"....or not.

This is a very informative forum...I'm glad to be on board! icon_biggrin.gif

 

SMACKZ

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I agree that those expensive boxes can do some neat things. But I get probably 95% of the performance that they would give for about $50 with a GOOD manual boost controller. A GOOD one (relief type) won't have overshoot at all. A bleeder type will.

 

As much as I like gizmos, I could just never put the money into one of those - until I had all the other stuff sorted out well. Heck, I'd put the money towards a nice big front mount intercooler and piping first.

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