Z-Gad Posted November 9, 2001 Share Posted November 9, 2001 Well, I'm in the final stages of my engine build/swap. SDS is wired in and I am waiting on Summit to send my braided fuel lines and my turbo to be modified...Anyway, on to the question...What weight and type of oil should be used in break-in. I will be using a synthetic ... live in Florida (so cold temps should not be a biggie)... and have an L6 turbo. I prefer straight weight oils, but is 30 wieght too heavy for a turbo motor? Thank you in advance, Mike Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
scottyMIz Posted November 9, 2001 Share Posted November 9, 2001 Hy mike i don't know about break in oil weight but i run 20w-50w oil in my turbo z cuz the 10-30 doesn't hold up to the heat.I put in racing oil last time and it's been the best so far. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ziceman Posted November 9, 2001 Share Posted November 9, 2001 Don't use synthetic for breakin, it's too slippery and the rings won't seat. I use a good brand 10-30 for breakin, run very low boost and vary the engine load. Drop oil after 30 minutes and reload with new filter and regular oil. After breakin add some boost and change to synthetic. Breakin may take 3-5000kms. My L24 engine took two summers to breakin just because I wasn't driving it enough, 1000K first year. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ziceman Posted November 9, 2001 Share Posted November 9, 2001 What did the SDS cost you? Are there any deals to be had out there? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Anonymous Posted November 9, 2001 Share Posted November 9, 2001 Personally, I'd break in with straight 30 wt, the oil will get contaminated bigtime anyway in the first 100 miles or so (usually much less, rings seat pretty quickly honestly, or at least they're supposed to if the cylinders were honed correctly and you don't wash the cylinders down with a bad carb or something). On a N/A engine, I try to do its first oil change at 500 miles (some do it way under that, I'm cheap though.. ), not sure on the first oil change on a turbo engine as I havn't done that. (yet!) Regards, Lone Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ratedZ Posted November 9, 2001 Share Posted November 9, 2001 Hey guys...what's the web address for SDS? these smilies rock! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Anonymous Posted November 9, 2001 Share Posted November 9, 2001 While there are lots of opinions on this particular subject and I try to be open minded but there are several things that I believe to be true. I worked at Morgan's Machine and Marine in Walnut Creek under the tuteledge if Tim Morgan himself. Tim is more than famous in our area for building hard core race engines as well as high performance street motors. Being a blower specialist I picked up lots of rudementary knowledge on metals and lubrication and that is where my training began. Now I will say that Tim is a little fanatical about alot of things and engine lubrication is definently one of them. Kendall oil is the only oil he uses and races with in his 5000+hp top Alcohol motors and all his motors that leave his shop. His instructions for a street engine breakin: 15w40 Kendall oil with fresh filter, cam break in lube(it contains etching materials helpful in mechanical break in) and 20 to 25 minutes of varying rpm between 2000 and 2800rpm. Change oil after break in and add 15w40 for first 200 mile drive break in. During these early miles you can occasionally dip into boost and get into the throttle.Drive it like you will drive it when it will be driven minus the redline charges and max boost for more than a couple seconds. Engines that are broken in very easily and softly don't tend to break in as quickly or thoroughly as engines driven like they plan to be used. After the 200 miles of healthy driving and religious oil checking EVERYTIME YOU TURN THE CAR OFF! New filter and because Tim sets his bearing clearances for 20w50 we switch to that wieght. Some additional info also, Kendall oil is THE ONLY petroleum oil that is drilled for, pumped and processed, and made completely by Kendall. All other oil is the same base stock from several different sources of varying quality. Try Kendall some time, besides the green color is easier to read on the stick and easier to tell when it gets dirty. This is probably way too much info but if Tim Morgan only uses it in his T.A. Drag boat that turns 90Wt. Nitro oil into 5 wieght milk in less that 1320 ft and in his 35,000+ dollar 1200hp blown BBC offshore boat engines I'll believe 'em. And never break in old technology engines in on synthetic oils, it never turns out well. Newer engines designed with syn. oils are ok, but my gut still says 1000+ miles on petroleum will make me sleep better. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Anonymous Posted November 9, 2001 Share Posted November 9, 2001 I just changed mine recently with Kendal racing 20-50. First time I used it, but will probably use it again, the green Is easy to see on the stick. I was already to go synthetic and I know the benefits and really wanted to run it, but damn, 7 bucks a quart is a bit hard on this poor old mans wallet, I'll use the 2-3 buck a quart dino oil and change it a tad earlier. (2500 miles or so) Regards, Lone Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Z-Gad Posted November 10, 2001 Author Share Posted November 10, 2001 Thank you all for your advice. I'll plan on breaking the engine in w/ Kendall as suggested. I really like the idea of being able to read the dip-stick too!! As far as the SDS system... www.sdsefi.com If you hunt around this site, (like using the search function) you may be able to find a nice discount on the system if it is still being offered Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DavyZ Posted November 10, 2001 Share Posted November 10, 2001 Ditto on what Lone said. I talked with the guys from Redline, and they said for break in, you DO NOT want to run any multi-weight oils. Use a straight 30W oil for break in, and then go to the oil you want to use on a regular basis. Davy Heh heh, cool... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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