Guest De Schmaydee Posted January 30, 2003 Share Posted January 30, 2003 ....ive been pondering how to get this i.c. piped in for a while now (its a custom i.c. shaped kiinda like an fmic)....seen some beautiful (and elaborate jobs)... ...the radiator partition seems to be the prob...why not just cut the sucker out?...and make aluminium (or whatever)brackets to hold the radiator in (and maybe 1 steel cross member @ the top...). ....or get a 3" narrower aluminum radiator...and run the pipes through the gap that is created....seems like you could get a straighter(shorter) shot @ it that way......s Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fl327 Posted January 30, 2003 Share Posted January 30, 2003 two words SAW ZALL my driver side radiator support almost isnt there anymore Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest 240hybrid Posted February 1, 2003 Share Posted February 1, 2003 I think that the radiator crossmember is a pretty structural part off the engine bay. I could be wrong, but I wouldnt hack too much of it out. No way to plumb around the rad. support huh. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ZR8ED Posted February 3, 2003 Share Posted February 3, 2003 Actually that front rad support is VERY important. I completely removed mine during the lengthy process of installing my VG30ET into my 280Z. I have a 12 point cage in the car, and when the car was on the hoist, we cut the top rad support on either side of the car and removed the middle approx 25" of centre section. This was going to be rewelded in after, and was done to speed up all the trial fits of the engine in the car. When the car was set on its own wheels (still on hoist, but the car sitting on its own weight on the wheels, that front rad support could not be placed back in...the front of the car twisted inboard almost a 1/4" and would not allow the insertion of the rad support.... with the car raised back on the hoist, the middle support easily fit back in place...with obvious space left..(from material cut away with hacksaw blade) SOOO when we reinstalled the support, I too needed clearance for my 2.5" dia i/c pipes. I also cut away engough clearance on either side of the rad support. Now knowing the effects of the lack of rad support, we reinstalled it, and added 2, 1" dia square tubing top and bottom accross the rad support to give it extra strength(infront of rad support, so stock rad could be attached as normal) Additional plates on the top corners of the rad support were added, as well as a large X brace, to make up for my loss of my strut tower bar. (clearace around engine issue) X goes from the outboard most end of each rad support, and attaches diagonally to the other side of the car on the strut tower. Just something to consider if you really take alot of the "webbing" sheet metal that gives that support attach points to the fenders. It is more important than you think. It is not just a rad support... it works just like a strut tower brace, and keeps the front of the car from flexing inboard and outboard. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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