Guest Anonymous Posted August 30, 2001 Share Posted August 30, 2001 hey guys just a quick question. i plan on running the w5 aluminum cylinder heads for my motor but i looked at the intake port volume and it was rated at 265cc and the w2 sits at 185cc. while i plan on making my power band really kick in above 3000rpms i would still like to keep a nice snappy throttle response. anybody out there that can give a hand on what would be the best to run? the specs for each head are as follows: material cham. cc valve size stem size W2 - castiron 68cc 2.02/1.60 3/8 W5 - alum. 59cc 2.02/1.60 3/8 int vol. int flow@.600 weight W2 - 185cc 260 51 lbs. W5 - 205cc 265 25 lbs. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pparaska Posted August 30, 2001 Share Posted August 30, 2001 Are you sure the port volume is 265? That's huge for a small block Anyway, 265 or even 205 ports are pretty big for a street motor in the 340-360 inch range. I'd imagine low speed torque would suffer. [ August 30, 2001: Message edited by: pparaska ] Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest John Adkins Posted August 30, 2001 Share Posted August 30, 2001 Aren't the W5's mostly used as a race head? Haven't heard of many people using them on the street..... Port volume is pretty large, like Pete said. Were you going to use these on a 318? I think they are a little too much for that.... A 318 would also need valve reliefs at the top of the bore to clear the big valves. Another thing to think about is that the w2 and w5 head use different valvetrain components than stock heads, also different headers(different port shape), I believe the intake manifold is unique as well, but I could be wrong. How about the Edelbrock aluminum heads? If I recall correctly, they are like a ported aluminum version of the 340 "X" head. The MP "Commando" aluminum head might be something to look into as well. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Anonymous Posted August 31, 2001 Share Posted August 31, 2001 i have been outta the mopar scene for awhile now, but i remember the W2 being offered in aluminum too..and the magnum swirl heads are a good head too....there the ones on the 360 crates putting out 380hp fairly easily so dont count those heads out....but then again my memory could be gone.lol Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kevin Shasteen Posted August 31, 2001 Share Posted August 31, 2001 From everything I've read the W2 flows better than any RPO mfg'd cyl.head w/exception to the Boss 302 cyl/heads...and that's with the W2 being bone stock w/out any mod's; in other words there are plenty of options for porting. I dont remember where I read it but I do remember reading a listing of what a small cyl head is compared to a large cyl head: 1) X thru 160cc...Small 2) 161-190cc......Medium 3) 191-above......NASCAR 8,500rpm kind of a head So dont go hog wild on a cyl.head that you know will be ran on the street; as low rpm will suffer incredibly. Kevin, (Yea,Still an Inliner) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Anonymous Posted August 31, 2001 Share Posted August 31, 2001 thanks for the advice guys i thought that 206cc looked a little to big for me too.but what can i say other than it must be one of those "bigger is better" ideas in my head actually i was cosidering the MP "commando" head for a while but i priced them and they cost more than a set of W5! something like 700-800 per head! and i think that was a bare head to boot. also even though the block is origonaly a 318 i plan on having it bored .060 or more (leave enough room for one or two rebuilds though) and using the MP 3.79" stroke crankshaft.i'll probably most likely run a set of W2s then. the thing is when i compete in the silver state run and gambler's run i want to be able to compete competively in the 170+ class and for that kind of speed i'm sure i'll need a set of deep breathin heads to help me wind up the power band from 3500 or 4000 on. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest super280z Posted September 8, 2001 Share Posted September 8, 2001 V8zfreak, what kind of ci does that combo come out to? i was planning on a similar combo for my truck, i've got a 318 layin around and a few more inches wouldnt hurt.. how far can you bore a 318? 4.00? ok never mind.. something in the neighborhood of 377 right? it seems like the w-2's would be a great choice for a combo like this. [ September 07, 2001: Message edited by: Super280z ] [ September 07, 2001: Message edited by: Super280z ] Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Anonymous Posted September 8, 2001 Share Posted September 8, 2001 actually i think some years of blocks (ealrier casting were thick wall, i have a friend running .090 over with room to spare another .060 more!!)can be bored out that far. 1976 and below i think. but what i plan to do is run the 4.00" stroker crankshaft and a 4.00" bore wich would equate to 402CID and still be lighter than a 383 stroked chevy when the bore is equal to the stroke they call it a square motor. i can't seem to remember if this has an effect on the powerband or revability of the motor. but maybe somebody out here can answer that question for me. i would really like to know the answer my self. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest super280z Posted September 9, 2001 Share Posted September 9, 2001 thats super cool dude. i've been looking for a 340 because of their larger 4.04 in bore so i could use that 4" crank from mp. but if i can skip that and use that crank or just the 3.79" one it'd save me a ton of cash. oh well.. i have heard that you can bore out the older blocks a lot more because of the thicker walls. the discussion was in the back of some HRM talking about making a 480" small block with that crank and an "R" block. sounds good to me! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Anonymous Posted September 10, 2001 Share Posted September 10, 2001 yeah but those "R" blocks are pricey! i think the newest version the "R4" is around 4000+ for the block alone! i guess that is understandable considering that they are designed stricly for racing applications. if you can find a used one beware since their made for nothing but racing you know they haven't been treated too nicely. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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