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Guest Anonymous

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Guest Anonymous

I stuck my engine and tranny in again today just to see how it would work. I was right about the shifter being exactly in the right spot. The only problem is that there is not enought room at the top of the tunnel for the trans and shifter mount. I still have to move the engine over a inch for exhaust clearence so that may make a little more room. I also have to make sure that the tranny is pointing at the rear diff. worst case I have to cut the shifter mount off and weld one back on that's closer to the tailshaft. As of right now the part that the shifer bolts to is right against the trans tunnel leaving no room for the shifter. The likages will clear fine. I'm sure I will think of something but some hints would help just to make sure I'm not looking over some easy fix. well gotta run

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Guest Anonymous

hey great to hear about your progress landis, my block is still layed up in the shop. we have only one machine shhop out here so you basically have to play the waiting game icon_sad.gif i do have a junk block with truck motor mounts on it that i plan on using to test fit the motor once it warms up enough to let me drag the block up the hill in our back yard where my zx is stashed for the winter. keep us posted n your progress, i'm glad to hear somebody is making it farther than me icon_smile.gif good luck

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Guest Anonymous

I made my front motor mounts today and they turned out pretty good. I reused the datsun mounts but I had reservations about how they would hold up. I jacked up the car by the oil pan and the mount held so they should hold up. I still have to figure out the shifter part but with the engine a inch to the pass side it should give me a little more room. More fun tomorrow.

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Guest John Adkins

Hey Landis,

 

Are you using the the stock aluminum mounting plate that mopar 4 speed shifters are usually mounted on? I think it's about a half an inch thick on A-body shifters... It's the part that bolts to the tailshaft, then the shifter bolts to it. Maybe if you fabbed up a thinner plate out of steel (the mount I have is the Hurst universal that comes with the Hurst Indy 4 speed shifter and its only about a 1/4" inch thick steel) it would give you a little more room.

 

Also, could you bang the tunnel at the interference point with a big hammer? I know in some chevy installations they have to get out the sledge hammer and massage the tunnel in some places...

 

Another option is to just cut out just enough of the tunnel for the shifter to fit and make a hump out of sheet metal to cover it and weld it in, kind of like a Mopar A-body 4 speed hump (but hopefully not as big!) icon_biggrin.gif

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Guest Anonymous

making a thinner mounting plate is a great idea thanks John. If I hammer and make a thinner mounting plate that is all I should need. I went to a machine shop to get prices for the engine. It came to about 550 for everything. That includes making the engine internally balanced. Is this really needed? I read somewhere that it's a plus, but it's like over 300 for that alone by far the most in my labor cost. compared to just 40 for making the flywheel(that I already have) externally balanced. I don't plan on spinning the engine over 5500-6000 anyway so is this just a wasted expense. thanks guys

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Guest Anonymous

Looks like I need to grind off all of the old mounting flange off the trans. I took a inch off already and made a new mounting plate. it's like a inch and a half thinner. The shifter now fits in the tunnel but it still has to go farther to the pass side. I am going to grind off the bolt holes right down to the tailshaft and make a new plate that attaches to the trans mount. This should take care of the mounting problems.

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