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Fuel line routing


jeromio

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I'm now entering full project creep mode. This thing will never get back on the road. Specifically, I have decided not to route fuel lines in the tunnel. So that means that I may as well re-route the rear brake line. It also means that I need to go ahead and replace the bent up driver's side frame rail (floor support) since it's

 

- Not going to protect the lines in its current state.

 

- Will need to be replaced at some point anyway.

 

- I'd have to undo and then redo the lines when I do replace it since the lines will be right next to it. Welding near fuel lines is too much exceitement for me.

 

So, of course I am going to do sub-frame connectors on both sides "while I'm at it". God I could just kick myself.

 

Anyway, on to the actual topic: what's the best way to route the lines? Should they go on the inner side, or on the outside? Or, should they actually go Inside the new rail? I like the inside idea because the lines will be completely out of the wa and totally protected. I could add drilled cross blocks at a couple points that would have plastic or rubber grommits.

 

The problem is that the lines have to enter and exit at some point(s). That involves drilling holes in the frame and then strengthening the entry points, most likely with sections of pipe or else washers welded around the holes. And although it would be very cool for the fuel lines to poke up out of the frame right where they need to go, shielded from heat and so forth, routing them thru that area will be tough. I don't plan on replacing the entire frame rail, just the part from the strut rod mount back. So I'll have to drill a big hole thru the bulk head metal aft of the strut rod mount and then line that hole with rubber or something and I imagine it will be hard since that's a tiny 2.5 inch wide space.

 

My second choice is to route the lines on the outside of the rail and then poke them up thru a hole in the sheet metal just under where the brake booster sits.

 

I'm having a hard time deciding though. Any opinions?

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  • 2 weeks later...

Well, I done did it. I took an essentially rust free frame rail (floor support) and hacked it apart. It was beat to crap - obviously several previous "mechanics" thought you could put a jack under the thing.

 

So, here's what it looked like inside:

sFrameRailCarnage.jpg

 

I couldn't resist adding a few beads up in there. I didn't take a picture of the hideous hole I put in the "middle" metal. I bolstered the hole with a bead which should also make for a nice, roundish, unsharp rim for the lines to pass thru. Of course, the lines will have rubber sheathing where ever they contact other surfaces (within reason). I did hit this whole area with a wire brush and rust converting primer.

 

Here's the new rail before getting bent up. The lines are in there just for show (straightening spooled lines is a huge pain BTW):

sFrameRailStart1.jpg

FrameRailStart2.jpg

FrameRailStart3.jpg

This is made from 14ga mild steel. It is primed - not sure how much of that will remain un-burned after welding.

 

There's also a similarly ugly, beaded hole at the engine compartment (top) side of the rail for the lines to exit. The other remaining challenge is putting a hole in the sub-frame area of the rail (it will be one piece, going from strut rod mount all the way to rear sub frame). And then there's the wrestling with lines, bending and coaxing them from A to B. Not looking forward to that.

 

But, when I am done, the fuel, return and rear brake lines will be all nice and safe and hidden away. The only real worry I have is someone jacking up the car by this new rail. The rail on the passenger side is also 14ga and has held up very well over the past year or so. I did apparently scrump on a speed bump once or twice (car was real low when it had the 14inch wheels), so it has some dents and scrapes, but the structure is completely in tact. BTW, I will also be doing the subframe connector dealio ot the passneger side.

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What you are doing right now is what seperates the men from the boys!!It takes intestinal fortitude!! Big Gazogas!! As Winston Churchill said HmmH "These are the times that tries mens souls!". Its always darkest before the dawn!!Remember what the positive little boy said digging in horse **** "there's gotta be a pony in here somewhere!" We have all been there and we are all behind you guy.

Its gonna be great when you get it done!

2thumbs.gifcheers.gif2thumbs.gifcheers.gif:D

Len

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Here's some more progress on the rail and lines:

 

Frame Rail Page

 

Had a hell of a time stuffing the lines thru the two holes in the main frame rail. I have some more wrestling to do. I was almost ready to tack the new rail in place, but I got called in to decorate eggs.

 

Oh, extra happy times - I get to remove the driver's side control arm and driveshaft in order to get the lines up in there. There weren't no way to stick them in first, since I had to get them up into the frame rail in the engine bay first. Sigh.

 

You'll notice from the updated pix that I got a little squeemish and put much bolstering inside the rail to protect the lines. Especially in the forward part, just before it slants up to the strut rod mount. There I used 2 pieces of railing channel (Used for wrought-iron-style railings) welded together for an extra super uncrushable support since that's the area most likely to get abused by a jack. I used lots of rubber hose everywhere to prevent rubbing damage too.

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