86 300zx

[Guest Anonymous]

Okay, I'm sitting here because my z is still in the shop. On going for last 2 months. Mech. can't seem to peg down the problem. Drove to Fla. from Va.

and back so put just at 2,000 miles on it. Ran like the wind. Just as I got back in to town it started acting as if it had the flu. Runs find in their shop at idle, but as soon as it hits the road it starts to stall. RPM's drop to 5 -7ooo. One might think it was getting to much gas, not the case. Sensor's have been checked, replaced, and replaced again, cleaned connections, and tuned up.

Everything's find now, wrong...car just dies in the shop, can't get it to even run. Now they are replacing the computer, used one.

 

Anyone else had this type of problem ? Has just about 126,000 miles.

 

TKS

Stephen

[Tim240z]

Could be some sort of electronic interference with the PCM? Long shot I know, but I've seen it happen. Sounds kinda hokey, but try wrapping it in foil.

Tim

[Guest Anonymous]

Tks Tim,

 

Just spoke with Mech. He agrees with what you said, for race z's or those that

run with high frequency ignition systems. He's still waiting on the computor

to come in. Seems like they are just replacing parts, granted it's a 86 and

could be worn out. I just miss my z,

 

Also had left Q panel damaged, as in a Dodge 4 x4 wanted my lane.

Picked up one at jk yard for $150. and plan to have that replaced asap.

Need to replace hood,resulted from hail damage.

Then will be looking for nice rims ...and so it goes.

 

Everyone says get a new car, they just don't understand.

 

Stephen

[2many280s]

I just bought an 86 300zx that was doing almost the same thing you just described. It would idle and run perfectly fine, had plenty of power when it was running... but would foul the plugs out at random times while going down the road and it turned out to be the Crank angle sensor in the bottom of the distributor giving an intermittent signal and causing the computer to just go nuts sometimes.

New dist was $400 from Courtesy Nissan, Used dist were normally in the $99 to $100 range and could have the same problem... but I bought a used one anyway, took the old one out and took it apart, took the sensor out and cleaned it as best I could and cleaned the electrical connector on the bottom, plugged it back in and haven't had a problem since then but I have only put about 60 miles on the car since then so I can't say for sure if that fixed it or not, but before it wouldn't make it 10 miles without flooding out.

[Guest Anonymous]

Found the problem. The coil had a crack in it. When the car set idle the current would simply flow as designed. When it was under a load as out on the highway the current would begin to arc out to the fender well.

 

It was not until the new mech. removed the coil and flipped it over to inspect it did he notice a white hair line fracture. He replace the coil with a new one and took it out for a test drive. Still had some drag problem, just did not seem to be getting all the power or running smooth. He remove the computer unit and removed the cover plate and low and behold "corrosion".

 

At this point he ask me if the car had ever been in a flood....of course not.

Well then I remembered a really bad rain storm which in fact caused flooding and got into my floorboard area. That was all cleaned out of course, but what I did not realize is the flooding water had gone higher into the car then my first inspection. The point is the mositure had gotten up into the computer and

over time ( 2 years at least in this case ) had cause the system to short out.

$250. For a used computer, and a new coil plus labor $420.oo and I'm back on the road. Oh jeah.....bring on the summer.

 

Zig