grumpyvette Posted March 9, 2002 Share Posted March 9, 2002 I posted this before,and to answer your question yes a 383stroke crankshaft will work with some minor mods to the oilpan rails if your useing most steel rods and the MILODON WINDAGE SCREEN #32250 works well with minor mods I recently bought a oilpan from a new source because the cost was very reasonable and it looked like a good deal if you use one, http://www.performancemarket.com/oilpan.htm or you can get a pan simular to the pan I just bought for my vette from MIDWEST MOTORSPORTS #mwm15120 --7.25" deep 7 quart available in right or left hand dipstick for $59-$69 (great deal for what you get and they can get you the correct pump and pickup too,(#mwm15135 small block type 5/8" pickup type pumps ($19.99 www.midwestmotorsportsinc.com and thats a road racing/circle track style pan with 7 qt capacity and its only 7.25" deep for great ground clearence (its got 1/4" more ground clearence than most stock vette pans)the pan is available left dipstick #15120 $59.99 or right dipstick #15121 $69.99 and yes the pan has a slight(3") kickout to the right side but the baffles all direct the oilflow to the rear of the pan for the pump pickup and the baffle doors only allow oil to move toward the pickup so what you have is a pan/pump layout that has a stock corvette configuration with an extra wide sump with far superior oil control. the only down side I see is that some starters may not fit but almost any of the smaller high torque ones will! its a much better pan than the corvette pan.BTW I forgot to mention that I just saw a artical that said if you use nitrious that the slight extra oil voluum from a high voluum pump spraying around in the sump greatly helps cool the pistons from the bottom side in some cases by over 100 degs and if a few extra shallow grooves in the rod mateing areas and a small hole in the web area of the main bearings pointed at each piston from the main bearings is drilled to direct oil at the piston bases even greater cooling can be accomplished. anyway I felt it was a good deal for the money spent and figured why not let you guys make your own minds up but give you the option!!! got to have info to make good decisions , hey Ive payed more and got less before in an oilpan BTW the sbc pump works with much less work or modifications to the internal oilpan baffles. a list of parts to use is the chevy high volume pump chevy# 14044872 with the chevy #3848911 spring and the milodon #mil-32250 windage screen and # mil-32640 crank scraper, this will greatly add to the oil control in your engine and add voluum plus pressure plus control to the oil flow , you will also need the mounting studs #mil-81150 and the oilpump drive shaft #arp-134-7901 all are avail from SUMMIT 1-800-230-3030 -------------------- BTW this is a good source of QUALITY magnets to epoxy into the sump of your oilpan to remove harmfull metalic dust and the work MUCH BETTER THAN THOSE LAME MAGNETIC DRAIN PLUGS http://www.wondermagnet.com/dev/magnet2.html btw J.B. weld works well for this (but be sure to totally clean and degrease the pan before epoxying the magnets(2) into the bottom corners of the sump for best results(you will be amazed at how much metalic dust they pick out of your oil ) -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- ok look at it this way,what your trying to do here is keep an pressureized oil film on the surface of all the bearings to lube and cool them and have enough oil spraying from the rod and main bearing clearances to lube the cam and cylinder walls/rings. now a standard pump does a good job up to 5000rpm and 400 hp but above 6000rpm and 400hp the bearings are under more stress and need more oilflow to cool and because the pressure on the bearings is greater you need higher pressures to maintain that oilfilm.lets look at the flow verus pressure curve. since oil is a liquid its non-compressable and flow will increase with rpm up to the point where the bypass circuit starts to re-route the excess flow at the point were the pressure exceeds the bypass spring pressure. but the voluum will be equal to the pumps sweep voluum times the rpm of the pump, since the high voluum pump has a sweep voluum 1.3-1.5 times the standard pump voluum it will push 1.3-1.5 times the voluum of oil up to the bypass cicuit cut in point, that means that since the engine bearings leakage rate does not increase as fast as the rpms increase because the clearances don,t change that the amount of oil and the pressure that it is under will increase faster and reach the bypass circuit pressure faster with the high voluum pump. the advantage here is that the metal parts MUST be floated on that oil film to keep the metal parts from touching/wearing and the more leakage points the oil flows by the less the voluum of oil thats available for each leakage point beyond it and as the oil heats up it becomes easier to push through the clearences.now as the rpms and cylinder preasures increase in your goal to add power the loads trying to squeeze that oil out of those clearances also increase. ALL mods that increase power either increase rpms,cylinder preasures or reduce friction or mechanical losses. there are many oil leakage points(100) in a standard chevy engine. 16 lifter to push rod points 16 pushrod to rocker arm points 32 lifter bores 16 x 2 ends 10 main bearing edges 9 cam bearing edges 16 rod bearing edges 2 distributor shaft leaks 1 distributor shaft to shim above the cam gear(some engines that have an oil pressure feed distributor shaft bearing.) so the more oil voluum the better.chevy did an excelent job in the design but as the stresses increase the cooling voluum of the extra oil available from the larger pump helps to prevent lubracation delivery failure, do you need a better pump below 5000rpm or 400hp (no) above that level the extra oil will definitely help possiable deficient oil flow and bearing cooling and a simple increase in pressure does not provide a big increase in voluum that may be necessary to keep that oil film in the correct places at the correct voluum at all times.the stock system was designed for a 265cid engine in a passenger car turning a max of about 6000 rpm but only haveing the stress of under 300hp transmitted to the bearings, Im sure the orriginal designers never thought that the sbc would someday be asked to on occasion hold up to 450-700hp and 6000-8000 rpm.nore did they forsee valvesprings that placed 500lbs and up loads on the lifters and the use of over 9 to 1 compression ratios in the orriginal design so the oil voluums and pressures necessary to cool those valve springs and bearings at those stress levels were never taken into account for that either. 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Guest Posted March 9, 2002 Share Posted March 9, 2002 thank you so much sir for recieving my phonecall and being very detailed and helpful with my build-up. i'm just besides myself right now and i'll be sure to add you contact info to my favorites!! thanx paul jav240z ("AN I-6 DOES NOT A SUPERCAR MAKE") Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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