Do I need to bleed the clutch more?

[Turbo6inKY]

Okay, search isn't working, so please don't flame me if this has already been asked a bazillion times...

 

I've just got my 1970 240Z back on the road, except the transmission hates life when the car is sitting still.

 

Now, I've replaced the slave cylinder, and bled the clutchsystem. I ran an entire bottle of fluid through it, I didn't see anymore bubbles coming out...

 

However, when the car is sitting still and running, with the clutch pushed to the floor, it hates going into any gear. Reverse is the easiest to get into, with a hard jerk. Second works about 75% of the time, with a hard jerk. First is hardly ever available.

 

When the car is not running, I can row through the gears like nobody's business.

 

Now for the fun stuff. I do not think the clutch is dragging. I did a ghetto clutch drag test. Got the car on a level spot, pushed the clutch in, and held the revs up for about 30 seconds. The car didn't move. The clutch pedal assembly has a terrible amount of slop. The linkage is worn and it the pedal moves about 2 inches before it actually starts to act on the master cylinder.

 

I have not separated the transmission from the the engine to actually look at the clutch yet.

 

So, I guess my question is, should I try bleeding the clutch again, adjusting the little rod that comes out of the slave cylinder some more, fix the sloppy linkage, or is it time to drop the transmission and find out if the synchros are shredded?

 

I have changed the fluid. No obvious metal shavings, old fluid was clean.

 

 

Thanks folks!

[BayAreaZT]

You need to adjust the rod on your master cylinder so you get more travel out of it. There should not be 2" of freeplay. The clutch pedal should be about 8" off the floor and the freeplay should be about 1/4". 2" is way too much.