Corzette Posted March 30, 2003 Share Posted March 30, 2003 1. OK guys here it goes. I just assembled everything back in my car. ALL my systems work except for the signal lights. The wire from the fuse box that feeds the column switch is grounded somewhere and blows the fuse, hence no power to the Signal switch. Now that we know this...... 2. My Hazards work just fine. With that said theres two things to consider... first if the Hazards work, shouldnt my wires running to the front and rear signal lights be good to go? Not grounded. I suspect that the power feed line is grounded to negative some where instead. 3. If this is the case, cant I just run an alternate power wire to the column for the signal light switch? Would this work? Or option 2.... 4. Can I manually rig new wires to the signal lights (IF THEY ARE SHORTED ONLY) and run them to the column. Question is, how do I run them thru a flasher relay? Do they make a relay that left and right can attach to (NOT LIKE THE ONE THE Z HAS)? Is everybody following me on this? Lastly I need to know which wires are power and which are going to the signal lights. The Signal switch has two socket connectors. One is short with 4 mostly red wires. The second is longer and has mostly green wires (I ASSUME THESE GO TO THE SIGNAL LIGHTS VIA THE FLASHER). Can anyone chime in on that as well. Hey I am learning but I am very creative. I am replacing the entire electrical system at a later date but that will be amother project. I should have done it during my downtime before reassembly but....shouldve wouldve couldve. I guess that is enough food for thought thus far! Is PETE out there? Maybe I could get some of your electrical wisdom. Thanks for listening everyone.....Patiently awaiting any advise. A wiring diagram for the signal switch would help bunches.... CorZette Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Anonymous Posted March 30, 2003 Share Posted March 30, 2003 Flasher relays are basic to all cars and should each have three terminals. One for hot wire and one each for left and right bulb high side. Small thermal relays do the work when heated up by applied voltage. Since 12 volts is common to most cars, any such relay should work with any car. I stongly suggest that you isolate the short and learn something from that. As you well know, the fuses are blowing because the + is seeing direct ground somewhere between the fuse panel and one or both of the lights. I would get serious and do the following: 1. Because it is such a hassle to locate these things, buy a 12vdc. "Test Buzzer" or make one. Connect one side of it to any good 12vdc source and connect the other end to the fuse side going directly to the offending circuit. 2. Now, while the buzzer is wailing away, get under the hood/dashboard etc. and wiggle/disconnect wires until you get some results. 3. Once the immediate area of the problem is isolated, proceed with a patient and detailed inspection of that area and you will surely find the source of the problem. Because the buzzer won't blow under the shorting voltage, You can take your time with this method and really get down to business. When I tore down my Z, I found a one inch long bare spot on a wire in the main harness which runs along the frame twoard the front end. It had been rubbing on the frame to do this and being on the bottom of the harness it of course couldn't be seen, but if yours is an open harness like mine you can roll the harness in your fingers for an inspection. In old cars like this I have seen the hot wire in the bulb socket worn thru and grounding there so look sharp everywhere. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest BigWhyteDude Posted April 1, 2003 Share Posted April 1, 2003 i hate electrical problems man. I feel for you good luck with finding the short. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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