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HybridZ

Cutting fiberglass


DavyZ

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Well the time has come to cut and paste an airdam together. I'll be using what appears to be a ricer Honda Civic or Eclipse front end and using the pieces to bond onto a fiberglass Z airdam (this is with all crusty or junkyard parts, so don't get ballistic on me :D ) . I have plaster that I'll be using (note that it was Ed Roth's technique) to fill in the areas between and bring other areas out. The plaster of paris will help make a mold to use for a knock off for the real thing.

 

Soooo, this brings me to my basic questions:

 

1) Is there a special technique to cutting the fiberglass? For example, would tape along the cut edge help to minimize splintering?

 

2) Will nitrile gloves or latex gloves suffice?

 

3) Any cheap materials other then the usual ones I should be thinking of?

 

Note that this question is not a "how do I..." but just to get additional info. I still have to take pics of the Honda front end (at least that's what I think it is--or maybe an Eclipse? Who knows?) before I cut it up.

 

In case any are wondering, I'm doing this merely because I have not found many front ends to the Z that I particularly have fallen in love with. I do enjoy the simple front end, but in the quest for uniqueness, I am pursuing this idea. To make something esthetically pleasing, yet not garish or 'rice' will be the art of it all.

 

Davy

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Guest Phil1934

I use an air powered jig saw. Electric works too. Get chemical resistant gloves. Resin will dissolve latex gloves. Clean up with acetone. Put a layer of duct tape over the plaster. I did plaster to smooth out some mini tubs I laid up and it soaked into the plaster necessitating grinding it out. Don't worry about taping the edge, just wear eye protection and a dust mask as it gets messy. I laid up a roof and dressed it with a belt sander. Long sleeves a must for that sort of thing. Florist foam can also be used for a pattern.

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Man, thanks fot the advice! I had not thought about the plaster soaking up anything :roll: so I will pay attention to that. My idea was to 'wash it out' from the back of the mold....but how about just using some mold release compound? Not enough of a barrier? Hmmm.

 

Phil, thanks for bringing up the floral foam idea--Terry O used it on his car, but I think the plaster would be easy for me to work with (I anjoy clay and sculpting things) but a bit messier. I still have not thought of a good place for cleanup from all the white powder & sludge. Bathtub methinks?

 

Again, Phil, thanks for the help ;)

 

Davy

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Davy,

 

I have been making a new nose for the z and flares and nose cone for my track car. I used normal building spec foam that has been sanded and shureformed into shape. I have then been using Gib stoping plaster to smooth out the final shape. ( I think you might call Gib, sheet rock in the US.) Its has been working surprizingly well. All I have to do to take a mold of is seal it and then a mould release agent, gel coat....... You know the rest.

 

Anyway, make sure you get a sureform, you can then work the plaster while it is setting. If you use sand paper it will just clog or you will have to wait for a day or two.

 

Its looking good. Kind of like the new Aston Martin that has been in the car mags lately. I am just waiting for a rainy day do I cen finish the grill shape.

 

Douglas

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I might still have some of "stage 1". This really wasnt working out the way I wanted it so I am on "stage two" now. I dont have any photos of this newer design. The digital camera craped out a month ago as well. i might be able to take some stills and scan them. Worth a try anyway. I have just been looking at the photos of the g-nose cars. They have a mighty small radiator inlet so I might "adjust" mine a bit before I take photos.

 

Cheers

 

Douglas

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