j260z

that spirit garage car is my dream car... if you plan to create a set of flares like those i will bow to you.

looks fantastic! keep up the good work. i'm doing my project in the reverse order with the body being last. keep the pics coming. they are a great boost to keep me, and others, interested in our projects when it doesn't look like we are making any progress.

i've got two spares kicking around if you need one.

the race that needs to be flipped is on the wheel end.

i think the tvr cerbera speed 12 is a little over the top, but at the same time one hell of a mean looking car. http://www.supercars.net/Pics?viewCarPic=y&source=carGal&carID=1842&pgID=1&pID=397959

i had Ross at Modern Motorsports redrill my rear stub axles for the 5 x 4.5 and they were done well but i didn't like the look of them because the placement of the holes looked goofy. what i did was take them to a machine shop in town and had them weld on extra metal to the flat spots on the stubs and then machine them round. it cost me about $150 and now they look great. i think if you contacted Ross about the front hubs he could drill just about any bolt pattern into his aluminum front hubs and you could get a local machine shop to make your stub axles round, fill in the old stud holes and drill you a new bolt pattern. it may sound like a bit of work but i think it would have to be done that way because with the larger bolt pattern your stud holes would be that much closer to the edges of the square stub axle.

check out this site. this has to be the coolest new motor i've seen. http://www.angellabsllc.com/index.html 14" x 14", 32 cylinder, 3000 hp at 150 lbs!!!! as soon as they come into production sign me up!

if you are going to try to reuse the pins, you should double up the nuts on the end of the pin and tap on the end of the nut to avoid mushrooming the end of the pin. if you are lucky, and can get them out without damaging them, you should buff off any corrosion and cover them in anti sieze compound.

the 280zx is a totally different animal. the suspension is different and the stub axles are different also. modern motorsports sells a companion flange adaptor so you can run the cv's and the r200 diff but in my opinion, if you are going to go to that much trouble you should upgrade to the 300zxt cv's and get the companion flange adaptors and 280z stub axles.

i had one set on my 260 that required alot of heat and then drilling followed by heat and pounding and pounding... the next set i did was from a 76 280 and all it required was a couple of taps with a hammer and they fell out. it is a real crap shoot when i comes to replacing these things. the real point here is that you have to be a real z fan to endure the pain of the process. we really should have a symbol next to our icons that denotes whether we have replaced our spindle pins or not.

spotfitz got it right. it is called the steering coupler. when the origional coupler starts to wear out it can introduce alot more play into the steering wheel without actually turning the wheels.

with the setup you are looking at, it is not a question of if but when the parts will break. minimum you will have to swap out your stub axles to the beefier 280z axles. with that much power i wouldn't risk using the 240z stub axles because when one of them lets loose you'll end up replacing the axle on top of whatever damage you incurred when it broke.

that is almost identical to the setup i am working towards. did you have any issues with the install? looks great!

my point exactly!!

have you ever driven a z with the stock steering damper?

looks good. i like how you shortened up the tail. it doesn't droop as much as the real thing and looks a thousand times better. i think you are on the right track. if you could design a front end like that i would even think of buying a zx.

no one will notice the stripes at 60 mph!! the colour looks great. i really like the rear end with the light bezels painted body colour. you should feel proud of such a good job. i had to buy and fix my own cars when i was young and it was well worth it. i had no problems fixing anything on my cars whereas the kids who had their parents buy them cars couldn't even fill the engine with gas properly....

looks great. doesn't it feel good to have everything clean and rust free? did you coat the steering nuckles and if so did you have any problems with them fitting back together? i couldn't help but notice that you have some pretty bad pitting on your t/c rods. are you going to strengthen them before reinstalling?

i have the short rear drivers side quarter ,like in the top pic, sitting around in my basement. it has the usual nicks and marks from sitting around but is still unused. i could be convinced to sell it. PM me if anyone wants it.

good idea jeromio. i know what you mean about float. years ago i had my 260 up to 132 mph on the highway and the front wheels would touch down every 100 feet or so. not the kind of thing you want to be doing for long.

if you need a set of 280z stub axles give me a PM.

just remember that when you are playing with the distributor it is really easy to burn off an eyebrow or two if you are not careful!!! years ago i had a friend put the distributor in on my celica and shot flames 2 feet out of the carb.

very nice looking car. i never really liked the postion of the signal lights on the late 260z and 280z. but now i've seen your car i think it was a combination of those huge bumpers and the signal lights. it looks very clean and sharp not to mention 65 lbs is a great weight loss.

very nice work! i like the diff isolation idea.

phantaz, the threaded portion is an aluminum sleeve that slides over the strut tube (steel) and allows you to adjust your ride height. once the vehicle is on the ground and the vehicle weight is on the tube it shouldn't spin. rather than leaving it to chance people either put a bead of silicone on the perch or (a new one to me) screw the sleeve to the strut tube.