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fuel tank leak and corrosion


Guest zfan

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Guest zfan

My 1971 240Z has developed a slite fuel leak around the return line base and the fuel tank itself. I pulled the tank and while looking inside the tank I noticed some minor corrosion beginning.

 

Should I repair the tank or trash it? Is there a coating or liner that can be put/sprayed in the tank?

 

Also if I decide to install a fuel cell, do I need a fire wall between the tank and battery as well as passenger compartment?

If I can help it I would like to keep from getting the boot at the local 1/4 mile track.

 

Mike

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Guest Anonymous

Ya, zfan;

 

Gas tanks have a protective metallic coating at the beginning. When this starts to go those rust particles will surely find ther way into the carburetor unless you have a good line filter. The solution depends on your concern (and I suspect you know the answer already).

 

A heavy duty filter will do the job and leave the tank as is, or as mentioned you can use the goop to cover the rust. But if it's rusting then the whole inside should be sealed and that would be a real job with an automobile tank. This stuff was originally developed for motorcycle gas tanks. I wouldn't use this "Bandaid" unless you don't care that much.

 

Radiator shops can fix leaks and "Boil out" the innards in their tank but then all the inner coating would be gone and the goop would be mandatory. And everywhere the the torch burns the protective coating is lost.

 

Your questions about the battery and fuel cell seem strange, for if you are doing the 1/4 then their rules will have to be applied. Otherwise and personally, I would definitly fully enclose the battery in a leakproof wooden box.

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Guest 240hybrid

I would recommend the eastwood gas tank sealer kit recommended above. I used this on my 75 280 tank in about 3-4 hours to clean and seal then wait to cure, and am very pleased with the results. The kit comes with everything needed except for muriatic acid and the acetone. I guess they dont like shipping such liquids and can understand. One person can do the job, but I had my father help me when needed. Using proper gloves and face mask to protect against acid and fumes, you'll have a very well sealed tank that should hold up for another 25 years. I figure a repair shop will charge at least double the cost of doing it yourself, and then you know it was done right too.

The sealer is about the consistency of 10w-30 motor oil, so it should get in that small leak you have and seal it.

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