74Adam Posted October 7, 2005 Share Posted October 7, 2005 Thanks Phantom. This car is in really good condition and what I have seen so far is pretty tight, but I certainly haven't checked everything. What I am talking about on the tranny tunnel is the WHOLE THING. It isn't just heat coming through the gearshift hole (although I will look at that as well) you can run your hand along the whole length of the tunnel and it is pretty warm. The side of the seat adjacent to the tunnel is warm to the touch. Let me put it this way: If it were 30 degrees I bet I wouldn't need a heater. I have a 82 model tranny that has been completely rebuilt that I am planning on swapping in. The current tranny is the 78 5-speed. Does it naturally run hot? Maybe the bearings are wearing out? In any event, when I do the swap I am going to put some high temp heat shielding on the exterior side of the tranny tunnel and floor pans as well put synthetic fluid in the tranny and possibly insulate the exhaust. This should take care of alot. I also think that putting on a header wrap would help. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Phantom Posted October 7, 2005 Author Share Posted October 7, 2005 Personal experience was that my tunnel was as hot with the '83 5-spd as it was with the '77 4-spd. that I had in the car. It was also hot with the T56 which has synthetic fluid in it. Cure was a new, tightly screwed down tunnel seal and some serious insulation along the tunnel. Makes things cooler and also quieter. Are you changing over to a 3.90:1 R200 when you put the '82 5-spd in? If not you'll notice that the car will be more sluggish than with the '78 5-spd. THe '82 tranny has lower numerically 1st & 2nd gear ratios. 3rd & 4th are the same but I would seriously opt for the 3.90 R200. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
74Adam Posted October 7, 2005 Share Posted October 7, 2005 Oh yeah, I have the 3.90 R-200. Did you put insulation both on the exterior AND interior? This is the insulation I was thinking about using: http://www.designengineering.com/products.asp?m=sc&cid=7 What do you think? Kind of pricey but probably worth it. I figure to do the tunnel and floor pans would run a little under $300. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Phantom Posted October 7, 2005 Author Share Posted October 7, 2005 All mine was inside the cabin of the car. Not enough room on the other side with the T56. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RPMS Posted October 11, 2005 Share Posted October 11, 2005 One of the guys in the Cowtown Z club was telling me that he was experimenting with a late model Sentra blower motor with very impressive results. Maybe you can ask him yourself this Thursday? I think it was John (spotfitz) that I was talking to at the time. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
randy 77zt Posted October 12, 2005 Share Posted October 12, 2005 on my 77 i found a connector that had a voltage drop across it.if you put a good 12v source to the blower motor it will speed up some.gm uses relays on high speed blower setting to get 12v to blower motor.but more would be better.but if your new set-up isnt getting a good 12v supply you are wasting time. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
74Adam Posted October 12, 2005 Share Posted October 12, 2005 Ok guys, I got through with the motor swap and I made this post in the "ignition and electrical" forum. I had forgotten about this thread. -------------------------------------------------------------------------- Well, I just got done installing the new motor and thought I would post the results in case anyone is interested. First of all, on the 77 and 78 the housing opening must be ground out about 1/8" to accomodate the Honda fan, Apparently the earlier years don't require this. Maybe it would be possible to use the earlier housing, I don't know. Anyway, aside from this very tedious task everything went easy. I got the motor from a guy on Ebay that already had the wiring adapted (cue jokes...lol). It was a really clean job. Anyway, after all of that I fired it up in anticipation (there is always the fear in the back of your head that it won't work at all...lol) and it worked but I must say I am a little dissapointed. It is a noticeable upgrade, but it is far from dramatic. Considering the amount of time grinding down the metal takes, I don't know if I can recommend this upgrade. On the earlier models, maybe. Wish I could say it's like a hurricane compared to before, but it ain't. -------------------------------------------------------------------------- Ok, I emailed the seller (not angry, the motor is very nice) and got the following response: Adam: There is quite a lot of difference in the earlier years. One thing you might want to check is looking at some of your connectors. There is one near the transmission hump for passengers left leg/foot. It is a large connector, and prone to a lot of corrosion. Also check your air ducting and put a wrap of tape around duct joints. This will prevent air leaks/loss. This can make a big difference. Let me know what you find and there may be some further suggestions I can make. Thanks for your business. Randy, this makes me think your comment about not getting 12 volts is dead on. I bet I've got a bit of a loss. I hadn't though about running a relay but that is great idea. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Phantom Posted July 8, 2014 Author Share Posted July 8, 2014 (edited) Cured my AC blower problem. Still using the 37 year old original blower but moved from Texas to Washington. Edited July 8, 2014 by Phantom Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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