Guest the_dj Posted June 5, 2003 Share Posted June 5, 2003 I don't have much money, and I'm wondering if there's any way to install the CV's without the $205 adapters. They look wonderful, but it could take a long time for me to get that much extra $$. I have a 280Z so the mustache bar is already there. I managed to get the shafts for free from a friend in exchange for some extra parts of mine. Sam Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BRAD D Posted June 5, 2003 Share Posted June 5, 2003 not if it is a 280, a 240Z can use the companion flanges from a 280ZX in you install the 240Z dust seals. but the 280Z's will not bolt up to the ZX companions Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
brokebolt Posted June 6, 2003 Share Posted June 6, 2003 Go here, http://mywebpages.comcast.net/pparaska/index.html This guy has done his homework, he hangs out here too. The tech drawing is a bit complex for the average garage mehanic but rock solid info. I've done it and like it. I do think that you can use the 1980-84 Maxima companion flange from any RWD car in place of the 280ZXT ones, but not 100% as I have only handled them and never installed them. Mike Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest battg8r Posted September 4, 2003 Share Posted September 4, 2003 Ok, I tried the CV halfshaft swap from Pete's v8 Datsun 240z page. I took the drawings and photos along the correct parts to a local machine shop and had my 240 companion flanges converted to the cv companion flanges. Everything looked great until I tried to install on the car. The cv joints won't compress enough to get them inboard of the companion flanges. Also, the sway bar looks like it will be in the way. I got the r200 and cv shafts out of an '83 280zx 2+2 and no problem installing the r200. What should I do now? Thanks. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
brokebolt Posted September 4, 2003 Share Posted September 4, 2003 I did the stock parts mod version. I had the same issue with the shaft not compressing enough to get them installed. Do this, unbolt the transverse link from the transverse link supports. You may need/want to do the front and rear this makes it a bit easier. Next install the correct shaft with the correst side. After everything is bolted together on the CV than bolt the transverse link supports back on to the bottom of the car. Best of luck on the conversion. Mike Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest battg8r Posted September 4, 2003 Share Posted September 4, 2003 Thanks for the tip, I'll give it try. Is there a problem with swaybar/cv joint clearance? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
brokebolt Posted September 4, 2003 Share Posted September 4, 2003 Ya, I really should have addressed the sway bar issue. I didn't not have any issues with the sway bar clearing the new joints and companion flanges. My 1973 has sway bar mounts that go under the front side of the car, under the drive line but on top of the exhaust pipes. I've only seen in pictures the sway bar that goes to the rear of the differential. I don't see why there would be clearance issues but than again I haven't seen this type of mount in person. If clearance is an issue maybe using shorter rod end linkage on the sway bar to transverse links. This would shorted the distance from the sway bar end to the transverse link. Hopfully lowering the end enough to clear the CV assy. Again best of luck on this. Mike Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest battg8r Posted September 4, 2003 Share Posted September 4, 2003 Thanks for the help. I'll let you know how it turns out. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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