grumpyvette Posted June 7, 2003 Share Posted June 7, 2003 I got this question," hey whats wrong, my newly rebuilt engine turns overs so slowly it won,t fire up even with two cars and a charger junping the battery and its a new starter and battery? what do I check?" you left out THE MOST IMPORTANT INFO OF ALL. are the battery connections tight? are you getting fuel and spark? (in the correct amounts and at the correct time?) is the engine ignition timed correctly? have you tried a few shots of starter fluid? is the engine bye any chance 180 degrees out of time? or just slightly too far advanced? what does the voltage at the starter read? (durring cranking?) will the engine spin easily with no plugs installed? what are your valve train clearances piston to valve clearances rocker slot to rocker stud clearances retainer to valve guide clearances what were the piston ring to slot clearances? were the rings all checked individually for end gap in the cylinders they were used/installed in/ were the rings checked to make sure the correct side faced up, and the correct ring was in each groove? what were the back clearance on the rings? were the oil ring expanders carefully fitted for correct drag? were the oil ring scraper ring rails checked for end gap? spring bind height/total cam lift and remaining clearance valve lash/preload ? main bearing clearances? piston to bore clearances? ring end gap clearances? thrust bearing clearances what is the main bearing run-out clearance piston to head clearance? rod bolt to block clearances? what tq reading is necessay to spin the crank with no rods attached? did you check the block for a strait main cap alignment? what size journals ana what bearings? are the journals checked for finish and run-out/tapper? did you use moly lube to assemble? did you pre-lube before start-up? did the distributor gear fit the cam gear precisely? did you check the piston to piston pin bores for fit and clearance? did the piston pins to snap ring clearance seem overly tight? if they are pressed pins were they correctly matched and checked for free movement in the pistons? were the rods resized? checked for parrallel bores/were the rods strait? were the rods checked for length? was the rod to piston pin side clearance checked? whats the starter to flywheel gear clearance? is the pilot bearing to trans imput shaft clearance ok? is the front motor mount bolt to fuel pump pushrod clearance ok? did the fuel pump pushrod move easily/ are you possitive the pistons were installed with the correct valve relief in the correct location?(eiieeiie) were the pistons installed with the correct side facing forward/ did the head gasket overlap the bore? is there any coolent in the bores? what torque values were used on all fasteners/ were they the correct length and type bolts? were the bores honed with a torque plate in place? was the cylinder finish correct for the type rings used? was the oil pump itself checked for free spin and clearance AFTER THE PICK-UP WAS INSTALLED? were the valve to valve guide clearances checked? was the cam drive checked for free rotation and drag/ cam to timing cover clearance? cam journal to cam bearing clearances? was the cam journal run-out checked? were the spark plug threads of a installed spark plug extending into the combustion chamber? was the cam degreed in or just lined up useing factiory index marks? was the cam lobes/LSA/LIFT CHECKED? and are you useing a GEAR REDUCTION TYPE STARTER for EXTRA POWER or just a stock chevy starter? have you tried a differant starter? is the transmission in neutral? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Anonymous Posted June 7, 2003 Share Posted June 7, 2003 It looks like Grumpy has it well covered. I had a neighbor who had some friends over one night to help wrap up an engine and install it. The next day he hooked things up and tried to start it. It immediately locked up. After a while he pulled the pan and found a couple of beer cans!.....LOL! Seriously, with two battery's and a car jumping it, I would say YOU put the wrong insert, mains or both in there. You better hope so because otherwise that leaves the main caps like Grump says' or else (Shudder) the block is warped (but locked like that when cold it's not at all likely). Bring the thing over here where we can all take a look at it and have a good laugh when we take it apart!.....ha ha! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Anonymous Posted June 8, 2003 Share Posted June 8, 2003 DELETE Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Graeme Posted June 14, 2003 Share Posted June 14, 2003 Do the battery leads get hot when cranking? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.