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back pressure?


Guest De Schmaydee

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Guest De Schmaydee

.....o...i see what youre saying....and youre almost right about that (the turbo and exhaust puts back pressure on your valves)...but it isnt boost in the intercooler when the throttle plate is closed its pressure against the throttleplate and your compressor...its boost when its in your cylinders...of course you know all of that (and you knew what i was talkin' about when i wrote about it).

...... lj youre right about a lot of things ...'specially the part about the name callin' and gettin' pissed off.....now about the not knowin' what i'm doing...alot of that is true too insofar as knowing how all the systems interact and i'm not even pretending to know as much about 'em as you do.....

...what i do know is what it says in the instructions to perform this upgrade and i was told what had to be done by ben....i looked that over before i ever considered buying this thing to see if i could do it...

....no way in hell i could ever put in a tec3..... what i said in my previous post was "get someone to put it in" and thats what i was trying to get across...what i should have said was if i had to get someone else to put this thing in i could have gotten a better system and had someone else put it in.....

......i went through all of this w/ben...what needed to be done before i bought this thing and that is what has been done to this car.....

 

i put the resistors at the ecu on the wires going to the injs (ohmed them out) and swapped

2 and 5 w/each other....disconnected the the knock sensor and f-pump mod ... removed the afm and vcm...grounded the f-pump and cut the black wire at the f-pump relay and wired it to the 12v b&w wire then installed and wired maf....plugged the hose barb leftover from removing the vcm.....now at first i didnt have injs 2+5 swapped and lj helped me out w/ that and i got that straightened out....put the new program disk in the distributor...... put in all the new inj and modified the l-jet plugs to fit on the djet injectors then listened to each of them to make sure they were firing....is that correct? the only other thing done was i put a 3" pipe w/a 1.5" tee off of it for the bov (capped off the tee) and put turbonetics clamps on all of it..... retimed it (at 1k rpm)...now is that right?

.....whats gotten me pissed off w/the jwt deal is i went through all of this w/them and was told it was all i would have to do...thats been done and its not doing what it supposed to do...i know nobody said anything about having to mod the inj connectors.....or having to do anything else.....or having to know everything about every system on this car..... and was told i didnt have to thats and why i got it....

....now you guys dont like it when i talk bad about the box because i dont like it .....its not just the box i'm talking about.i'm talking just as much (prbly more) about what these people told me before i bought it...what it would take to put it in and what it would do after it was put in..... ........s

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Is your O2 sensor in the downpipe? If so, when the car is warmed up, check the voltage on it, it should be around.47 volts, if it is not, your TPS is not adjusted properly. A better way would be to find the wire at the ecu and back probe it and see what you get there.

 

What happens at idle is you are supposed to get a constant voltage number, but when the TPS is in the off idle position, it should make voltage fluctuations occur as the ecu adjusts the mixture to keep it close to 14.7 to 1. So you will see the voltage go up and down.

 

You also need to make sure you have no vaccuum leaks. It is so important I cannot stress that enough. I would also check your fuel pressure with a gauge, and make sure you are at 36 psi with no signal going to the fuel pressure regulator. How much vaccuum does the car pull when idling? I would expect to see 19 to 20 inches, if less , you probably have a leak.

 

I would set the timing to 20 degree's. One other thing I would do is clean the connections at the ecu and the plugs going into the ecu with brake clean.

 

Also while you are at it, make sure the chopper wheel in the Dizz doesn't have any trash in the little holes since it is optical.

 

Also make sure you have the breather tube on the top of the valve cover plumbed into the line in front of the turbo, and that the PCV is hooked up and working.

 

If after all of that, you still have problems then you need to get ahold of someone out there and see what they say. I will tell you upfront I think Ben is an idiot, but you probably need to talk to Jim or Clark. Jim is less pleasant then Clark, but either should be able to tell you what else to check. They are going to ask you to do just about everything I have listed, so it helps to be able to tell them what you have done, and what you found out.

 

I never had any stumbling problems.

 

One other thing, did you replace the o-rings in the intake when you replaced the injectors? I did, and if you didn't, that would be a good idea.

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Guest De Schmaydee

....very good info...and i really do appreciate it.

....i have an o2 in a custom down pipe havent gotten to check it yet..and in addition to what i put in my last post i also put on a new fuel rail (couldnt get the old one to fit w/o breaking it)...and i relocated the fpr.... theres also a chance i could have bumped the tps or throttle plate linkage .....and i need to see if its still closing all the way.....i have it timed to 20°btdc (but its @ 1k rpm ...cant get the idle down)....i'm pulling 20-22" vac @ idle.... replaced the breather hose a couple of weeks ago and its hooked up... i put in all new hardware o-rings and that other ring that goes around the inj w/the new injs....all of what you said is very good advice and i really do appreciate it....this thing is kickin' my ass....... thanks again... ...s

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I would say you got good vacuum, I would check the tps, although i cannot recite the proceedure. You need a voltmeter to do it, and any decent manual should show you the proceedure.

 

You need O2 info too. They will want that.

 

 

There is also a part number on your chip in the ecu, if you talk to clark, he will want that. It should be handwritten in pen.

 

Make sure you have the vaccuum port on the TB dealt with if yours has one, and I would also make sure all my ground connections on the harness are connected.

 

After that, sounds like a call is in order. Don't talk to Ben, he's an idiot. Talk to Jim or Clark.

 

It is probably nothing major, they may make a minor timing adjustment, thats all I ever had done when I got mine. Since you are so close to me ie, in tennessee, I would think my data would be good, and Clark would know what that is.

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Guest De Schmaydee

....just got through printing out the eccs part of the fsm to take out w/me tomorrow to get a fresh start on this thing....been raining up here last couple of days and given me time to cool a little...... never tested the tps but oughtta be able to w/the fsm....figured i'd check the tvs and make sure the throttleplate's fully closed while i'm at it......all of my "+"(i believe) wires for the injs were commoned in the harness not sure thats where they are supposed to be commoned or not.....since i swapped 2+5 though the rough idle is gone (its just high and i have the stumble).....but only when its cold.....when its warm it really does run passable (as long as i dont hook up the i.c. pipe).......hopefully i'll find something tomorrow....thanks again.... .s

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Guest De Schmaydee

.....checked the throttleplate,tps and fuel pressure all good....i replaced the tps anyway it had a crack in the case....ran another 12v to the air regulator....nothing... then had a revelation....my replacement aac is adjustable.....s.o.b. adjusted it....got it down to 750rpm (idles badly) but its down to 750....gonna retime it and see what i get....i feel a lot better about it.....s

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