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1971 240Z


Guest Anonymous

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Guest Anonymous

I have a 1971 240Z, first off it has massive rust problems. The chassis is extremely rusted out underneath the battery. The floorboards are about as supportive as tissue paper...jk... but they are very rusted out.

 

My main question is... What is the best way to repair rust damage? Buy a new frame, use a specific company etc.

 

Also, has anyone swapped Corvette Engines into the Z. I know people do Chevy 350's etc. My "dream" is popping the hood and seeing a corvette engine, that looks close to an original corvette (All the nice black shrouds etc). I just really love the clean corvette look under the hood of the later models.

 

I am looking to keep costs down, so I was wondering if it is best to purchase a used Corvette engine.

 

My other option is using a carborated beast and just buying a used gas guzzling monster.

 

I know I am asking alot, but anything people can offer on prices, recommendations, etc so that I can make an informed decision.

 

I am trying to work my way through all the posts here. This is a great board for Z's!

 

Thanks in Advance

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Marty,

My 2c here. Get another body. You will spend a serious amount of time chasing and repairing rust. See if you can find a good body to transfer all your stuff into. Trust me (and I'm sure others here will agree whole heartedly) start with a rust free body.

As for engines, several people have swapped in teh LT1 V8 (which I too am busy with). Mine's from a Z28, but the Vette ones are essentially the same. There are even a couple of true adventurers who are swapping in the LS1, which is a whole different story because it shares very little with the older Gen 1 and Gen 2 SBC V8s. Mounting is a huge effort from what I can gather.

 

Do a search on the questions you have and you will find a wealth of info on this forum on both of your questions. Also if you haven't already done so...buy the JTR swap manual from JagsThatRun.com.

 

HTH.

Tim

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I agree with Tim - get another body. I've just posted pictures of my project on the non-tech board. If you follow the link and use the scroll bar at the bottom of the page you can see some before and after pictures of the Z's rear end. It was alot, no wait,I mean ALOT of hard work to get it back to "rust free". the car has also had the following fixed bodywise ( major rust problem) : Floor pans, Frame rail, under the battery and dog legs. Now the only reason I did all this, was because I'm located in Denmark, and seriously, there is only about 4-5 240z's in the country - so finding another body - for me simply was not an option.

 

Just my 2 cents or - as I'm Danish, my 2 Kroner :D

 

Good luck,

 

cheers,

 

Meakin

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Guest Anonymous

Meakin,

 

Thanks for the website link, that is great.

 

Did you have to replace your front right frame rail? How much was it just for that rail if you did end up having to?

 

Thanks!

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Marty,

 

I'm sorry, I did not replace the front framerail with any parts from Zeddfindings - I got a local Body man to fabricate some instead. However I was in contact with Charlie regarding the price for 2 front frame rails, and I've just found the old email from him. Here is a part of the email from him :

"The front frame rails which extend from the radiator support back to and around the firewall, sell for $399 a pair Canadian. These are like the original and come with proper hole placement and support gussets. They do not include the tension arm cup that is attached to the outside of each. Once installed the floor frame support welds right into these"

 

Keep in mind that this is some time ago, So I don't know if the price still is the same. Keep in mind this is for 2 framerails - I do not know how much it would cost for one.

 

Hope it helps and again - good luck 2thumbs.gif

 

Cheers,

 

Meakin

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Guest Anonymous

I am posting a link to a Speedomotive engine complete for sale.

 

For a 71Z, do you think this is a good choice? I am happy with the 3,000 dollar range for a 450HP COMPLETE motor.

 

If you know of any better deals please let me know.

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Marty,

Just be careful with the price. Remember that you will need to add to the $3100:

Water pump,

electric fuel pump (mech won't work with JTR)

starter

Carb

air cleaner

flywheel/flexplate

damper

Alternator

and the list goes on and on and on.

Just keep the little things in mind because that is what kills you budget, not the big purchases.

Do a search on posts by Grumpyvette's member number. He has posted links to good crate motors many times. (1367)

Tim

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I personally would not use a 5.565 inch rod with that stroke crank. The connecting rod will have a large tranmission angle. My buddy is building a 383 and is using 6 inch H beam rods. They require a lot more grinding on the bottom of the cylinders for clearance, but will be better for high rpm's. I also do not like the use of an old Duntov 30/30 cam. Cam technology has advanced a great deal since then.

 

Just my 2 cents

 

DK

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