LT1 and t56 into 73' Z need LT1Z's TechHelp

[73speed]

I got a complete 94 corvette with 6spd tranny, and I now have a pissed off wife. So I really need your help, or a lawyer. My problem is that even after searching the site the information is kinda scarse for the LT1 swap, so, I know it is a lot to ask for but I would like info on the process of the LT1 swap. I would love to take the time to do it all slow, but I'm short on space and time now. I want to finish it in less than 30days, think it's possible?

 

here goes me being greedy : what motor mounts should I use?

what JTR parts should I buy?

will JTR tranny mount work with t56?

what radiator? will stock do?

what about VATS?

Does standalone mean no ECM?

What exaust manifolds or header?

Please Please add anything that I need to worry about, modify, buy, etc...

[Danno74Z]

I will help you out a little on some of your questions but I'm a little short on time myself today. I will talk about the items I know about and I’m sure other members will fill in the holes.

 

JTR Method? If your short on time GO THE JTR ROUTE the whole way as it truly the best method to install a small block Chevy engine fast. Since you are using a LT1 Vette engine all the accessories are on the drivers side which should make for an easier install for you verses the LT1 out of the Camaro etc. The JTR tranny mount will work with the T56 but some modifications are needed on the transmission tunnel.

 

What about VATS? Needs to be deleted from the computer so the engine will start. You can send the ECM out for reprogramming or do it yourself through a program called LT1 Edit.

 

Does standalone mean no ECM? No it doesn’t. Your ECM runs the engine only with a standalone engine harness that you build or have built from a vender. A standalone engine could theoretically could be dropped into any host car. Don’t forget your state emissions policy.

 

What exhaust manifolds or header? If I’m not mistaken those are center dump on a vette engine so you “should†be ok if they tuck in close to the block. A trial fit with the engine in the bay and in the correct setback position is the only way to tell if your going to have interference problems.

 

Well I need to run but some food for thought.

 

Danno74Z

LT1/T56

[Guest DRK]

My advice is to use the search function for info on installing the LT1. I was going to go this route, but now have decided to go with the LS1. Buy JTR book immediately and read a few times.

[Guest Anonymous]

The LT1 goes in like any other smallblock...it does have an extra motor mount hole on the pass side, but conventional small block mounts will bolt up. Just use the ones referenced in the JTR book. If you want to run shorty style headers, the Vette ones will probably work, as will any streetrod-style blockhugger header. Most aftermarket wiring kits such as Painless have a VATS delete module...check with your harness provider for this. You'll most likely have to switch to an F-body computer, preferably a 94-95 model. They're OBD1, and easier/cheaper to program, plus most aftermarket harnesses use this computer. You won't even have to change your knock sensor, since you car is already OBD1. There is a very helpful article on this site for a T56 swap, but unfortunately you have a ZF 6 speed, not a T56. T56 was F-body (and of course Viper) only until 97, when they started using a version of it in the Vette. JTR covers some stuff on the ZF, but IMHO you would be better off selling this transmission and buying an F-body T56. The ZF is bulkier, heavier, weaker, and has fewer service parts available than the T56. Plan on plenty of tunnel and floor surgery to get this monster in there. Check with Scott at http://www.speedautomotive.com

He deals in salvage 4th Gen F-body stuff, and is great to deal with. The original radiator is likely too small, but the 3rd Gen F-body one referenced by JTR will probably be sufficient.You will most likely have to change the accessory brackets(Vette stuff is all on the drivers side), but you'll probably just need an alternator and maybe an AC compressor anyway. I'm going with Street and Performance for mine,if I add AC later. For now I'll just fabricate an alternator bracket from earlier SBC parts. I have yet to do my own swap (still gathering parts), but I have been messing with LT1s since they were new, and will be glad to answer any questions you may have. I would suggest picking up the new issue of Car Craft; they did a great article on swapping an LT1 into a Malibu, and though the car is different the basics still apply. Read the Ramjet article too, there is some good stuff in there.

[73speed]

WELL seems I was a bit confused about the T56 tranny, I thought the vette had one not the zf6.

Well the thing is I have the whole car and my friend had just replaced the flywheel and cluth about $3k at the dealer last week. I don't think I can start looking for a T56, kinda low on feds, so my question is this, Can I take the entire Engine/ZF tranny combo and put it in my 73z? If it is just about the weight or its inferiority to the T56 I'm not really concerned since I don't plan on torturing the car. I did a search for zf6 cause I had seen somewhere someone had don it already, cant find that link now. Has anybody here used the zf6 successfully?

 

I hate to say this but, Why does everyone quote the JTR manual like the authority on z swaps?

I mean why do a lot of people just refer you to buying the manual instead of giving out advice based on personal experience, I thought thats what this forum was about,not JTR ads.

 

If it will be too dificult there will be a 73 Z for sale soon.

[Guest Anonymous]

I did it because I didn't have the manual in front of me, and because there is so much good information in it that anyone contemplating a Chevy swap into a Z car should get it. You'll still need the bracket they list (there are templates in the book if you'd rather make them than buy them), but the actual mount they reccomend is GM part # 3990332. I don't have any affiliation with JTR, and I doubt many others that post here do either, but I will say that purchase of their manual is the best $20 or so you'll spend on this swap.There are answers to questions you probably haven't yet thought of in that manual. As far as the ZF is concerned, it's plenty strong enough for a stock LT1...that wasn't my main reason for mentioning the T56 would be better. The T56 is rather bulky itself, but the ZF is even more so. I have seen it swapped into cars with much larger transmission tunnels than those in a Z car (Chevelles, Monte Carlo SS, etc), and even those required some hammerring and cutting. I'm not saying it won't fit, or that you can't modify the tunnel to make it fit, just that it is going to be harder than the T56. If you have good metalworking skills, the ZF should be easy for you. Maybe someone on this board has swapped a ZF and can elaborate.You might run an ad on one of the Corvette boards...you could probably sell the ZF for more than enough to buy a T56 (we're talking $1200-1500 complete). That would be my recommendation.

[ToplessZ]

Hello...wish I had all the knowledge these guys on the board have. Being new to the hybrid scene and as I am getting ready to do a swap of my own I can definately tell you that my jtr manual was and is probably the most important part. Note that many on this site have done other forms of this swap or have bought cars that were set up in a form other than the jtr setup and pretty much common sense will tell you that jtr is the best way to go. No one on here is advertising but I also know most people dont have time to quote a 100 page manual in a post this is partially why it is recommended. That and Jtr doesnt even sell the conversion parts in actuallity it is a company called stealth conversions that is just advertised in the back of the jtr manual. I highly recommend this book after reading my own copy and also recommend another book that is on their site www.jagsthatrun.com that is about tpi and efi swapping. Those 2 books are based on alot of personal experience. Good luck on your swap hope to see some pics. Thanks to all the wonderful guys on the forum that have helped me and countless others with our dumb questions Im sure I for one will have many more. This site is the absolute best.

[Guest Anonymous]

Originally posted by 73speed:

 

I hate to say this but, Why does everyone quote the JTR manual like the authority on z swaps?

I mean why do a lot of people just refer you to buying the manual instead of giving out advice based on personal experience, I thought thats what this forum was about,not JTR ads.

 

If it will be too dificult there will be a 73 Z for sale soon.

I don't think thats really the case. Understand that the same question your asking has been asked (and I kid you not) hundreds of times before. The answer is the same because there is few options. The JTR manual is still the ONLY complete guide on the swap. People get tired of writing the same thing, so they are sometimes refered to 'read' the archives and other times "Get the JTR manual" is the response, no one means anything by it, its just the only complete guide we currently have and even it is only a outline and not a hold you by the hand and tell you what to do next kinda thing, its still invaluable info.

 

I think you'll find people disagree and argue with the JTR design all the time so its not like we're 'advertising' for JTR. As for the parts being produced by another company, its my understanding 'Stealth' is just Mike Knells parts company, sure he subs it out and repackages stuff like the Neapco driveline adapter, you ever tried to bend 3/8" steel before in a press brake? He designed it and regardless whether he contracts it out or not, its the same company JTR.

 

Sorry if this came across sounding a bit miffed, I didn't mean it that way, but to call HybridZ a mouthpiece for JTR is just plain wrong, if someone uncovered a mount as cheap that worked better and was fully documented I'd be stepping over to meet them. As far as difficulty thats another reason we mention the book. Individuals will have to determine if they have the automotive background to do the swap. Mike Knell puts a small note saying some automotive repair abilities is required. This isn't rocket science but it does require a bit of skill or it'll be a project that soon finds its way to the corner of the garage and not completed. Oh well, good luck on your project, they truly are a fun car converted and worth the time.

 

Regards,

 

Lone

[Dan Juday]

Lone always manages to say it right. Nobody here owns stock in jtr. And, there are some mistakes in the books too, albeit, not many. As wonderful as this site is, it will not replace a book. Ever crawl under your Z with your monitor? Lots of grease and hand written notes on my copy.

 

Can you do it in 30 days? Not likely if you are like most of us, i.e., job, wife, limited funds.

 

First off get your priorities straight. Make up with your wife. Treat her better than you treat yourself, or the car. A marriage should last a lifetime. This car project, no matter how jazzed about it you are now, will someday mean very little to you.

 

If you fight with your wife over this Z project you will be satisfied with neither. Bring her into it and make it her project too and it will be a joy to both of you.

 

$20 for the marriage counseling. I accept paypal.

[Guest super280z]

Tunercat.com you're 80 dollar solution to all the PCM problems you might have. they hare down right the best software for the money. also get a hold of Andrew @ akm electronics and he can set you up with a cable for editing the PCM at you're PC instead of using a laptop. everything else should be bolt up with the exception of headers and AC. but since you're using the vette brackets, you might be able to pull off AC. use standard shorty's and you should be ok. im not too sure about the trans mount though im using a 200-4r so my experience is a little more bias to the A4. ooh yeah, you're going to need a re-worked fuel system too. good luck with the swap!