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LT1 fuel injection syst on your old Chevy Small Block...


Guest Anonymous

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Guest Anonymous

I got my hands on a complete injection system from a '95 Caprice 5.7L LT1 for $75.00 and plan to complete the conversion detailed at the link below. I already had a brand new 280 ZX external in line high pressure fuel pump from Nissan, and a brand new '87+ HEI distributor and remote thermostat housing for it...so I am ahead of the game.

I contacted John at http://www.lt1intake.com <http://www.lt1intake.com> asking what harness/ECM is best and he replied:

 

"I recommend the speed density ('90-92 F-bodies). Stay far away from the '85 wire harness and computer. All '86-89 harnesses are fine, they are MAF systems. If you don't already have a MAF sensor it won't be worth it since it's so expensive."

 

John will also re-program chips for you by your application.

 

This swap is actually featured on pages 54-58 of the August 2003 Popular Hot Rodding...or at this link if you don't have a copy handy http://www.popularhotrodding.com/tech/0803phr_beast/

 

The very last paragraph of the feature has me intrigued to say the least....

 

"Another option to look at is to use a set of stock LT1 cylinder heads on the traditional block. Some modifications to the head on the deck surface would be required, as the LT1 cylinder heads are different in this regard. Having said that, as LT1 heads are aluminum, flow fairly decent, and can sometimes be found for less than $300 used."Does anyone know if this is possible? This would make the installation much easier from a fabrication standpoint.

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Guest Anonymous

Mudge,

 

 

True......there are better heads out there, but not aluminum for $160.00 for the pair used :D . Plus these heads will bolt right up to my LT1 fuel injection!

 

I am only running a 287 CID so I don't need big valves or runners. :)

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I wonder what it would take to get the cooling to work right on the lt1 heads. The use the new reverse flow cooling but on a mild small block I think it would be a cost effective way to have a modern fuel injected setup that would be lighter than the cast iron vortec heads or similar. Someone with more brains than me post an opinion or pics or both. Thanks guys

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Guest Anonymous

I found a set of aluminum '95 Z28 heads CHEAP.. 8) ..WAY CHEAP for aluminum that is!

 

I know all about the fact that the LT1's are reverse flow, that is the determining factor here. I know for a fact that the LT1 heads will physically bolt on the old Small Block. I just need to figure out exactly what "modifications" are needed to make them work. Although work will need to be done to the heads; it will in turn make the installation of the injection system much easier from a fabrication standpoint..... I think it may very well be worth the work involved to modify them... :-D

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Mudge' date='

I am only running a 287 CID so I don't need big valves or runners. :)[/quote']

 

Great price, I got my last set for $240 shipped. Bingo on the cubes, for the larger 350-383-396-422-434 stuff, I'd get something else :D

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Guest Anonymous

John from LT1intake.com sent me the link below to an article done by Chevy High Performance a few years ago.

 

 

http://www.lt1intake.com/LT1_retrofit.htm

 

 

I have called the gentleman that was mentioned in this article, but have not gotten a return call just yet.

 

I am on my way to LT1 heads & Injection on a little "freaky" 287 SBC.

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Guest Perry

I just had my Lt1 heads off last night.

The block has an internal "elbow" coolant passage which directs coolant from the water pump into that big hole in the LT1 head that is being plugged in the how to article linked in the last post. The coolant seems to flow in the front of the block from the pump in the same manor as the older SBC's, then turns up into the head at the front of the engine, then through the head dropping into the block at varius coolant ports between and amongst the cylinders, then the remaining coolant flows through another large hole at the back of the head into the block. where/how it gets from the block to the rad I didn't notice. I think both rad hoses connect to the water pump so maybe there are 2 coolant holes in the block where the pump bolts on, one for supply to the head and one for return from the block(?). I thought to myself that in order to run higher compression on the street you could probably do something sililar with an old style block, heads and water pump by welding the water pump outlet shut and using a short external hose to redirect the water into a large port drilled into the front of the cylinder head. You would have to drill a return hole in the back of the block/head to return the water into the block and come up with a lower radiator hose connection by tapping a hole in the block somewhere (or maybe you could return water through the water pump housing if you put your plug in the right spot). A lot of messing around but I bet it could be done cheap and easy and you could experiment with high compression or boost on pump gas.

Of course I'm known for taking a sawzall/drill/etc to perfectly good parts in the pursuit of "makin 'em beder for nuthin" regularly.

Perry

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  • 2 weeks later...

This post and the one on the AC for LT1 have me a little confused.

 

If I put LT1 heads on an older small block, will I still be able to use the original accesory brackets, or do the LT1 heads have to be used with LT-1 accessory brackets? If that's the case, the low price for the heads seems to be offset by the price of all the new brackets needed.

 

If, on the other hand, the brackets from the old small block will still work with LT1 heads, why is it so expensive to get an AC bracket that works? Won't an old camaro bracket from a junkyard work to mount AC?

 

I am currently depbating between a TPI and an LT1. The LT1 gets points for being newer, more powerful, and having aluminum heads. It is also far more expensive, and the AC and speedometer issues (with the t56) add quite a bit to the cost.

 

The TPI would be far cheaper, and the t5 will run the speedo, I can keep the AC, and if I could add aluminum heads for $300, I think this would be the way to go.

 

I don't drag race, so I think the t5 will hold up to the kind of driving I do.

 

Thanks for your help!

Jeff E.

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