Guest Anonymous Posted July 2, 2003 Share Posted July 2, 2003 hey, im new to the v8 conversion and woul dlike to give it a shot... ive been reading up on the subect and decided that im gunna have one built for me with about 300 HP. (the 350 sbc) is a good tranny to go with the 700 r4? and to complete the conversion for the moving parts, what do i need concerning the driveshaft and rear end...obviously i need a driveshaft, but can i keep my R200 differentials? do i need to go with a posi rear end? im kind of a newbie on this topic and just reading some of the archives isnt answering all my questions, thanks brendan 79 280zx Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest greimann Posted July 2, 2003 Share Posted July 2, 2003 Welcome noob! The 700R4 is good if you want an automatic. So it the 200r4, and lighter. T5 is the way to go for a mild motor if you want a stick, if you can find one. You will need a custom driveshaft, but don't worry about that now, you will need to get the motor and trans in for that stage of the project. Keep your R200. Limited slip is nice, but not mandatory. A few ZX brothers have web sites including me. Loook at the link in my signature. Mr. 80LT1 also has one. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
80LS1T Posted July 2, 2003 Share Posted July 2, 2003 Yes I do! I am actually in the process of adding some pages. I am working on my exhaust page right now. Like Greimann said you will have to wait until you have the motor and tranny in before you get a driveshaft. I think my driveshaft was 23 1/4" with my LT1(350 Engine)/T56(6 speed manual tranny). If I were you I would get a better radiator or recore the one you have to a 4 core radiator. The R200 is a very strong rearend (atleast thats what everyone says...i think so too!). Posi is nice but Quafie is better. But the Quafie is very expensive....$1000-$1300! If you want to get an LSD get one from a 88'(or is it 87') 300ZXT. Oh and its not the big things that cost $$$ its all the little bolts and hoses and connects that really cost all the $$$, cause you never add all those costs up! You really get nickle and dimed to death when you are trying to get something to work for you swap and you cant seem to find that part you are looking for but you keep buying stuff that you think will work!.......no this hasn't happen to me .....YEAH RIGHT!!! Are you going carbed or EFI? Guy Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Anonymous Posted July 6, 2003 Share Posted July 6, 2003 wow, great weekend in dc! happy belated 4th to everyone.... okay id liek to go carbed but am REALLY in experienced with them. correct me if im wrong, but it would be less expensive as well as less confusing to go with the carbs anyways, right? but...my boss who happens to be a race car driver can have an engine built for me...a 350 althoguh it wont have a few items...such as the aluminum head and such--it also wont come with an exhaust manifold (which isnt a problem b/c of headers) and it wont come with an intake manifold which leaves my options wide open for carbs. ummmmm.....in the MSA catalog online it has driveshafts that will fit the 700 r4 to the datsun rear end, is this worth getting once i get the transmission and engine in? and yes, im going to go with the 700 r4...althogh i dont kno where to get one right at this moment. along with the topic of the radiator, im going to get a brand new one since the one ive got now is really goin down hill. i think im going to buy the enigne mount kit from msa aswell to make my life a little bit easier... gunna go do a bit more research here while i can, thanx for the input--i really appreciate it brendan Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest greimann Posted July 6, 2003 Share Posted July 6, 2003 A carb is less complicated than EFI, but there are complications with that as well. The stacking height of a carburetor and Ededbrock Performer manifold (not RPM) is very close to the hood. Heat buildup under the hood causes the fuel to boil out of the float bowls, stalling the motor. A TPI or LT1 EFI setup is reallly a better fit, and will be easier on the fuel. Don't rule out manifolds yet until you see how difficult it is to fit headers on the left side. If you are getting your mounts from MSA, then the driveshaft will probably work. If you engineer your own mounts, then wait until you get them installed before measuring for a driveshaft from a local shop. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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